Builds Redline's Resto Rock Rod (1 Viewer)

[NorCalBorn]

Sweet idea on turning down the hubs, something I might want to consider later down the road if I go long travel and keep my IFS.

Wouldn't the 1/32" you over machined not be too much of a big deal since the rotor hat would be resting on the center O/D portion of the hub hat and kept in position to a degree by the wheel studs or am I overlooking the tolerances overall that get spread around? Did you mock them up with the rotors on yet to see what tolerances they're coming in? The reason I say this is that accidental extra machining may actually be beneficial since I've seen some aftermarket rotors on the tight side.

Shane

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Sweet idea on turning down the hubs, something I might want to consider later down the road if I go long travel and keep my IFS.

Wouldn't the 1/32" you over machined not be too much of a big deal since the rotor hat would be resting on the center O/D portion of the hub hat and kept in position to a degree by the wheel studs or am I overlooking the tolerances overall that get spread around?

Shane

That's what I was thinking as well. IFS hubs also came with a scalloped wheel mounting surface instead of round and I didn't think that was a limitation for running this mod.

Always ready to learn though.

 

[Boing]

Sweet idea on turning down the hubs, something I might want to consider later down the road if I go long travel and keep my IFS.

Wouldn't the 1/32" you over machined not be too much of a big deal since the rotor hat would be resting on the center O/D portion of the hub hat and kept in position to a degree by the wheel studs or am I overlooking the tolerances overall that get spread around? Did you mock them up with the rotors on yet to see what tolerances they're coming in? The reason I say this is that accidental extra machining may actually be beneficial since I've seen some aftermarket rotors on the tight side.

Shane

What I machined down is the OD of the hub, so the ID of the rotor hat would center on the hub (the hub is now a little small, by my measurements).
You are correct in thinking that the lugs will help center it, however if you are looking at the rotor from the side you would be able to slide it up and down on the lugs. If the hub OD is correct you wont be able to slide the rotor up and down on the lugs, however you will still be able to rotate the rotor on the lugs (clockwise-counterclockwise; .027 if I used .5" lug studs). Rotating it (clockwise-counterclockwise) doesn't create a unbalanced situation, however letting gravity pull down on the rotor while mounting the tire would make the rotor unbalanced on the hub. (If that makes sense?)
What I don't know is what kind of tolerance I am working with here is 1/32 to far out or not.

One option would be to open the hubs lug area up to take a 9/16 lug stud, then drill the rotor lug holes out to .5626" that would center it up, but then I wouldn't be able to just go buy rotors if needed. I would like all the trick machine work to be in the hub not on the consumables if at all possible...


*Edit*
I just thought about the below...
What I should do is get some calipers on a GX470 unit bearing! That would be the tolerance that Toyota considered to be "ok" on their luxury car...

That's what I was thinking as well. IFS hubs also came with a scalloped wheel mounting surface instead of round and I didn't think that was a limitation for running this mod.

Always ready to learn though.

The ID of these rotors is smaller than (6.680'ish) the IFS wheel hub face, and you are correct the hubs are scalloped. When turning them down you get rid of the entire scalloped area and are only left with the full sectional width of the wheel face. Its not removing all that much material from the hub, and of course once you get the rotor on, the rotor hat area is larger than the wheel mount of the original IFS hub...

 

[Flank]

Am I over simplifying by understanding that your intended for the hubs to be hub-centric centering, and due to the excess material removed, you are not able to do this? Is there an option to run wheels with conical lugs to make it lug centric? It's tough to tell by your picture if the wheels use conical or shank lugs. If conical, why is this an issue. Sorry for the simplistic question, not normally in the HC section, but lurking on this thread since the beginning.

 

[Boing]

Am I over simplifying by understanding that your intended for the hubs to be hub-centric centering, and due to the excess material removed, you are not able to do this? Is there an option to run wheels with conical lugs to make it lug centric? It's tough to tell by your picture if the wheels use conical or shank lugs. If conical, why is this an issue. Sorry for the simplistic question, not normally in the HC section, but lurking on this thread since the beginning.

Thanks for looking and posting!

