Refreshing a 1FZ, cheap as practical (1 Viewer)

[fjbj40]

My 93 80 has 295,000 miles, works well.
Valve seals need doing, and I have all gear to do them insitu.

But a 96 1FZ presented itself to me. I thought what a better time to “learn the 1FZ”!

Fully disassembled the engine. By the way, when we drained the oil there was every bit of a few litres of chocolate shake water oil.

I figured internally it would be corroded. Only thing corroded was cams

I’m using Brulin 815 GD. It’s an aerospace product that turbine engine parts can be sonically cleaned, but it’s meant for 120-140F.
Engine is sitting in my cardboard soak cleaner about 10% solution, on the garage floor, no agitation just 5 minutes here and there of brushing with a 2” paint brush.

So far, zero dollars as it was an exchange for services

I will do as much work myself possible.I am thinking Neway cutters for the seats. OEM gasket kit, piston rings price depending. If more than $200 I will investigate quality alternatives.

#6 head gasket failure is what did this engine “in”. That piston would not reach tdc either way you turned it, due to corrosion.
Must For Rust used and less than an hour and it was cleaned and engine rotated. Zero damage to any bearings.

This is the head after soaking 2 days.

 

[fjbj40]

Just rinsed with nozzle from hot water tank.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Nice. NPR sells rings for the 1 fz under $100 and my machinists says he can not find a difference in a OEM set I had and the NPR. It has been discussed on here that they are the OEM manufacturer.

 

[fjbj40]

Nice. NPR sells rings for the 1 fz under $100 and my machinists says he can not find a difference in a OEM set I had and the NPR. It has been discussed on here that they are the OEM manufacturer.

Nice! Thanks

 

[fjbj40]

So the plan is to hone some cylinders to clean up
Corrosion, not remove it 100%. If I did just as well to bore and 100% rebuild, I’m not.

New rings to be installed.

Some cylinders just need de-glazing.

I will re-use all bearings if oil clearance is within spec.

Intake valves just need lapping. Exhaust need grind as does the ex seats.

Remember, as cheap as possible refresh.

Here where my sickness shows.

My plan is to properly overhaul my 93’s engine. This 96 is the hopes of keeping truck on the rd while rebuild mine over say 2-3 years.

Why? For some stupid reason my brain is telling me to keep this a numbers matching truck.

This will be a slow burn on this engine. I’d say 1 year to do.

Last 2 pics are the before and after #6

Remember, as cheap as possible

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice.

I've been in a similar boat recently. I want to keep my 80 numbers matching, but the original engine needs a full tear down and rebuild.
I picked up a used engine that turned out to need a head gasket, and some new sensors.

I totally get the 'as cheap as possible' approach for a short term solution, but think you have gone past the point where reusing bearings no longer makes sense.

$$ to change them now vs effort to replace at a later date.
To put bearings it in later, your replacing seals gaskets etc again. Re-stressing main cap bolts, rod bolts etc

In my case, I think I picked up my used engine cheap enough that I can recover the cost of the engine and parts I've put into it after I rebuild the original.

In your case, you got the engine for $free.99, you can put some parts into it, and recover the $$ later if you decide to sell. Or invest a bit more into it, and keep it stored as a future spare.

 

[mehbohdi]

I came from small block Chevy's to Toyota's, I've "rebuilt" dozens of them and every other type of American iron. On a budget if bores are clean valves are close one can get away with cheap cast rings and a ball hone (cast rings seat the easiest and aren't as finicky to bore finish), lapped valves new seals. I would always use new oil pump, bearings, and cam, those parts are cheap for a sm blk but, not necessary. I did 1 of these once that went a additional 100,000 miles after bargin rebuild. In my experience clean is important before and during assembly. One can wipe out new bearings in a heart beat if its not clean. Also get break in oil out of motor after 50 miles or less. Then drive it like you stole it..... periodically to get rings seated. That 1 cylinder might hone out, it's on the border line from the pic. You might be able to get oversized rings to set gap, I know thats alot to ask for a 1FZ. Good luck keep us posted.

 

[COYS]

Cool to see you getting at it!

To be clear, where are you guys seeing this numbers matching identifier on the engine to chassis?

 

[OGBeno]

Cool to see you getting at it!

To be clear, where are you guys seeing this numbers matching identifier on the engine to chassis?

VIN is on the cylinder head. Thus matching the chassis VIN.

There is an engine serial number on the block that corresponds to the chassis. But you’d need Toyota internal access to correlate.

 

[fjbj40]

Nice.

I've been in a similar boat recently. I want to keep my 80 numbers matching, but the original engine needs a full tear down and rebuild.
I picked up a used engine that turned out to need a head gasket, and some new sensors.

I totally get the 'as cheap as possible' approach for a short term solution, but think you have gone past the point where reusing bearings no longer makes sense.

$$ to change them now vs effort to replace at a later date.
To put bearings it in later, your replacing seals gaskets etc again. Re-stressing main cap bolts, rod bolts etc

In my case, I think I picked up my used engine cheap enough that I can recover the cost of the engine and parts I've put into it after I rebuild the original.

In your case, you got the engine for $free.99, you can put some parts into it, and recover the $$ later if you decide to sell. Or invest a bit more into it, and keep it stored as a future spare.

I agree with you now that I have looked more closely at them and put the same logical thought process into it. I think I will replace bearings after I have looked at their prices. Less than $200 from my supplier.

 

[fjbj40]

Few more hours of cleaning today.

My new cleaning tank is working great. Made out of composite honeycomb, epoxied together.

 

[White Stripe]

That looks like you'll have to bore it out to me.

 

[fjbj40]

That looks like you'll have to bore it out to me.

Going to see what a good hone does first

 

[rdcnj]

If your engine had "chocolate milk" like in those photos and you're reusing the bearings, I would strongly advise against it.

It's much cheaper and easier to do that now than to have your engine ticking at idle and not knowing why.

 

[fjbj40]

Done with cylinder cleaning, for now, but it now needs vapour blasting

 

[fjbj40]

2 day soak, good initial clean!

 

[fjbj40]

Crank goes in soak tonight

 

[fjbj40]

One of the final parts in the initial cleaning process, the crank.

I wanted to get as much use out of the cleaner so its final use was to soak the crank overnight. Rinsed with hot water and a fresh bubble bath prepared

 

[fjbj40]

Crank cleaned for a good visual insp and it passed.
Applied preservation compound after and wrapped for storage.

 

[slow95z]

i am also going to say that block will need to be punched out. looks like too much rust for just a hone