Repainting Damaged Quarter Panel; Input Needed!! (1 Viewer)

[TheForger]

Back in March of 2018 I had a distracted driving incident where I wasn't paying attention and ended up veering off the road sideswiping a mile marker sign on the shoulder. I clipped the mirror which thankfully did not break off and instead folded in like it is designed to do; however, it did shatter the mirror glass and then continued to scrape down the side of the truck digging in the deepest when it reached the passenger quarter panel. I immediately replaced the mirror glass since that was a priority, but quickly realized that I had no interest or care to fix the ~6" long deep scratch on the quarter panel.

Fast forward to today and I am considering repairing it myself. I've already ordered the (1B1) Champagne Pearl paint from Automotive TouchUp, as well as a can of their High Gloss Clear Coat. I ordered both in their aerosol forms to make my life easier since I don't have a pneumatic paint gun or other fancy equipment.

Now I am looking for some tips, tricks, and opinions (especially from those who are familiar with this type of work on 2-stage paint) on my repair method that I briefly thought out. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated! I've outlined the steps that I thought made sense below:

1. Wash, dry, clay bar, & dry polish the entire quarter panel with a wool pad on a DA buffer to prep for sanding
2. Since the scratch is so deep, I was thinking about starting out wet sanding with 200 grit in the area surrounding it to get rid of the lose chips and to feather the edges as much as I can. Then, progressively move up to finer grits (400, 600, 800, 1000, etc...) always wet sanding
3. Thankfully there are no dents within the scratch so Bondo/glazing putty seems like it would be an unnecessary (correct me if I'm wrong)
4. Use a green Scotch-Brite pad to wet-scuff the area outside of the region where I sanded near the scratch in steps 1 & 2
5. After all the wet sanding & scuffing is complete, I will thoroughly clean the panel again using a microfiber rag soaked with acetone or 91% alcohol
6. Back tape the area where I plan to repaint and clear coat. This is where I run into some uncertainty and have a few questions:
   • Will I have to repaint and clear the entire quarter panel just to fix this one scratch?
   • What if I just taped off and wet sanded/painted/cleared the area I outlined in blue? I specified that area because the tape lines would follow the faint body line that is just below the pinstripe (obviously the pinstripe and TRD sticker will be removed) and would span from hatch to rear door
7. 
8. Tack cloth the area for final prep before paint
9. Begin spraying the base coat over the prepped area. I am thinking two coats will be sufficient but I guess we'll see what happens when we get to that point. This brings up a couple more questions
   • Should I wet sand between each base coat? If so what grit should I use? 1000? 2000??
   • I've always warmed up aerosol paint cans beforehand by leaving them in a bucket of very warm water for about 15min before spraying. Would this be beneficial for me to do with the base coat?
10. After allowing the base coats to cure for 24+hrs, begin spraying the clear coat. I'm thinking maybe 2 coats also, but once again we'll see what happens when we get there
    • I've also warmed up clear coats the same way before spraying. Should I stick to my routine of leaving it in a bucket of warm water before using it?
    • Should I wet sand between each coat? If so what grits should I use?
    • Should I remove all masking tape shortly after spraying?
11. After allowing the clear coat to cure for 72+hrs, begin with cutting compound
    • What cutting compound do you recommend? I was thinking Meguiar's Mirror Glaze M105 to start, but I've also been looking at their Mirror Glaze Diamond Cut Compound 2.0 #85. Do I need a cutting compound so aggressive, or could I get by with their Medium-Cut Cleaner #1 and then move on to their Fine-Cut Cleaner #2?
12. After finished with cutting I will begin polishing
    • Currently looking at Meguiars Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish M205, would this be a good choice?
    • Should I do a final polish with something like their Machine Glaze? Or just stop at the M205 and finish off with a wool buffing pad?

We'll see how this goes. I will appreciate any help or advice!

 

[MongooseGA]

I don't have any advice to offer but I am anxious to see how this goes. Best of luck to you.

 

[sr5pickup]

Look into a clear coat blender, this will help blend the edges of the new clear to the original, it may be pretty noticeable if you don't. I personally have never tried it, I've always just did the entire panel. When your taping things up try rolling the edge of the tape or leave the inside edge uptaped this way you don't have a defined tape line, it will aid in blending. There are some YouTube vids on using the blender and taping methods.

You might also consider getting some panels to test on to make sure the metallic paint goes on evenly so you don't "tiger stripe" it or darken it in the repair area.

 

[TheForger]

I don't have any advice to offer but I am anxious to see how this goes. Best of luck to you.

