Removing the intake manifold for cleaning (1 Viewer)

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Jan 14, 2012
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Vacaville, CA
Good evening MUD gurus,

As my rabbit hole of replacing all coolant hoses led me to replace all EGR components i’m left at the intake manifold.

Is there an easy way to do so. I did watch a video on YouTube and learned a good piece of advice on ensuring you pull it off carefully so you don’t drop the followers that line up the top half On to the bottom half into the head.

Yes I am getting the P0401 code but the truck intermittently but it wasn’t running poorly. I purchased all major OEM parts and vacuum hose as well.
-valve
-modulator
-VSV
-pipe, nut and do-hicky that seals the pipe to the valve.
-plenty of hose

Where I’m left now is I still need to clean the port in the intake at very least. I doubt it should be cleaned while on the truck?

Is there any other check valves etc I should replace while I’m in there. I’ve already replaced all coolant hoses

Thanks in advance MUD gurus
 
Good evening MUD gurus,

As my rabbit hole of replacing all coolant hoses led me to replace all EGR components i’m left at the intake manifold.

Is there an easy way to do so. I did watch a video on YouTube and learned a good piece of advice on ensuring you pull it off carefully so you don’t drop the followers that line up the top half On to the bottom half into the head.

Yes I am getting the P0401 code but the truck intermittently but it wasn’t running poorly. I purchased all major OEM parts and vacuum hose as well.
-valve
-modulator
-VSV
-pipe, nut and do-hicky that seals the pipe to the valve.
-plenty of hose

Where I’m left now is I still need to clean the port in the intake at very least. I doubt it should be cleaned while on the truck?

Is there any other check valves etc I should replace while I’m in there. I’ve already replaced all coolant hoses

Thanks in advance MUD gurus
Are you talking about cleaning the vacuum line that comes out of the intake kind of by the brake booster or the actual egr port by the throttle body?
 
Good evening MUD gurus,

As my rabbit hole of replacing all coolant hoses led me to replace all EGR components i’m left at the intake manifold.

Is there an easy way to do so. I did watch a video on YouTube and learned a good piece of advice on ensuring you pull it off carefully so you don’t drop the followers that line up the top half On to the bottom half into the head.

Yes I am getting the P0401 code but the truck intermittently but it wasn’t running poorly. I purchased all major OEM parts and vacuum hose as well.
-valve
-modulator
-VSV
-pipe, nut and do-hicky that seals the pipe to the valve.
-plenty of hose

Where I’m left now is I still need to clean the port in the intake at very least. I doubt it should be cleaned while on the truck?

Is there any other check valves etc I should replace while I’m in there. I’ve already replaced all coolant hoses

Thanks in advance MUD gurus
I'm no guru, but it's Friday night.

"What's going on here?"

Are you splitting the intake manifold or removing the entire manifold from the block?
Not following the 'followers' mention.
 
I'm no guru, but it's Friday night.

"What's going on here?"

Are you splitting the intake manifold or removing the entire manifold from the block?
Not following the 'followers' mention.
Just splitting it. I’d like to clean the upper half entirely. Presumably the truck may be marginally smoother etc etc…as a preventive measure. I’ll post a pick tomorrow and maybe you guys can decide if it’s necessary.
 
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I’ve cleaned the throttle body
Are you talking about cleaning the vacuum line that comes out of the intake kind of by the brake booster or the actual egr port by the throttle body?
no, I’ve already cleaned the throttle body. I meant the the port on the manifold for the EGR. I know that should be cleaned. Just wondering if the remaining upper half should be as well?

18BF9CAD-4571-424D-A3B9-D5B0AF3AC858.jpeg

A little gas and a nylon brush made quick work of it.
 
I’ve cleaned the throttle body

no, I’ve already cleaned the throttle body. I meant the the port on the manifold for the EGR. I know that should be cleaned. Just wondering if the remaining upper half should be as well?

View attachment 2807694
A little gas and a nylon brush made quick work of it.

I haven't ever seen a clogged egr port in the intake, and I have cleaned some nasty manifolds. That wouldn't have anything to do with making it run smoother either. the egr only opens at cruise rpm's and low load.

Every time I have an egr code, its because of the vac line the passes though the intake was clogged (the one by the brake booster)

If you do pull the upper intake to clean it, do yourself a favor and clean up the casting radius inside of the throttle body housing. I removed about 1/2-3/4" of material, much better transition for the #1 and #6

2581F86C-007E-4AF1-AD82-F9F758151CE2.jpeg


F4A7E71F-C2E7-485C-89A9-370EBC627A85.jpeg


You can see the vacuum line nipple in this picture, between runners 5 and 6. Make sure you clean that out if you haven't already.


92DF9EC7-6DF9-499E-8396-2226B4D35DCF.jpeg
 
I’m pretty sure the location dowels in the lower are press-fit.
If not, a little JB weld could fix that.

As for the lower intake, I did myself a big favor & cut the casting that the entire wiring loom runs thru & smoothed both runner tubes - no I can pop the lower intake w/o all the hassle of unplugging EVERYTHING.

It seemed odd to some when I did it, but I would do it to any subsequent 80.

I ran both the upper & lower intakes out to work where we have a boiling temp pressure washer (‘hotsie’ in industry term) - even soaking engine degreaser prior still left that tan residue, so the hotsie made the runner tubes spotless.
 
My EGR port was completely clogged.
The carbon buildup on the intake runners is unsightly but likely has zero effect on performance. I soaked my upper intake half in solvent-based de-carb. Don't used anything water based, if its strong enough to deal with that level of carbon build up it's going to be corrosive to the aluminum. Don't you have to pull the upper half to do the egr and charcoal can vacuum lines either way?

