OK, makes sense.
I imagine one side at a time to prevent some interesting gyrations....
I imagine one side at a time to prevent some interesting gyrations....
Repackin' the Birf' (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rogue
- Start date
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Thanks B-
That's what I was thinking of. I booked marked (as I should have the first time
)
I certainly appreciate the info and support.
I just put in my OME springs last week, I was a little timid, but as you know, it turned out to be a pretty simple job.
So now I am ready to tack the Birf's, think I'll get the starter contacts, and new silicone PHH, many many
's and spend the week in the garage!!
That's what I was thinking of. I booked marked (as I should have the first time
)I certainly appreciate the info and support.
I just put in my OME springs last week, I was a little timid, but as you know, it turned out to be a pretty simple job.
So now I am ready to tack the Birf's, think I'll get the starter contacts, and new silicone PHH, many many
's and spend the week in the garage!!
Byron,
Give us a heads up before you start any of those projects. We'll be here for you!
-B-
Give us a heads up before you start any of those projects. We'll be here for you!
-B-
- Thread starter
- #24
So, problems have arisen like in every other project I have undertaken with this truck.
First, it seems as though a tire shop or stealership made a boo boo earlier in the trucks life and fixed it booty style. The lower caliper mounting bolt was larger than the upper one on the PS and stripped out all of the threads holding it in. It seems as though somebody stripped it out before and just used a bigger bolt to fill the hole.
Second, the axle retainer nuts(the 2 with the lock washer in between) were completely loose inside the hub. Problem?
Third, The bottom of the PS knuckle is quite worn. I wish I could get a picture but the camera is out of town. It is just in front of the bearing at the bottom of the cavity. Is this normal?
I hope I made these problems clear enough to understand. I am getting frustrated... ???
First, it seems as though a tire shop or stealership made a boo boo earlier in the trucks life and fixed it booty style. The lower caliper mounting bolt was larger than the upper one on the PS and stripped out all of the threads holding it in. It seems as though somebody stripped it out before and just used a bigger bolt to fill the hole.
Second, the axle retainer nuts(the 2 with the lock washer in between) were completely loose inside the hub. Problem?
Third, The bottom of the PS knuckle is quite worn. I wish I could get a picture but the camera is out of town. It is just in front of the bearing at the bottom of the cavity. Is this normal?
I hope I made these problems clear enough to understand. I am getting frustrated... ???
Rogue,
IIRC the Cruiser has been in the family since new? If so, GET THE SERVICE RECORDS and look for the scumbag that had it apart. If you can backtrack it at least you can vent even if they tell you to piss-off.(sorry, bad word) The only way that I know of to safely fix the caliper issue is to replace the knuckle, 43211-60120 list is $224.41 :tear: As that is what keeps you from hitting things I don't know of a viable alternative to fix it. I am open to suggestions from the board.
On the wear issue, where exactly is it worn? Could you elaborate please?
Loose wheel bearing nuts are a problem if they have allowed the bearings to move around on the spindle. Does the spindle show wear, particularly on the bottom, where the bearings ride? If it were mine, I would replace the wheel bearings on the side that was loose. Also I would replace the tab washer that goes against the outer bearing. I would also replace the spindle if it has enough of a ridge worn into it to make the bearing loose on it. I know you don't want to hear this and I derive no pleasure from saying it. I invite our friends to pitch in here to see if there are "alternative" repairs or opinions about how "bad" it really is.
 an
IIRC the Cruiser has been in the family since new? If so, GET THE SERVICE RECORDS and look for the scumbag that had it apart. If you can backtrack it at least you can vent even if they tell you to piss-off.(sorry, bad word) The only way that I know of to safely fix the caliper issue is to replace the knuckle, 43211-60120 list is $224.41 :tear: As that is what keeps you from hitting things I don't know of a viable alternative to fix it. I am open to suggestions from the board.
On the wear issue, where exactly is it worn? Could you elaborate please?
Loose wheel bearing nuts are a problem if they have allowed the bearings to move around on the spindle. Does the spindle show wear, particularly on the bottom, where the bearings ride? If it were mine, I would replace the wheel bearings on the side that was loose. Also I would replace the tab washer that goes against the outer bearing. I would also replace the spindle if it has enough of a ridge worn into it to make the bearing loose on it. I know you don't want to hear this and I derive no pleasure from saying it. I invite our friends to pitch in here to see if there are "alternative" repairs or opinions about how "bad" it really is.