Thanks! I'm just as anxious as you are, I'm not exactly a 'pro' at this although I have done a bumper or two

Look into a clear coat blender, this will help blend the edges of the new clear to the original, it may be pretty noticeable if you don't. I personally have never tried it, I've always just did the entire panel. When your taping things up try rolling the edge of the tape or leave the inside edge uptaped this way you don't have a defined tape line, it will aid in blending. There are some YouTube vids on using the blender and taping methods.

You might also consider getting some panels to test on to make sure the metallic paint goes on evenly so you don't "tiger stripe" it or darken it in the repair area.

That's a great tip on the taping technique I'll definitely follow that thanks!

 

[TheForger]

These are notes I've made after doing a bit more research and they are more for my personal records so when it's time to start I can go back and read them, but feel free to critique as you wish. I will be constantly adding and revising them.

• I will probably start with a sanding wheel on my Dremel just to knock down the edges of the scratch since it's so abrupt (not sure if that's the right word for it or not) and to get those small chips of paint off that are left behind. Then I will follow up with probably 200 grit to start feathering the edges out and work my way up to 400. This will most likely be done dry as opposed to what I stated in the steps in the first post
• I will most likely Scotch-Brite the whole section that I outlined in blue in the above pic. I will need to find a way to remove the trim at the bottom of the rear vent window - this will allow my work area to remain between body lines and be less noticeable since I really don't want to redo the entire quarter panel up to the roof. I will feather the edges outward to about the edges of the red oval in the pic below
• I've heard a lot about 2K primers so I might look more into using that after I'm completely done sanding. Also, final sanding before base coat should be done in 400-600 grit
• Only prime the area that has exposed metal; use something to concentrate the spray such as a hole cut in a piece of cardboard (this will avoid getting primer in unwanted areas)
• Dry sand the panel & scratch, wet sand primer, don't sand between coats of base, wet sand & polish final coat of clear after letting it cure at least 24hrs. No need to wait 24hrs before applying clear
• Tack cloth should ONLY be used during the sanding, priming, and base coat stages. Once you apply the clear you don't want to use the tack cloth anymore
• First coat of base should be VERY light (similar to when you use plastidip). Proceeding coats can be gradually thicker. I will be using one of those trigger grip attachments for aerosol sprays which has proved to be very helpful in the past
• 2 coats of clear is usually sufficient, however, 3 allows for more freedom during the polishing stage so 3 it will be

 

[suprarx7nut]

I can't respond as deeply as I'd like right now, but here are some quick thoughts.

1. That is likely to need filler, or at least glaze, IMO. It takes very, very little surface variance to look terrible in the final product. Count on using filler and/or glaze and blocking it. Buy a DuraBlock or similar and the corresponding sandpaper of 80/150/300 grits or something similar to that.

2. Use filler primer. Stuff from a can of Rustoleum at Autozone is probably fine. This primes (obviously), but also acts as a final filler to correct any remaining variations.

3. I'd use a sealer if you can find an aerosol can of it. This is like a final primer layer and seals moisture out more effectively than any other layer in a paint job.

4. Base coat: no sanding between coats. Only Tack cloth wipe down. They will have very specific instructions on how to apply base. Stick to the instructions as precisely as you can. They'll define any can prep and time between coats.

5. Clear normally goes on right after base. There's two very different time periods when it should be applied (generally). The first time period is quickly after spraying. You wait long enough for most VOCs to have come out of the paint, but before the curing has stopped. This allows the clear to bond chemically with the base. The second period is anytime after it has cured. This sometimes requires sanding, but I'm not sure about your clear. Check their instructions. If you see instructions that say "apply top coats within an hour or after 24 hours" that's what they're talking about.

6. Blending. I'd suggest using a 1k blender. I have some and have used it with great success. It's really neat. Clean and tape off the entire panel (the whole damn thing), but know you won't touch most of it with any paint or clear. Prime, base and clear in progressively larger areas around the repair, keeping them as small as you can. Your last step is to add the blender in light mists around the edges of your final clear coat. This chemically melts the clears together and makes the transition much less noticeable. It's a bit of an art form, but it's pretty easy to see if you're doing it right as you apply.

 

[97 AZ LC]

You don't say how long you're keeping the truck but lacquer clear is good for ease of application but not so good for longevity. SprayMax 2k clear would hold up better over the long term. SprayMax also makes a good aerosol 2k primer and a good aerosol blender, though any blender should work fine. I believe they are all on Amazon, eBay, etc.

 

[TheForger]

I can't respond as deeply as I'd like right now, but here are some quick thoughts.

