Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the tips I completely forgot about the seatbelts! What is the purpose of the Velcro?Looking good. Pressure wash your seatbelts and run Velcro (hook side) through your top seatbelt rings.
Pressure washing the seatbelts made mine look like new.
I wasn't gonna say anything. Maybe he'd be better off with Uber.In the process of repairing your cruiser you wrecked your 4runner? Oh man that's a bad day, time for a metal bumper for the T4R i guess
A couple question for anyone who is moderately proficient at painting vehicles:
- I took the primer down to a wet 600 grit and then called it a night. I expect paint to get here Monday. Should I cut the primer down even further by wet sanding with 800, 1000, then maybe 1500 before painting? Or leave it at 600 or maybe take it to 800 to leave the paint with some texture to “grab” onto?
- Does anyone have any recommendations for blenders? I was looking at SprayMax for a clear blender but I’m unsure what to do with the paint besides feather the edges.
Really appreciate the input!! I’ll probably leave it at the 600 it’s at right now. But yes, the entire quarter panel will be prepped up to the roof line and down to the lip of the fender, and also from taillight to passenger rear door. Yeah tape lines are my worst enemy right now, but now that I’ve done all the little spot repairs with filler & primer I can go back over everything including the surrounding area on that panel with a Scotch-Brite pad.600 is plenty fine enough. I did 400 on my last few jobs.
When you go to paint, you're going to have the entire panels unmasked and scuffed for base/clear, right? Because you should. Your smaller mask areas are fine for prep work, but when it comes time to do the base coat and clear, you dont want any overspray hitting the tape line on a panel. That'll leave a terrible line you'll never blend well.
If you're going to spray a panel at all, leave the entire thing unmasked and just mask adjacent panels, or at least leave enough unmasked so that you'll never touch the tape line while spraying/blending. Don't underestimate overspray. It may seem counterproductive to leave so much unmasked and to prep so much perfectly good paint,, but it makes a world of difference in the end and doesn't really consume extra time.
Once your repair area is covered with base, feather the edges/blend area and then proceed to clear. Clear the whole panel or at least well beyond the repair area. If you dont do the whole panel, you'll feather the edges very, very lightly with the blender.
The blender I use is Spray Max 1K Spot Blender 368 0093. Like this: Amazon.com: U.S. Chemical & Plastics 1K SPOT Blender (USC-3680093): Kitchen & Dining
Good luck! I'm excited to see how it turns out!
A Lamborghini HuracanWhat's hiding under cover?
Hey I’ll take any and all 0.02 you got! Thanks for the tips. I have been thinking about removing the door handles I’ve just been hesitant since I’ve never done that before and don’t really know how complex that process is. Can’t be too bad can it? I assume just remove the inner door panel and there should be some obvious nuts to loosen and linkage & wires to disconnect?Here's my .02 from 20 years in the body shop. Unbolt the Door handles, and remove the window moldings, this will make it easy to mask off, you can also unbolt the side glass pretty easily, you're already almost there with all you've removed from the interior.
You are better off not having any "edges" for the clear to build up, try to hide the clear edges in the jambs and crevices that aren't exposed -