 
an
Does yours look like the picture? It looks "normal" to me.
I'm heading out the door to go home right now. When I get home I'll dig out my old front housing and look there. I can't remember if there are machining marks there. I'll know in about an hour.
I'm heading out the door to go home right now. When I get home I'll dig out my old front housing and look there. I can't remember if there are machining marks there. I'll know in about an hour.
I think that is normal. I think that is where the housing is machined to allow for removal of the birf.
Were the bearing retaining nuts loose with play or just loose like were not very tight? The inner nut should not be all that tight, the bearing should have been pre-loaded, then backed off and retightened to not much. The spec is 72-120 INCH pounds breakaway torque on the hub.
If there was in and out play, there is a problem and bearings and spindles should be well inspected. It is easy to do it wrong if you don't have the proper socket for the big retaining nuts.
Was the caliper bolt helicoiled or tapped over and a good quality bolt used? If so, it ain't right, but that doesn't mean it's dangerous.
For a whole lot less than the cost of a new knuckle you can have a professional inspect it. However, if you are the kind that will not be able to sleep at night, you might as well get it fixed. I wonder if it would be any cheaper to have the hole welded in and retapped? Or get on car-part.com and look for a used one. Normally they don't go bad or wear out. A used one might be just as good as a new. Unless of course you get it from C-dan, then new is way better.
Were the bearing retaining nuts loose with play or just loose like were not very tight? The inner nut should not be all that tight, the bearing should have been pre-loaded, then backed off and retightened to not much. The spec is 72-120 INCH pounds breakaway torque on the hub.
If there was in and out play, there is a problem and bearings and spindles should be well inspected. It is easy to do it wrong if you don't have the proper socket for the big retaining nuts.
Was the caliper bolt helicoiled or tapped over and a good quality bolt used? If so, it ain't right, but that doesn't mean it's dangerous.
For a whole lot less than the cost of a new knuckle you can have a professional inspect it. However, if you are the kind that will not be able to sleep at night, you might as well get it fixed. I wonder if it would be any cheaper to have the hole welded in and retapped? Or get on car-part.com and look for a used one. Normally they don't go bad or wear out. A used one might be just as good as a new. Unless of course you get it from C-dan, then new is way better.
Rogue - let me know if you need a knuckle. I just picked up a used front axle and have some spare bits. Can help you cheap if you need help.
BTW, looks ok to me if it looks like that. (if I remember correctly that is )
)
Rogue,
Just looked at my old front housing.(BTW anybody need an 80 non-locker front axle housing? 8)) There are machining marks in the area indicated. I agree with Gumby, normal.
I further agree with Gumby regarding repair of "the hole" and bearing inspection, ETC. Maybe I should have just said "ditto".
Todd, should there be any special precautions in regards to "welding" the hole and re-tapping? Certainly, orientation of the hole is critical, as well as tapping correctly. What about the metalurgy (sp?) issues arising from heating the knuckle up in the welding process?
todd, I also appreciate the kind words. (what is yer paypal #?)
 an
Just looked at my old front housing.(BTW anybody need an 80 non-locker front axle housing? 8)) There are machining marks in the area indicated. I agree with Gumby, normal.
I further agree with Gumby regarding repair of "the hole" and bearing inspection, ETC. Maybe I should have just said "ditto".
Todd, should there be any special precautions in regards to "welding" the hole and re-tapping? Certainly, orientation of the hole is critical, as well as tapping correctly. What about the metalurgy (sp?) issues arising from heating the knuckle up in the welding process?
todd, I also appreciate the kind words. (what is yer paypal #?)
 
an
Junk,
Is your spare housing from an ABS vehicle? If so, Rogue has a donor.............
Is your spare housing from an ABS vehicle? If so, Rogue has a donor.............
I don't know about the metalurgy. tapping the hole might be tricky too. I would definately take it to a skilled machinist to have it done. Actually, I would take Junk up on his offer. That sounds like the cheapest route if the bolt was booty fabbed and needs to be fixed.
Shoot c-dan. if we paypalled you a nickle for every time you gave us a part number my local guy couldn't find if his life depended on it, your dogs would be eatin' like kings.
Shoot c-dan. if we paypalled you a nickle for every time you gave us a part number my local guy couldn't find if his life depended on it, your dogs would be eatin' like kings.
