New member, asking for input

[scubar]

Lots of great information here at IH8MUD and I hope to add to the body of knowledge as I learn about the 2001 LX470 recently purchased. It will become my wife's daily driver as the AHC still works and I'll get to use it for some overlanding with my sons who have their own rigs. I'll be doing all of the scheduled maintenance in the manual as it's close to 270K miles, timing belt and water pump were last done at 213K. Additional maintenance priorities include replacing heater coolant T's with metal ones and related hoses, replacing rusted parking brake bell crank assemblies, and getting the front seats recovered (to keep my wife happy). Although the truck runs great, others here have mentioned the importance of checking sparkplugs for looseness so I'll be replacing them along with the coils.

Any suggestions you may have on additional things to do while I'm getting the scheduled maintenance items done will be appreciated!

 

[Mike NXP]

Sweet looking ride.... I've never seen the ARB bumper without the center support up top like that.

Nope it sounds like you're on the right track for keeping up with maintenance. Probably don't even need to do the timing belt since it hasn't been over 90k since last serviced....

The spark plug panic is a bit over rated but nothing wrong with diving in and getting them swapped out along with coils....Go easy removing and installing the plugs , and don't use anti-seize on the plug threads

I don't know much about AHC maintenance but I suspect there is some fluid change type stuff that you could consider

You can also consider going through all fluids like front and rear diff + transfer case to get it all freshened up.

 

[scubar]

Sweet looking ride.... I've never seen the ARB bumper without the center support up top like that.

Nope it sounds like you're on the right track for keeping up with maintenance. Probably don't even need to do the timing belt since it hasn't been over 90k since last serviced....

The spark plug panic is a bit over rated but nothing wrong with diving in and getting them swapped out along with coils....Go easy removing and installing the plugs , and don't use anti-seize on the plug threads

I don't know much about AHC maintenance but I suspect there is some fluid change type stuff that you could consider

You can also consider going through all fluids like front and rear diff + transfer case to get it all freshened up.

Thanks Mike, the ARB bumper was installed by the seller and I understand it needed to have the center cut out to enable the engine lid to open and it helps one access the engine bay for service. I expect to do the timing belt along with the other recommended items around 300K. Thanks for the input on anti-seize on plug threads, seems that's controversial but I favor the concept that OEMs would specify that it be done if it was needed. The first flush of AHC fluid is scheduled at 60K and then every 30K after so it's on the 270K list. Couldn't find any requirement for when the diff and xfer case fluids should be changed so I'll also do them as part of the 270K service. Got my work cut-out for me! Thanks again for your input!

 

[Coin]

The top didn’t need to be cut, the bumper just needed to be mounted a touch lower and forward. Interesting choice to cut it.

 

[2001LC]

Welcome!

I would not put anti-seize on spark plugs threads. If you do you must reduce torque 20%. You must then, also retorque often. Or risk plugs freezing in, as combustion gasses cook the anti-seize in threads. Retoque head cover bolts to 54 INCH-lbf while in there.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

I replace all 55 qts of fluids. i.e. oil, gear lube, ATF, AHC, coolant, wiper washer & brake fluid

01LX need coolant flush sooner of 30K or 2 years. With Toy LL (red) and distilled water 50/50. Personally I just replace Heater T's with OEM plastic. Only replacing the first 90 degree hot side (driver side, in RHD) hose coming up from rear water bypass joint. I keep all factory clamps on. I only replace additional hoses, if needed (damaged or swollen). Swollen hoses, is a sign of overheating. I replace thermostat (jiggle valve up) and rad cap. I burp air over 3 days of heating and cooling cycles.

I start with, cleaning all 3 radiators fins. While washing, I'd test fan clutch.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check fan belt, its pulleys and fan bracket.

I flush brake fluid, using only Toyota brake fluid. I also make sure bleeders are dry and add a squirt of WD-40 before capping.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'd inspect power steering reservoirs condition of screen and flush fluid with Mobil 1 ATF.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would check:

• Wheel bearings for any play.
• Front drive shaft (AKA FDS, AKA CV) for serviceability and weeps at boot clamps.
• Ball joints & TRE and their boots.
• Stabilizer bushings and links.
• Consider R&R rear coil (springs) w/OEM Toyota AHC coils and adding 30mm space on top of them. Make sure Height adjust have not been moved from factory setting. Which then, the front-end should be lower than rear-end, by at least 3/4" (AKA: stink bug look. AKA: rake).

Make sure to have the 1 skid in place and the round radiator drain cover in. They help protect the alternator from road water. 100 series, alternator should handle water well, but they do not.

That should keep you busy for awhile. Look over my master thread for helpful tips and procedures.

 

[Rhetoric]

I also think the "needs metal heater tees" is overblown. The factory tees last quite a while and are cheap / easy to swap.

The issue I have with the metal stuff is there are usually then small leaks that need to be addressed as folks either use worm drive clamps that loosen or the factory clamps and hoses don't fit with the metal tees.

If your wife is good at keeping an eye on coolant temp / checking for leaks regularly, then do what you will. But I just roll with factory stuff and do that PM when I'd do a 90k timing belt service.

 

[FJFOOL]

Welcome, nice looking truck !

 

[scubar]

Welcome!

I would not put anti-seize on spark plugs threads. If you do you must reduce torque 20%. You must then, also retorque often. Or risk plugs freezing in, as combustion gasses cook the anti-seize in threads. Retoque head cover bolts to 54 INCH-lbf while in there.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

I replace all 55 qts of fluids. i.e. oil, gear lube, ATF, AHC, coolant, wiper washer & brake fluid

01LX need coolant flush sooner of 30K or 2 years. With Toy LL (red) and distilled water 50/50. Personally I just replace Heater T's with OEM plastic. Only replacing the first 90 degree hot side (driver side, in RHD) hose coming up from rear water bypass joint. I keep all factory clamps on. I only replace additional hoses, if needed (damaged or swollen). Swollen hoses, is a sign of overheating. I replace thermostat (jiggle valve up) and rad cap. I burp air over 3 days of heating and cooling cycles.

I start with, cleaning all 3 radiators fins. While washing, I'd test fan clutch.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check fan belt, its pulleys and fan bracket.

I flush brake fluid, using only Toyota brake fluid. I also make sure bleeders are dry and add a squirt of WD-40 before capping.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'd inspect power steering reservoirs condition of screen and flush fluid with Mobil 1 ATF.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would check:

• Wheel bearings for any play.
• Front drive shaft (AKA FDS, AKA CV) for serviceability and weeps at boot clamps.
• Ball joints & TRE and their boots.
• Stabilizer bushings and links.
• Consider R&R rear coil (springs) w/OEM Toyota AHC coils and adding 30mm space on top of them. Make sure Height adjust have not been moved from factory setting. Which then, the front-end should be lower than rear-end, by at least 3/4" (AKA: stink bug look. AKA: rake).

Make sure to have the 1 skid in place and the round radiator drain cover in. They help protect the alternator from road water. 100 series, alternator should handle water well, but they do not.

That should keep you busy for awhile. Look over my master thread for helpful tips and procedures.

Thanks for all the good info and I'll be sure to check out your master thread! I especially like when you clarify why various points are important such as why anti-seize isn't good for sparkplugs.