- Thread starter
- #381
Lots of little utility trailers up here. They are 5'x9' or so and have a big plastic weather cover. They actually look quite handy.
Builds "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rednexus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It's very goofy looking that's for sure
That's awesome, I'm sure all the road salt here has a big negative environmental impact, "salting the earth" and all that. Added benefit of no rust would be nice.
- Thread starter
- #389
I'm GCing it (which I don't recommend as it's basically a 2nd job
) but have various contractors doing 95% of the actual work. It was hard to find anyone to do the radiant so we DIY'd it.Don't crush my dreams before I get startedI'm GCing it (which I don't recommend as it's basically a 2nd job
- Thread starter
- #391
Lol. It's saving us money for sure and I know where every dollar is going. It would be much tougher if my day job wasn't so flexible. I'll be glad when it's done though and we move in.Don't crush my dreams before I get started
dovetails
SILVER Star
Very nice! That'll be such a great feature in the dead of winter haha.
- Thread starter
- #393
Made $31.25 in beer money today. Always feels weird when I roll up to the dump....or now the scrapyard....in a Lexus. 500# total of ferrous metals. The GX with the empty trailer and me is 6050#.....kind of a heavy girl!
dovetails
SILVER Star
What's up with the Ironman 4x4 coils? changed them out?
- Thread starter
- #395
Warranty return in 2022. The original coils sagged/bent and started rubbing the shock body. Ironman sent me brand new complete coilovers after I filed a claim. I pulled off the coils and scrapped them, but have the old shocks on eBay right now
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #396
Finally joined the thirty-three club. Ended up going with the Wildpeak AT4Ws (SL rated) due to the known rain performance of the tire and the fact that most of the miles on this rig are pulling our camper around loaded up with the family. These rub the front inner fender pretty well, so it will get trimmed tomorrow when it stops raining .
EDIT: After a bit of driving around, they ride way better than the 265s! Bumps/potholes/etc are noticeably smoother. There is a not-insignificant reduction acceleration, especially out of the hole from a stop, but it isn't as bad as I was thinking it might be. I upped the SpeedoHealer correction factor all the way to +6.2% and the speedometer is no reading spot-on with GPS (it was +3.5% with worn 265s). It's pulling an even 2,050 rpm at 75 mph. So, it is definitely a bit under-geared, although the engine power is making up for some of that. I think this combo will be perfect with a 4.56 regear.
After making this change to my GX, I think a 4Runner with the same tires and gearing but a 4.0 V6, plus a bunch of overlanding gear, would be downright lethargic. I see why my buddy ended up selling his built-out 2018 TRD OR due to it being pretty slow.
.EDIT: After a bit of driving around, they ride way better than the 265s! Bumps/potholes/etc are noticeably smoother. There is a not-insignificant reduction acceleration, especially out of the hole from a stop, but it isn't as bad as I was thinking it might be. I upped the SpeedoHealer correction factor all the way to +6.2% and the speedometer is no reading spot-on with GPS (it was +3.5% with worn 265s). It's pulling an even 2,050 rpm at 75 mph. So, it is definitely a bit under-geared, although the engine power is making up for some of that. I think this combo will be perfect with a 4.56 regear.
After making this change to my GX, I think a 4Runner with the same tires and gearing but a 4.0 V6, plus a bunch of overlanding gear, would be downright lethargic. I see why my buddy ended up selling his built-out 2018 TRD OR due to it being pretty slow.
Last edited:
I cant remember, did you do body mount relocation earlier? Or still OEM?
Good to know!
- Thread starter
- #400
Spent a few hours in the shop today.
First was adjusting the front inner fenders to hopefully mitigate the rubbing. I just drilled a new hole in the bumper, pulled the inner fender a few inches forward, drilled two holes in it, and zip-tied the inner fender to the new location. This should make the rubbing quite a bit better, but I'll likely still get some rubbing under suspension flex. This rig will be getting a winch bumper in the next 12-18 months, so this quick fix should be just fine.
After looking some more, the tires are awful close to the body mount, although I do not yet have any rubbing. I may go ahead and do a BMC next time I'm welding on the rig (likely when the bumper gets built/installed).
