Builds "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread (13 Viewers)
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- #242
See below how it's wired. My goal was to have the compressor on it's own 50A breaker and a separate 60A breaker for the relay box/non-compressor accessories. I could have used a ~100A breaker for both but wanted to have something that would trip if the compressor built-in breaker fails, since there is 3-4 ft of wire between the panel and the compressor (which draws around 45A when running). I also didn't want to have to run two wires to the battery, hence using 6ga. If it's better and just as safe to use a single bigger breaker it would honestly make my wiring easier and free up space on this panel for other stuff. I currently have the compressor straight to the battery, so it's not hooked up to the panel yet. The 10g wires don't get hot after airing up multiple rigs.
I also thought about running both the compressor and the relay box off the 60A breaker, but had concerns it would trip on the off-chance that I use the compressor and something like an LED light bar at the same time. I only really use the compressor for filling tires while parked, but you never know.
Happy to get feedback and improve this!
I got it, I also checked out your wire diagram , it all looks good.. What I don't get is, the power coming in at the top of the cb's vs the bottom and feeding accessories out the top, where you currently have your feeds? That's how they want them hooked up?
Appreciate you taking input and not getting a case of the ass.. well done sir!
Appreciate you taking input and not getting a case of the ass.. well done sir!
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- #244
yea
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I have the bus bars feeding the relay box on the bottom of the tray, so the one 6ga cable that leads from the CB on the right wraps around the tray and ties into the + bus bar that the photo doesn't show. The - bus bar is down there too and I'll have a black 6-ga cable that goes directly from it to the battery. I really wish I would have bought panel-mount CBs with the switch on the top and the cable studs on the bottom so I could have had a cleaner installation. Next time...
No problem! Part of knowing enough to be dangerous about electrical stuff is showing it to other folks so they can look at it
.I have the bus bars feeding the relay box on the bottom of the tray, so the one 6ga cable that leads from the CB on the right wraps around the tray and ties into the + bus bar that the photo doesn't show. The - bus bar is down there too and I'll have a black 6-ga cable that goes directly from it to the battery. I really wish I would have bought panel-mount CBs with the switch on the top and the cable studs on the bottom so I could have had a cleaner installation. Next time...
Not sure if it was discussed anywhere in the recent posts, but make sure that the wire from the battery to the 60A breaker is fused at the battery as well. If there is any rubbing, you could have a direct battery to ground connection. Or at a minimum you could run the wire in a protective loom.
Personally, I like to keep the length of non-fused supply wire to a minimum at all times and use stud type breakers on a piece of copper strip directly at the battery post.
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- #246
I should have around ~18" total, and will be putting it in a protective loom as well. Someone else posted photos of theirs in the loom and it also looked great and more finished. I have some red loom for the hot wire and black loom for the negative.
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- #247
The pieces are coming together. Got my semi-custom draft 3D designs from Blue Dog Designwerks for the forward mount and the shifter surround, before they are 3D printed. I'm really going for the OEM+ look here instead of the Switchpros which would have been 5X easier. Per another thread I made I'd like to sand these and paint them to match the OEM console paint, although I'm not sure how hard/easy it will be to sand them evenly given the odd shapes. I might also mask off the protruding parts.
I'm going to have the OEM-style switches, QC power port, data port, TB controller, and switches for all current and future lights and accessories plus one spare switch blank. The lockers will be the ARB/Harrop style locker switches, everything else is OEM-Toyota style switches. The round port is a for a CAT6 bulkhead jack for my Midland GMRS (not yet installed). The recess is a wallet/phone pocket.
I'm going to have the OEM-style switches, QC power port, data port, TB controller, and switches for all current and future lights and accessories plus one spare switch blank. The lockers will be the ARB/Harrop style locker switches, everything else is OEM-Toyota style switches. The round port is a for a CAT6 bulkhead jack for my Midland GMRS (not yet installed). The recess is a wallet/phone pocket.
Did you taper the holes for the switches? I've done a couple iterations now trying to get the fitment right for the panel left of the steering wheel and it would seem the sockets need to tapered slightly to get snug fitment.
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- #249
Do you mean the sockets for the switches into the panel, or the panel into the dash? I just test fit a couple into the panel and they fit pretty good and seem to be snug. I haven't test fit the panel into the dash yet.
Also this stuff sands super easy - 90 seconds with a palm sander and the part is almost paint-ready.
The sockets for the switches into the panel. I printed mine based off the dimensions from the factory panel but they don't sit as snug and I noticed on the Blue Dog it looks like there's a slight taper to the sockets
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- #251
Gotcha. I'd probably wrap the switches in a layer or two of electrical tape to snug them up if you don't want to re-do the panel.
Looks like there are lots of cool 3D printed things folks are making for these....glovebox pockets for the DVD holder, mudflap replacement panels, etc.
Looks like there are lots of cool 3D printed things folks are making for these....glovebox pockets for the DVD holder, mudflap replacement panels, etc.
