Removal of 12.5G LRA Tank for replacement of Evap Canister

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I still get that occasionally.. did you run a smoke test to find that vent tube issue?
no, I reseated it and then wrapped in plastic and tape to make sure it had a good seal. Likely overkill, but I wanted to make sure I had found the issue

I tried to order that small hose, but the order was later voided as no longer available??
 
woohoo, after 3 days of driving different profiles the test finally ran and the EVAP test passed in the report.

Cause was the not fully seated Fuel tank to Canister vent tube

All temp and permenant codes are gone. No issues reported

I will have to run the EVAP test again when I put the tank in.

I did order this on Amazon as it has more capability than my phone OBD program. It says it can kick off EVAP tests and is setup for Toyotas so will work for the 200 and the Tacoma. Had several really good reviews, but none that actuially ran the test

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D626T9HK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I will post up after I reinstall the tank. The rubber strips will be here in a week so it will be after that

I literally just got one of those yesterday and used it this morning for the first time!

Instructions are useless, no online support, takes some trial and error, but works great and has much more functionality than Carista

I used it to disable the auto telescoping steering column

The more fiddling I did with it, the more features I found, it’s impressive
 
I literally just got one of those yesterday and used it this morning for the first time!

Instructions are useless, no online support, takes some trial and error, but works great and has much more functionality than Carista

I used it to disable the auto telescoping steering column

The more fiddling I did with it, the more features I found, it’s impressive
so far this Techstream alternative seems to do what it claims. The discussion on it can be found here Handheld Techstream Alternative Found! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/handheld-techstream-alternative-found.1353455/
 
Rubber strips came today so I installed the tank. I put it on where Ed suggested
I put strips along those entire sections. I forgot to take a picture before I put the tank back in. Since the Evap canister fit and worked well for 6almost 7 years, I did not modify the mounting for it. I saw no signs of interference on the old tank. My only issue was the connector that broke I posted earlier. Make sure that is moved out of the way
rubber install.webp


Tank is back in, now to get a right angle tail pipe behind the wheel and then emissions. Once I have emissions completed, I will make it fail with a gas cap off using the tester and then put it back on and run the tester again. If it fails, I will have two years to figure it out :)

Suggestion is removing the Aux tank to replace the canister is to have these to verify it works before you put the tank in. These worked great ffor me and allowed me to make sure it worked by sealing the fuel system up without the tank
1736565626495.webp


also have the clips for the wheel well molding
20250110_192545.webp

The fuel pump works, but I think I cut one of the sender wires as it got stuck between the fuel hose and tank when I put it in. The switch has all green leds with an empty tank. I can access those with the tank in so can repair it later. Since the pump works, I can still use it until the pump gets loud until I fix that. I believe the sender will cut off the pump, but not sure if that is how it works. Anyone know?

I will run a few tanks through and then put the spare tire back on. Hopefully, the rest of my posts will be progress as I finish what is stated here.
 
I think the switch gets an empty signal from the sender and then runs for a preset amount of time before beeping and shutting the pump off. The after run time is user programmable.
 
I think the switch gets an empty signal from the sender and then runs for a preset amount of time before beeping and shutting the pump off. The after run time is user programmable.

Yup. It'll beep twice when shutting off, once it's detected fuel level at red for about a minute (default) IIRC.

Rubber strips came today so I installed the tank. I put it on where Ed suggested
I put strips along those entire sections. I forgot to take a picture before I put the tank back in. Since the Evap canister fit and worked well for 6almost 7 years, I did not modify the mounting for it. I saw no signs of interference on the old tank. My only issue was the connector that broke I posted earlier. Make sure that is moved out of the way
View attachment 3812923

Tank is back in, now to get a right angle tail pipe behind the wheel and then emissions. Once I have emissions completed, I will make it fail with a gas cap off using the tester and then put it back on and run the tester again. If it fails, I will have two years to figure it out :)

Suggestion is removing the Aux tank to replace the canister is to have these to verify it works before you put the tank in. These worked great ffor me and allowed me to make sure it worked by sealing the fuel system up without the tank
View attachment 3812927

also have the clips for the wheel well molding
View attachment 3812928
The fuel pump works, but I think I cut one of the sender wires as it got stuck between the fuel hose and tank when I put it in. The switch has all green leds with an empty tank. I can access those with the tank in so can repair it later. Since the pump works, I can still use it until the pump gets loud until I fix that. I believe the sender will cut off the pump, but not sure if that is how it works. Anyone know?

I will run a few tanks through and then put the spare tire back on. Hopefully, the rest of my posts will be progress as I finish what is stated here.

This witness marks on the tank could suggest they didn't remove the two bracket for the stock aux tank? Or maybe they did and your setup just has a tight fitting tank against the cab.

1736613964072.png


 
I am glad to be wrong about the sender. I had the tank on its side so the sender must have gotten into the full position. A minute of driving and it showed empty. Put 6 gallons into it and read correctly and then verified transfer pump was working

New Exhaust pipe out behind rear driver tire and passed emissions

Don't know what to say
This witness marks on the tank could suggest they didn't remove the two bracket for the stock aux tank? Or maybe they did and your setup just has a tight fitting tank against the cab.
That wasnt a picture of my tank. I just put the rubber were that showed. That photo is from Ed Martin from your install thread

Mine fit much easier this time being the 3rd time I installed it. With the 1/8" rubber strip there has to be more clearance for the Canister. There was no scruf marks on the old canister so don't think there was any interference or tolerance issues.

No nopise driving around with everything installed.

Next step to apply the thermal insulation and wrap you suggested on the tank and the exhaust pipe. Smaller area now that I removed the resonator and rerouted the exhaust

Then put the spare tire back in

Oh and make the Evap test fail so I can verify that tool can command an evap test. Easy to do leaving the gas cap off.
 
Finally all done after running a tank ful through from Aux to the main.

Tire carrier re-installed

Spare Tire put back on.

The tire carrier was also a pain. You have to angle the carrier in and put the brackets on making sure thee lip of the bracket goes in the slot on the end of the carrier

The other bolts on the passenger side are not easy to bolt down from the bracket to the carrier, you have to use a angle socket and make sure everything is aligned until you get all 4 bolts in
 
Thank you for this timely thread. After 4.5 trouble free years with the LRA 12.5 tank I started getting the EVAP codes a couple weeks ago. I changed the vent tube filter and switched to 5/8" line hoping that would fix it. Reset the codes and all was well until the next fuel fill up. The CEL seems to correspond with filling up the tank.

I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the vapor canister. They seem to run between $5-$600 online. Where did you source your canister?
 
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Thank you for this timely thread. After 4.5 trouble free years with the LRA 12.5 tank I started getting the EVAP codes a couple weeks ago. I changed the vent tube filter and switched to 5/8" line hoping that would fix it. Reset the codes and all was well until the next fuel fill up. The CEL seems to correspond with filling up the tank.

I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the vapor canister. They seem to run between $5-$600 online. Where did you source your canister?
When I bought from them, the discount didnt show up until checkout

1740780347989.png
 

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