I also cleaned up a Magnefine filter that I had added behind the transmission cooler. The stock trans basically has no filtration, just a screen and some magnets in the pan. I'm hoping this will catch anything that goes through the kind of crummy stock system. However, it was tough to put it near the cooler without kinking the trans lines. I could have put it elsewhere, but wanted to put it somewhere highly visible (so as to remember to replace it at each trans fluid exchange, or to quickly bypass it if needed). I ended up using some 304 SS barbed 3/8" elbow fittings, which were pretty hard to find, but allowed the filter to be installed without any hose kinks. I'll probably buy some more of these fittings and re-do my Magnefine filter for the power steering system, as they are way cleaner than looping hose around.
Lastly, I bled the brakes. It had been feeling kind of like it had a bubble or two in the brakes after I installed all 6 new hoses on it a couple of months ago. This time I used a Motive Power Bleeder, which was the ticket. I looped a piece of romex wire around the bottom of the master cylinder and got a good enough seal for it to hold 5-10 psi (per a photo on the Amazon reviews of someone using the Motive to bleed brakes on a FJ). Sure enough, a couple tiny bubbles came out of the rear brakes. I've bled the brakes on this several times the old-school, two person way, and have no clue how I ended up with bubbles last time. Regardless, this is a much easier way to bleed the brakes, and Mrs. Rednexus appreciated not having to be the pedal-pusher.
Next item on the docket is the compressor wiring. I had to air down to get in my shop on 33s. The compressor kept cutting out during the air-up, and the 10 ga feed wire was getting pretty warm near the compressor. I'm going to re-wire it with 6 ga and see if that helps. If not, I'm going to bite the bullet and just get an ARB and install it in the same location. Having onboard air is too nice/important and I don't want the Smittybilt crapping out in the middle of nowhere.
First was adjusting the front inner fenders to hopefully mitigate the rubbing. I just drilled a new hole in the bumper, pulled the inner fender a few inches forward, drilled two holes in it, and zip-tied the inner fender to the new location. This should make the rubbing quite a bit better, but I'll likely still get some rubbing under suspension flex. This rig will be getting a winch bumper in the next 12-18 months, so this quick fix should be just fine.
After looking some more, the tires are awful close to the body mount, although I do not yet have any rubbing. I may go ahead and do a BMC next time I'm welding on the rig (likely when the bumper gets built/installed).
I also cleaned up a Magnefine filter that I had added behind the transmission cooler. The stock trans basically has no filtration, just a screen and some magnets in the pan. I'm hoping this will catch anything that goes through the kind of crummy stock system. However, it was tough to put it near the cooler without kinking the trans lines. I could have put it elsewhere, but wanted to put it somewhere highly visible (so as to remember to replace it at each trans fluid exchange, or to quickly bypass it if needed). I ended up using some 304 SS barbed 3/8" elbow fittings, which were pretty hard to find, but allowed the filter to be installed without any hose kinks. I'll probably buy some more of these fittings and re-do my Magnefine filter for the power steering system, as they are way cleaner than looping hose around.
Lastly, I bled the brakes. It had been feeling kind of like it had a bubble or two in the brakes after I installed all 6 new hoses on it a couple of months ago. This time I used a Motive Power Bleeder, which was the ticket. I looped a piece of romex wire around the bottom of the master cylinder and got a good enough seal for it to hold 5-10 psi (per a photo on the Amazon reviews of someone using the Motive to bleed brakes on a FJ). Sure enough, a couple tiny bubbles came out of the rear brakes. I've bled the brakes on this several times the old-school, two person way, and have no clue how I ended up with bubbles last time. Regardless, this is a much easier way to bleed the brakes, and Mrs. Rednexus appreciated not having to be the pedal-pusher.
Next item on the docket is the compressor wiring. I had to air down to get in my shop on 33s. The compressor kept cutting out during the air-up, and the 10 ga feed wire was getting pretty warm near the compressor. I'm going to re-wire it with 6 ga and see if that helps. If not, I'm going to bite the bullet and just get an ARB and install it in the same location. Having onboard air is too nice/important and I don't want the Smittybilt crapping out in the middle of nowhere.
