Remanufactured CV axle shaft vs. New OEM CV axle shaft
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I will say a good 7 as it involves heavy items and lots of pieces to work on. Also either renting or having the right tools will make it a little easier but still a moderate to difficult job.
Easier after the first one as you’ll gain a good bit of knowledge. It took me 8 hours. I think it depends on how much wrenching you’ve done and your comfort level. Watch some videos to judge for your self.
Easier after the first one as you’ll gain a good bit of knowledge. It took me 8 hours. I think it depends on how much wrenching you’ve done and your comfort level. Watch some videos to judge for your self.
I would rate @ two 
first time. Not “hard” In fact pretty easy after you get one out and successfully back in. But there can be two challenge spots; knuckle removal (ball joint disconnect) and axle re-install ( there is a technique to get the axle to easily snap in-place). Do it per FSM steps and completely remove the knuckle its much easier and gives better access to cV.
Study install threads and some good posts by @2001LC to assist you. Be careful of mission creep in CVAxle job, there are lot of interrelated parts, seals, dust seals, flanges, cone washers, knuckle refresh that should be evaluated and maybe serviced “while your in there”
Study- tool up- have right parts on hand ahead of time and ask for RTH if needed. We’re here to help.
You can do it
first time. Not “hard” In fact pretty easy after you get one out and successfully back in. But there can be two challenge spots; knuckle removal (ball joint disconnect) and axle re-install ( there is a technique to get the axle to easily snap in-place). Do it per FSM steps and completely remove the knuckle its much easier and gives better access to cV.Study install threads and some good posts by @2001LC to assist you. Be careful of mission creep in CVAxle job, there are lot of interrelated parts, seals, dust seals, flanges, cone washers, knuckle refresh that should be evaluated and maybe serviced “while your in there”
Study- tool up- have right parts on hand ahead of time and ask for RTH if needed. We’re here to help.
You can do it
The link was found via google shopping for G2 Axle G2 AXLE & GEAR | HOME....the last two days I’ve attempted to speak with them via phone just to see if it’s legit. No success yet in speaking to them. Sent them an email via there website just now so I will post up here if any good news comes of it.
There is a short cut, but this does not provide much clearance to get the cv assemvbly out. I would suggest buying extra diff housing oil seals, in case of damaging one (or more) they are fairly cheap. I hate putting a project on hold to make a parts run for small stuff
The biggest difference you will notice in a non-oem CV shaft is the boot quality. OEM boots (as we know) last a long time. I found using a new aftermarket CV shaft assembly, i would get 1-2 years out of it before a boot would fail. Sure a lot of the aftermarket stuff has lifetime warranty, but work is work and down-time is down-time. I had my OEM shafts on the shelf for a number of years before i finally decided to rebuild them and install. Toyota has a CV "Drive Shaft Boot Kit" has the boots, bands, correct grease (x2) and c-clip... everything you need in one part number.
EDIT, in December noticed leaking on both outer sides where boot meets axle........Toyota replaced at no cost, was days within 1 year warranty. Still had to pay the cost for replacement at my shop, fairly pissed since I paid the cost of oem for this NOT to happen. SPC uca's and slee diff drop. Did some moderate wheeling in sw Colorado last July but nothing major.
I’ve put nothing but OEM axles and reboot kits on this truck since purchase five years/150k miles ago, and even still I have ripped several boots, and I fully BROKE an axle a week or so ago. Obliterated the cage on the wheel side. Strongly considering aftermarket since the warranties seem to be better and I keep having problems. I could buy two NAPAs for half the price of a single unit at the cheapest available OEM price, so I’d have a spare for the trail. I’m seriously debating going aftermarket this go around. Am I crazy?
Only problem is that the warranty for all AM axles states that they are not intended for Offroad use or use with lifted vehicles. Depending on how stringent your local NAPA is, that may or may not cause issues.
RE: Aftermarket CV assemblies; you'll get even better at swapping them out.
@Das Shtig what's your resting front suspension height measured from ground straight up to lower lip of fender? I'm not a bet'n man but if I was I'd guess its fairly high. That, IMHO, is the single reason some guys go through CVs prematurely...
@Das Shtig what's your resting front suspension height measured from ground straight up to lower lip of fender? I'm not a bet'n man but if I was I'd guess its fairly high. That, IMHO, is the single reason some guys go through CVs prematurely...
I presume the dealer would be the same. I’ve never been able to get a warranty out of a part I’ve installed myself anyway. Usually one place needs to install the parts and do the labor, in order to be available for warranty replacement. Otherwise, you could’ve screwed it up when you installed it. At least that’s what I’ve been told.
I’ll have to grab my tape measure, but I’m running stock AHC. Only thing that isn’t stock is my 33” tires. Are you suggesting a diff drop?
The manufacturers make the half axles as the weak point in the drive line to absorb any shock load. Replacing these half shafts are easy compared to internal components in the diff and/or transmission. When you install heavy-duty axles, it is guaranteed that you will snap something interior which costs more and hard to replace (see Ronny's video).
See front both CV's snapping on an Armada (Patrol) at 56:00 here
Ronny's video See 15:30
See front both CV's snapping on an Armada (Patrol) at 56:00 here
Ronny's video See 15:30
Yeah it would help if nothing else. Seeing as you bust so many axles I would look at what you are doing to bust them and see if it is just something that you should be changing your process or accept as part of what you do.
Other option would be to save up for @TRAIL TAILOR new 100 series SAS conversion. Less likelihood of snapping axles at that point.
Haha. Well that is certainly an option to consider.
This is the first one I’ve actually *broken*, but I’ve torn several boots. The first time was because of a pinhole in the boot I noticed after installation. The other times, I presume has been from off-road use. It sounds like there’s just only so much flex, and at a certain point, those boots will tear. Sounds like diff drop is the way to go.
I’m going to go with aftermarket CVs this time. Brand new, not remanufactured. I’m purchasing from a fantastic local parts shop who knows how I use this truck, and I trust to honor the lifetime warranty offered with new CV they’re selling for about $175. And before I head out to the trail next, I will pick up one of those $65 NAPA jobs, as a spare. That’s a significantly cheaper option than a single new OEM, and gives me an emergency backup.
And it sounds like I’m going to have to accept it as part of what happens when you off-road a 100, particularly an LX with a AHC in HI. Like @nissanh said (which I didn’t understand before, but totally get now—thank you), this is meant to be a break point, to prevent more serious damage. So I guess I’ll be sure to thank my CVs next time they break! And I’ll use the money saved to pick up a diff drop, hopefully mitigating the real of the problem somewhat.
And if the whole plan goes to pot, I can always buy a new OEM later on.
Thanks everybody!