1. That is likely to need filler, or at least glaze, IMO. It takes very, very little surface variance to look terrible in the final product. Count on using filler and/or glaze and blocking it. Buy a DuraBlock or similar and the corresponding sandpaper of 80/150/300 grits or something similar to that.

2. Use filler primer. Stuff from a can of Rustoleum at Autozone is probably fine. This primes (obviously), but also acts as a final filler to correct any remaining variations.

3. I'd use a sealer if you can find an aerosol can of it. This is like a final primer layer and seals moisture out more effectively than any other layer in a paint job.

4. Base coat: no sanding between coats. Only Tack cloth wipe down. They will have very specific instructions on how to apply base. Stick to the instructions as precisely as you can. They'll define any can prep and time between coats.

5. Clear normally goes on right after base. There's two very different time periods when it should be applied (generally). The first time period is quickly after spraying. You wait long enough for most VOCs to have come out of the paint, but before the curing has stopped. This allows the clear to bond chemically with the base. The second period is anytime after it has cured. This sometimes requires sanding, but I'm not sure about your clear. Check their instructions. If you see instructions that say "apply top coats within an hour or after 24 hours" that's what they're talking about.

6. Blending. I'd suggest using a 1k blender. I have some and have used it with great success. It's really neat. Clean and tape off the entire panel (the whole damn thing), but know you won't touch most of it with any paint or clear. Prime, base and clear in progressively larger areas around the repair, keeping them as small as you can. Your last step is to add the blender in light mists around the edges of your final clear coat. This chemically melts the clears together and makes the transition much less noticeable. It's a bit of an art form, but it's pretty easy to see if you're doing it right as you apply.

1. I wasn’t sure if it did or not but now that I think more about it you’re probably right. I already have some 3M body filler and glazing putty so I will most likely bust that out when the time comes
2. Good point on the ‘filler’ primer, I was originally thinking about just a standard sandable primer but I will definitely look into that
3. I will also look into getting a sealer - another good idea!
4. I’ve used this Automotive TouchUp paint before on a friends bumper that I hit and didn’t want to file an insurance claim for so I fixed it myself. Had great success following the provided instructions to a T
5. Now that I’ve thought more about it I will most likely be applying the clear soon after the final layer of base coat, as opposed to waiting 24hrs
6. I never even knew that blender spray was a thing so thank you very much for that tip! I’ve watched a few Youtube videos (4 to be exact so basically I’m a pro now) and they all say the same thing about starting small and working your way larger.

You don't say how long you're keeping the truck but lacquer clear is good for ease of application but not so good for longevity. SprayMax 2k clear would hold up better over the long term. SprayMax also makes a good aerosol 2k primer and a good aerosol blender, though any blender should work fine. I believe they are all on Amazon, eBay, etc.

This is my personal vehicle so I’m keeping it until the frame twists like a pretzel, she’s my baby lol. As far as the clear goes, you make a valid point regarding lacquer vs urethane. As a matter of fact that same Automotive TouchUp company sells the exact product you are referring to. I will look into changing my order to include that urethane clear instead of the lacquer. Another positive to the urethane is it makes me see funny colors and feel like I’m at Woodstock during the 70’s

This is exactly what I was looking for fellas, keep the awesome tips and advice coming!

 

[MongooseGA]

Man... If you were at Woodstock in the '70s, you were so high you missed the whole damn show!

 

[TXLX100]

Honestly man, if it were my truck I’d take a lot of time and do a simple touch up where it’s damaged and see if you can live with it. You can always wipe off and start over.

I just can’t see how it won’t look like a huge touched up spot with the stated approach. Light colors very tough to fix like that. Or remove the stripe and get a bigger TRD sticker. Good luck!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Honestly man, if it were my truck I’d take a lot of time and do a simple touch up where it’s damaged and see if you can live with it. You can always wipe off and start over.

I just can’t see how it won’t look like a huge touched up spot with the stated approach. Light colors very tough to fix like that. Or remove the stripe and get a bigger TRD sticker. Good luck!

I like this idea, actually. A touch up bottle and a fine brush might do a great job considering how much easier it would be. Blending can be a big job and if you screw it up, it's going to look a lot worse than it started. If you want it really "fixed" though, touch up won't do it.

