Repackin' the Birf'
- Thread starter Rogue
- Start date
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Rogue,
Good job!
I'm sure you will wheel and sleep easier knowing the job was done and done right. Plus it gives you the knowledge to assist someone on the trail or get yourself out of a jam if necessary.
-B-
Good job!
I'm sure you will wheel and sleep easier knowing the job was done and done right. Plus it gives you the knowledge to assist someone on the trail or get yourself out of a jam if necessary.
-B-
Just finished doing both sides of the axle last night; new knuckles, re-use wheel bearing option. (I replaced the starter contacts while under there also)
Rogue-
Thanks for getting my thinking about this and realizing it was neede quickly with 114k.
CDan & B-
Thanks for your advice and direction regarding parts etc.
Jim P-
Thanks for your write up posted here on IHMUD, I couldn't have done it without it.
The only thing I have to add to other the other information out there is that a 2 1/8" socket will work in place of the 54mm. They are readily available at Sears $22 I think.
Any thing to look out for the next few days or weeks (other than leaks) to make sure everything is okay?
Rogue-
Thanks for getting my thinking about this and realizing it was neede quickly with 114k.
CDan & B-
Thanks for your advice and direction regarding parts etc.
Jim P-
Thanks for your write up posted here on IHMUD, I couldn't have done it without it.
The only thing I have to add to other the other information out there is that a 2 1/8" socket will work in place of the 54mm. They are readily available at Sears $22 I think.
Any thing to look out for the next few days or weeks (other than leaks) to make sure everything is okay?
Check the lower steering arm/trunion cap nuts in a few days to make sure they are not backing out. I have seen that happen(rarely). Usually it happens when the studs loosen in the knuckle when it is taken apart and they are not tightened before re-assembly.
Dan
Dan
Byron,
>> Any thing to look out for the next few days or <<
>> weeks (other than leaks) to make sure everything is okay? <<
Excellent question!
In addition to what C-Dan said, check the wheel bearings by raising a wheel and grabbing the tyre top and bottom and give it a good shake like you were trying to take off the wheel. If you feel play then re-do the wheel bearing pre-load. I had one get loose after the repack and I've heard several others that had the same thing happen.
Retorque the wheel lugs after 50 miles.
Check the torque on the brake calipers in a few weeks. I haven't had a problem but there have been several reports where these bolts have backed out after removal. It's ugly if this happens so be safe and hit them with the torque wrench in a few weeks.
-B-
>> Any thing to look out for the next few days or <<
>> weeks (other than leaks) to make sure everything is okay? <<
Excellent question!
In addition to what C-Dan said, check the wheel bearings by raising a wheel and grabbing the tyre top and bottom and give it a good shake like you were trying to take off the wheel. If you feel play then re-do the wheel bearing pre-load. I had one get loose after the repack and I've heard several others that had the same thing happen.
Retorque the wheel lugs after 50 miles.
Check the torque on the brake calipers in a few weeks. I haven't had a problem but there have been several reports where these bolts have backed out after removal. It's ugly if this happens so be safe and hit them with the torque wrench in a few weeks.
-B-
One other question. Is there a torque setting for the six little bolts that hold the rear gaskets in place (pardon the use of non-technical description)? Mine seemed to be pretty fragile, I broke to off, fortunately I was able to get them out without messing up the threads.
Byron,
If you're talking about the small bolts that hold the 2-piece metal plate that mounts to the rear of the knuckle housing and holds on the wipers... then yes, they have a torque setting. I don't have the FSM handy but it is definitely a small setting, something like 15 ft/lb.
Somebody with the FSM handy???
-B-
If you're talking about the small bolts that hold the 2-piece metal plate that mounts to the rear of the knuckle housing and holds on the wipers... then yes, they have a torque setting. I don't have the FSM handy but it is definitely a small setting, something like 15 ft/lb.
Somebody with the FSM handy???
-B-
Yup, those are the ones.
Byron......STOP.....15 lbft will snap them off faster than you can say ****
It is 48 INCH LBS......(4 lbft)
It is 48 INCH LBS......(4 lbft)
Jomama
Lucideye
I've a Birfield/Front Axle rebuild question regarding all the parts, but I posted it here originally http://www.ih8mud.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=vendor;action=display;num=1051734436.
Basically if you buy the allprooffroad knuckle kit, what other parts are needed if you intend to repack the birf, are there other seals bearing not covered in this knuckle kit?
thanks
:givemebeer:
Basically if you buy the allprooffroad knuckle kit, what other parts are needed if you intend to repack the birf, are there other seals bearing not covered in this knuckle kit?
thanks
:givemebeer:
- Thread starter
- #53
So, about a week after the repack and side swapping the birfs I have a loud click from the DS. It is much louder than the previous clicking from the PS, but maybe it is just because it is closer to me now. The click happens after making a hard left turn.
I filled the knuckles with two tubes of moly, so they aren't dry for sure.
What do you think? :stupid:
I filled the knuckles with two tubes of moly, so they aren't dry for sure.
What do you think? :stupid:
- Thread starter
- #54
That kit looks like it has everything that I had minus the wheel bearings and the new knuckle.
The AllPro kit includes new trunnion bearings. The only problem is that they may not be OEM or equivalent bearings. The price of that kit undercuts Toyotas rebuild kit by a lot. You could buy that kit and OEM bearings for the same cost as the Toyota kit. BTW, the Toyota kit has no bearings included.
Rogue,
>> So, about a week after the repack and side <<
>> swapping the birfs I have a loud click from the DS. <<
Did you notice any abnormal wear inside the birfield? You did the right thing by taking them apart for a good cleaning and repack. I'm wondering if there were any types of grooving in the walls where the balls swivel?
I would drive it a month or two and see if the noise gets better. My thinking is that the joint might need some time to develop new wear patterns since you swapped sides. This is just a guess though.
-B-
>> So, about a week after the repack and side <<
>> swapping the birfs I have a loud click from the DS. <<
Did you notice any abnormal wear inside the birfield? You did the right thing by taking them apart for a good cleaning and repack. I'm wondering if there were any types of grooving in the walls where the balls swivel?
I would drive it a month or two and see if the noise gets better. My thinking is that the joint might need some time to develop new wear patterns since you swapped sides. This is just a guess though.
-B-
 
id you clean with a solvent? In other applications this can give similar issues until the grease completely settles in. Believe it or not you can have dry spots from residual solvent. I personally always clean with a lubricant such as a light oil. You'd be surprised how well it works.
id you clean with a solvent? In other applications this can give similar issues until the grease completely settles in. Believe it or not you can have dry spots from residual solvent. I personally always clean with a lubricant such as a light oil. You'd be surprised how well it works.
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
I got the OTC 54mm axle nut socket (they make the SST's) at the toolwarehouse...can't beat the price.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6612.html
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6612.html