- Thread starter
- #252
Aux fuse/relay box is all done! I wrapped all the 6-ga wire in braided loom and heat shrink (great stuff - I had not used it before) and added some deustch connectors. Left-most is a 12-ga connector for the LED light bar, middle-left will will be to all non-lightbar and non-locker accessories (lockers will run on their own circuit provided by Harrop), and the middle-right is for the trigger wires leading to the interior switches. The far right is for a tap into the high beam + wire, so the switches for the light bar and ditch light will only work when the high beams were on.
This took quite a bit of learning, planning, and tool purchasing on my end. I'd do it a bit different if I were to do it again but I'm happy with how it turned out. I did test everything on the bench before finalizing it - the only error I made was how I hooked up the ATRAC/VSC off relay (had to figure out how to wire a 5-pin relay to break a circuit). The ATRAC/VSC circuit will tie into the fluid sensor wire on the master cylinder and break that connection when the switch is enabled. I used a Bosch relay with a diode on that circuit, to keep any high-voltage current from flowing back into that circuit and damaging the computers.
This took quite a bit of learning, planning, and tool purchasing on my end. I'd do it a bit different if I were to do it again but I'm happy with how it turned out. I did test everything on the bench before finalizing it - the only error I made was how I hooked up the ATRAC/VSC off relay (had to figure out how to wire a 5-pin relay to break a circuit). The ATRAC/VSC circuit will tie into the fluid sensor wire on the master cylinder and break that connection when the switch is enabled. I used a Bosch relay with a diode on that circuit, to keep any high-voltage current from flowing back into that circuit and damaging the computers.
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Oversimplification question coming in hot. I have been seeing a handful of folks making switches and buttons to disable the ATRAC VSC ABS, the process seems to be the same as in my 3rd Gen 4R, a momentary switch to cut power to the reservoir, system reset upon ignition off, and then back on. Is that what is going on here as well or did I miss something entirely?
PS that is some very CLEAN and tidy WORK, very well done.
PS that is some very CLEAN and tidy WORK, very well done.
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- #254
In general, yes. I will cut one of the reservoir wires and route it into the realy box and back to the reservoir. It will go through a 5 pin realy, wired normally-closed; so the connection is maintained when no power is sent to the realy. When I hit the VSC/ATRAC DISABLE switch in the cab, the realy will activate and break the connection, which will disable ATRAC, VSC, and ABS. Turning the switch off will restore the connection but probably require turning the ignition on and off to restore the ATRAC/VSC/ABS functions.
I tested it on the bench and it did work in terms of breaking and restoring the connection, but probably won't get the panel and switchgear in the rig til Christmas. FYI it didn't work with the diode relay but does work with a normal 5 pin (i tested it and then swapped relays but luckily tested again the next morning).
I tested it on the bench and it did work in terms of breaking and restoring the connection, but probably won't get the panel and switchgear in the rig til Christmas. FYI it didn't work with the diode relay but does work with a normal 5 pin (i tested it and then swapped relays but luckily tested again the next morning).
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I bought some of his stock items, but I'm going to need something custom. Tried to get my locker switches on the left side of the driver, but it's not going to happen ( I don't want to drill into the dash). Curious to see how the painting part goes. I wonder how these would be to wrap. I will say the finish of the 3d printed parts was better than I anticipated. I've been working with 3d printed parts for over a decade (but no I don't have my own) and these machines have improved a great deal. I'm not sure they would come out with a good finish if I tried to paint them
. I like the spot for the uhf connection. I did see on another thread where you can get this in the toyota switch form factor if you're interested.RJ45 UHF Toyota Connector
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- #256
He charges $90 for the custom panels. It took him a couple of weeks to get me a design after I sent him a sketch, presumably this is a side gig for him. I did see the RJ45 Toyota connector, but didn't really have a remaining rectangular spot for it, and the bulkhead connector has a nice rubber plug, since I won't have the GMRS plugged in all of the time. If I hadn't gone so switch-crazy I would have used the Toyota plug to keep everything matching.
I'll post pics of the painting process - plan right not is to pull out the whole center console and re-paint all of after a deep clean, using with plastic adhesion promoters, some high-build primer, a close match wheel paint (probably Dupli-Color graphite), and a couple coats of clear wheel paint. The OEM grey paint on my console is pretty beat up anyway, so this will make sure everything matches. I painted my headlights black this way and they turned out really good. Prep is of course everything.
Also you may not be that far from me - I'm in Southeast Missouri - lots of great wheeling up this way in the Ozarks.
I'll post pics of the painting process - plan right not is to pull out the whole center console and re-paint all of after a deep clean, using with plastic adhesion promoters, some high-build primer, a close match wheel paint (probably Dupli-Color graphite), and a couple coats of clear wheel paint. The OEM grey paint on my console is pretty beat up anyway, so this will make sure everything matches. I painted my headlights black this way and they turned out really good. Prep is of course everything.
Also you may not be that far from me - I'm in Southeast Missouri - lots of great wheeling up this way in the Ozarks.
Keep us posted. I'd like to see how it turns out.
Yea I'm near Memphis (but not for much longer).
I just started driving my rig to break in the diffs after nearly 9 months of working on it. I cannot wait, but I still have things to do.
Ozarks are on the short list. Matt from OOA is very much to blame.
Happy T Day Red!!