 

[97 AZ LC]

One of the challenges of the consulting business is "scope creep". A project starts small with well defined objectives and then the client keeps slowly expanding the scope until it's a big project - great unless you're working on a fixed fee. Coincidentally "scope creep" also describes my touch up paint career. You start with a small repair, then you sand it and it gets bigger, then you put on some body putty, sand it, and it gets bigger, then you primer it and it gets bigger, then you basecoat it and it gets bigger, then you clear it and it gets even bigger, until it ends up being like 50 times the size of the original area. Aerosol cans have pretty big fan patterns really and they explode at the surface. And you've got to feather edges at every stage to get a good result.

You've got to be pretty darn good to do good spot repairs on metallic paint. It's hard, especially getting the metal flakes to lay down properly with an aerosol can. If the orientation of the metal flakes isn't right, the color match won't be right. Of course you have no chance for a metallic color match using a touch up brush. Non-metallic paints are way better for touch up. I have vowed many times never to buy another metallic paint car but for some reason I keep doing it.

Not trying to scare you but it's hard to get a good repair on a highly visible panel like that. If you really want to learn how to do it, go for it. I add too that an air brush can be your friend. A one inch or so spray pattern can help to reduce scope creep.

 

[Brentok]

Honestly man, if it were my truck I’d take a lot of time and do a simple touch up where it’s damaged and see if you can live with it. You can always wipe off and start over.

I just can’t see how it won’t look like a huge touched up spot with the stated approach. Light colors very tough to fix like that. Or remove the stripe and get a bigger TRD sticker. Good luck!

+1

Based on my experience with attempting these kinds of fixes, I'd vote for simple touch up with brush. Probably lots of coats and then some compounding. With my skills anyway, neither would look good -- but the touch up brush method would look as good as the other with a lot less work. Another option is to find a specialist detailer/ touch up guy through a used car lot. Some of those folks can do amazing things.

 

[aging fleet]

Simple route would be my path too.

If metal is exposed, I'd use a small brush to touch those spots up with a few coats of epoxy primer then wet sand. Then a few coats of touch up wet sanding between coats. Once dry, I'd do a final sand/polish then call it a day.

Just pulling the pinstripe would make the whole thing less noticeable.

 

[LongHaulCruiser]

Don't do it. Results will be terrible.

 

[TheForger]

Screw it, progress has begun

Removed the pinstripe on both sides. Went from this

To this

Started sanding and feathering

 

[TheForger]

Body filler & glazing putty on

Took my 4Runner to run some errands and ended up crushing the bumper on a concrete pillar in a parking lot so that’s cool Called it quits for the day, will pick up with filler primer later on this week and then begin paint.

I’m taking this process slow, for everyone saying it’ll look like s*** no hard feelings but I think you’re wrong. I’m not looking for perfect just something better than what it was. And judging by how it currently looks I think it’ll come out really nice. I really appreciate all the input everyone has given! Keep it coming, all tips and tricks are very helpful.

 

[FxFormat]

Body filler & glazing putty on

View attachment 2061600

Took my 4Runner to run some errands and ended up crushing the bumper on a concrete pillar in a parking lot so that’s cool Called it quits for the day, will pick up with filler primer later on this week and then begin paint.

View attachment 2061601

I’m taking this process slow, for everyone saying it’ll look like s*** no hard feelings but I think you’re wrong. I’m not looking for perfect just something better than what it was. And judging by how it currently looks I think it’ll come out really nice. I really appreciate all the input everyone has given! Keep it coming, all tips and tricks are very helpful.

In the process of repairing your cruiser you wrecked your 4runner? Oh man that's a bad day, time for a metal bumper for the T4R i guess

 

[TheForger]

In the process of repairing your cruiser you wrecked your 4runner? Oh man that's a bad day, time for a metal bumper for the T4R i guess

When it rains it pours am I right?? Yeah the low visibility caused by the high hood scoop didn’t allow me to see that pillar. Also you can see in the background every other pillar has a light pole attached to it except the one I decided to park in front of. Went to go get in my car after leaving the store, put it in drive thinking I was all clear in front of me, next thing I hear is the horrendous sound of crunching plastic against concrete. Not my proudest moment for sure!

 

[TheForger]

On a side note I did pull the seats and clean them, and also pulled the front carpet and shampooed it. Everything feels, smells, and looks much better now. Also gave me a chance to clean the metal underneath the carpet. Also replaced the shift indicator plate for the transmission shifter. I know I know....it looks like a rats nest under my console. I will be cleaning up all the wiring at some point in the future.

Old shift indicator has seen 19yrs of sun, items scraping across it, and general everyday abuse

New one looks much better!

This is the best leather cleaner that I’ve come across to date. IMHO it’s better than leatherique, Meguairs, Lexol, etc...Very pricey but man does it work well!