Todd,
I DO NOT need a fat bird dog, they are not worth a pinch of S**t in the field. :G I want Berny to "find the birds" so I can, well, here goes, SHOOT 'EM.(Man, I hope that there are no P.E.T.A. folks here) On the other hand, it would be counter-productive to starve him. :G
Middle of the road is good for me..........
I DO NOT need a fat bird dog, they are not worth a pinch of S**t in the field. :G I want Berny to "find the birds" so I can, well, here goes, SHOOT 'EM.(Man, I hope that there are no P.E.T.A. folks here) On the other hand, it would be counter-productive to starve him. :G
Middle of the road is good for me..........
No prob dude, glad to help.
- Thread starter
- #37
Okay. The knuckel is off and ready to be cleaned in the morning. The hole was definately stripped out and re drilled/tapped. I wonder if this means that my caliper was also drilled.  ang shop monkeys go screwing up my truck.
Dan,
If I find out who did it (which is unlikely) and they do tell me to piss off, I will be pissing on them. (not such a bad word in this situation)
ang shop monkeys go screwing up my truck.Dan,
If I find out who did it (which is unlikely) and they do tell me to piss off, I will be pissing on them. (not such a bad word in this situation)
Rogue - axle just showed up today and it's NOT FROM AN 80
Called them and they're sending the correct one, but it won't get to my house for another week
So, unless you can wait 2 weeks not much else I can do. It is supposed to be from an ABS 97 FZJ80.
I swear if one more vendor screws me I'm going totally junkola. I'm still waiting for this scumbag south of Chicago to refund me my $$$$ for some stuff. GRRRRRR
So, unless you can wait 2 weeks
not much else I can do. It is supposed to be from an ABS 97 FZJ80.I swear if one more vendor screws me I'm going totally junkola. I'm still waiting for this scumbag south of Chicago to refund me my $$$$ for some stuff. GRRRRRR
- Thread starter
- #39
Hopefully my last question before complete re-assembly tomorrow...
When putting the cage and star back into the bell, what orientation does it have? The cage is what I am most unsure about. In the FSM it shows illustrations of a non-80 series birf so it is tough to understand. On the cage there is one side with a flat lip that is ~3mm, and one that tapers all the way. I am thinking the flat side faces out of the bell.  oes this make sense? Am I correct?
Thanks all.
When putting the cage and star back into the bell, what orientation does it have? The cage is what I am most unsure about. In the FSM it shows illustrations of a non-80 series birf so it is tough to understand. On the cage there is one side with a flat lip that is ~3mm, and one that tapers all the way. I am thinking the flat side faces out of the bell.  
oes this make sense? Am I correct?Thanks all.
Rogue,
>> the FSM it shows illustrations of a non-80 series birf <<
Very astute young man, very astute! It took me hours to figure that out.
The wide flat surface of the outer cage is the equivalent of what the diagram refers to as "wide." As you have noted, these are different surfaces so the term "wide" doesn't help in figuring it out.
There isn't a "protruding end" of the inner race. The "protruding end" is the part of the inner race that is "fatter." It is very hard to describe and I don't have a picture other than a hand drawn picture that I made in my FSM. Robbie said he didn't think it can be put together wrong. I disproved this statement :G but the movement in the CV didn't "feel" right when assembled wrong and it was much too hard to put together. It's not real easy anyway, but putting it together *wrong* is even more difficult.
Let me know if you have more questions. I have one on the bench right now and can take some pics if you think it will help you. Probably have to be at lunch tomorrow or tomorrow evening.
-B-
>> the FSM it shows illustrations of a non-80 series birf <<
Very astute young man, very astute! It took me hours to figure that out.
The wide flat surface of the outer cage is the equivalent of what the diagram refers to as "wide." As you have noted, these are different surfaces so the term "wide" doesn't help in figuring it out.
There isn't a "protruding end" of the inner race. The "protruding end" is the part of the inner race that is "fatter." It is very hard to describe and I don't have a picture other than a hand drawn picture that I made in my FSM. Robbie said he didn't think it can be put together wrong. I disproved this statement :G but the movement in the CV didn't "feel" right when assembled wrong and it was much too hard to put together. It's not real easy anyway, but putting it together *wrong* is even more difficult.
Let me know if you have more questions. I have one on the bench right now and can take some pics if you think it will help you. Probably have to be at lunch tomorrow or tomorrow evening.
-B-