In the end, after softening with the degreaser, a 0 degree pressure washer tip blew all the chunks out of the egr manifold tube.
 
I'm not sure that cleaning the 'runners' themselves makes any noticeable difference, but I can't stand to put dirty parts back on my vehicle, so I did them anyway.

Upper Int1.jpg
 
I put my upper intake in a plastic tub along with a gallon of Simple Green and enough hot water to submerge it. I'd periodically scrub it with a bristle brush. That was the only thing that got out the compacted carbon from the vacuum passages.

It soaked for around three or four hours. I know that Simple Green will eventually damage aluminum, but it didn't harm my intake in that time.
 
I’m pretty sure the location dowels in the lower are press-fit.
If not, a little JB weld could fix that.

As for the lower intake, I did myself a big favor & cut the casting that the entire wiring loom runs thru & smoothed both runner tubes - no I can pop the lower intake w/o all the hassle of unplugging EVERYTHING.

It seemed odd to some when I did it, but I would do it to any subsequent 80.

I ran both the upper & lower intakes out to work where we have a boiling temp pressure washer (‘hotsie’ in industry term) - even soaking engine degreaser prior still left that tan residue, so the hotsie made the runner tubes spotless.
"...I did myself a big favor & cut the casting that the entire wiring loom runs thru & smoothed both runner tubes..."

Photo?
 
"...I did myself a big favor & cut the casting that the entire wiring loom runs thru & smoothed both runner tubes..."

Photo?


It was on a hard drive that crashed some 4-5 HD’s back. Sorry.

It was circa ‘02-‘03.
 
It was on a hard drive that crashed some 4-5 HD’s back. Sorry.

It was circa ‘02-‘03.
If you ever find yourself "in there" again...

Also, can you do this with the lower manifold in-place, or does it have to be out? Or is that a question I could only ask if I haven't see it?
 
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If you ever find yourself "in there" again...

Also, can you do this with the lower manifold in-place, or does it have to be out? Or is that a question I could only ask if I haven't see it?

You **can** & I did do it in place, but it takes a sawzall, a brand new blade & enough time on a sawzall to know you won’t stab the wire harness.

If you crack loose the lower intake & toss shims (I used plywood, if scared you could use some steel in the stack of shims so you don’t risk blade teeth in the head).

Once you have shims behind the cutting points next to each runner, barely snug the nuts holding the lower on the studs to the head.

It went like clockwork for me, then once I had snaked the lower mani out from the wire harness there - then I used a little Makita 1” belt sander & took the shape to being 2 circular / divorced runners & ran it all out to work & hit it with the hotsie.

Upside - if you ever need pull the head, you skip unhooking all wires in the engine loom that pass thru that captured hole in the lower manifold. IIRC, at least 3 went all the way to the topside of the transmission alone.

I swore I saw that AL scrap out in the shop in a bucket of AL of all sorts (I keep all my SS & AL scraps in 5gal buckets for ‘later’) - when you do it right you get about a 3/8” thick 1”x1.5” parallelogram of scrap.
 
You **can** & I did do it in place, but it takes a sawzall, a brand new blade & enough time on a sawzall to know you won’t stab the wire harness.

If you crack loose the lower intake & toss shims (I used plywood, if scared you could use some steel in the stack of shims so you don’t risk blade teeth in the head).

Once you have shims behind the cutting points next to each runner, barely snug the nuts holding the lower on the studs to the head.

It went like clockwork for me, then once I had snaked the lower mani out from the wire harness there - then I used a little Makita 1” belt sander & took the shape to being 2 circular / divorced runners & ran it all out to work & hit it with the hotsie.

Upside - if you ever need pull the head, you skip unhooking all wires in the engine loom that pass thru that captured hole in the lower manifold. IIRC, at least 3 went all the way to the topside of the transmission alone.

I swore I saw that AL scrap out in the shop in a bucket of AL of all sorts (I keep all my SS & AL scraps in 5gal buckets for ‘later’) - when you do it right you get about a 3/8” thick 1”x1.5” parallelogram of scrap.
"Blade teeth in the head?" Hoping you mean the cylinder head... :frown:
 
"Blade teeth in the head?" Hoping you mean the cylinder head... :frown:
Uhhhhh…..yeah 🙃

J/K - yes - cyl head - the reach to cut it requires a long pattern blade, so why it’s just smart $$ to get a brand new blade in the fine tooth pattern.

—But the long blades can flex if you torque then instead of letting them do all the work - if you keep that in mind it’s a real simple job.
 
What do you guys think, ya or nay. To pull and clean or not not? At the very least the EGR port?

53BCA588-1D2E-47C0-953E-659EC49F9EDD.jpeg


50E210DF-9115-48A3-B646-6B6C24FCE497.jpeg
 
Uhhhhh…..yeah 🙃

J/K - yes - cyl head - the reach to cut it requires a long pattern blade, so why it’s just smart $$ to get a brand new blade in the fine tooth pattern.

—But the long blades can flex if you torque then instead of letting them do all the work - if you keep that in mind it’s a real simple job.
Thanks for all the info! One more Q: Did you add some kind of holder/clip/standoff/retention device to keep similar wire routing? I mean, Mr. T must have wanted it there for a reason...
 
Thanks for all the info! One more Q: Did you add some kind of holder/clip/standoff/retention device to keep similar wire routing? I mean, Mr. T must have wanted it there for a reason...
Nope.
Bringing the sawzall / was in 100% wildcat territory- despite knowing the flange was mass-production / mate to 1FZ.


No regertz :p
 

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