You are 100% correct with your first question... In my experience I have seen a lot of bad stuff happen with conical lugs in racing, and I consider rock crawling to be similar to racing in terms of load (not necessarily in speed). That being said aside from the above I think trying to line up the conical lug through the wheel and then through the rotor would be tough. Its not that I couldn't do it, but its my intention with this build to make it simple enough to toss the keys to anyone and not worry about it.

With conical and shank I would worry that either it would fail or in having to change a tire the unsuspecting wife or friend wouldn't get it lined up correctly. That and trying to man handle a 40" tire is bad enough, then you would be hammering on the rotor to get the lug to go all the way through.

That and the bead locks that I have are tapered, so it kind of limits me on this option.


Two work-arounds I have thought of is to use a bigger lug studs (9/16 or 5/8) and drill the rotors lug holes out to the same (lug centric), or use .5" lugs and machine a ring (and tack weld it to the hub) for two of the lugs (180* apart) to hold the rotor while the wheel is tightened down...

I will think about both, bigger lugs isn't a bad option but then I cant just go to the store and buy rotors, they have to be machined. On the other hand I don't like having spacers welded to the hubs in case the rotor needs to be removed due to damage in order to get off of a trail.

I suppose the best answer is the simplest, machine the hubs correctly (which I will do on the next set of 4 hubs).

In order save my two hunks of scrap iron, once I decide on lug size I'll either wind up drilling out the rotor or making a spacer that floats.

 

[Boing]

Bring this thread back to life...

Picked up some TG spindles for the front, they are actually a really nice piece, machine work looks very good...

Finally finished off another set of 4 hubs and just finished pressing in the races and lug studs. Now I need to clean them one more time and start laying down some paint. I will try and get them prepped and painted by the weekend so that they can be mounted on the spindles! I test fit the hubs on some cheap Autozone rotors and they fit great, but they dont slide all the way down on the EBC rotors I have for the project. The EBC's have a little non machined area at the top of the hat. I'll fix that on the lathe... (its always something...)

Here are two of the four... Decided on some racing lug studs that are 1/2-20 so buying lug nuts should be a breeze... Will be looking for some A-corn style lug nuts...

You can see the lip in this picture, hub fits snug all the way down to that lip... I looked at several different rotors before deciding on the final OD of the hub just didnt check the rotors I had... BOOO! At least I'll be able to run any rotor I can find in the future...

 

[fyresq]

subscribed

 

[Senor Aguas]

What I don't know is what kind of tolerance I am working with here is 1/32 to far out or not.

I can tell you from my experience (8 yrs experience as a OEM aluminum wheel engineer) that the tolerance for radial runout on new aluminum wheels (measured at the beadseats) is around 0.5mm (+/- depending on the customer). I've heard that steel wheels get 1.0mm of tolerance, although I don't have any experience with them. You're little mistake on the hub falls into this range and is shouldn't cause too much of an issue if you have good wheels/tires that don't compound the issue.

Considering how picky our customers are, I would assume that you could double or triple these tolerances on a Cruiser that doesn't see super high speeds and doesn't need to be super smooth on pavement.

Hopefully this helps and isn't too engineerdy...

 

[TRoss]

The EBC's have a little non machined area at the top of the hat. I'll fix that on the lathe... (its always something...)

What about putting a 45* chamfer on the hub lip? Er.. maybe that's what yur sayin'.

Nice work, enjoying the thread.

 

[Aaronb]

any updates in this?

 

[Flipper1938]

Whatever happened with this one?

 

[74fj40]

Bump for an update?

 

[GW Nugget]

They upgraded to an 80 series.

 

[ms018kmf]

Nice 40! Not trying to hijack your thread but had a question on your URD setup.

I was wondering if the 7th injector required adjustment for your altitude, I'm at 7K feet. I have a 5VZ with a 1st gen SC and the URD 7th injector, I see EGT temps spike (600+C, not cool) before the 7th injector catches up with RPM. I have trouble getting communication to work between my PC and the URD system. I've tried 3 different RS232 adapters including the Tripplite U209 (supposedly the silver bullet for comm problems). I'm on Windows 10, according to the net W10 is what URD sets their controllers up with. I've tried running URD software (split second) under old versions with no luck. Any insight is appreciated. If I can't make it work with older PC's I'm just going to be careful until it can get a proper tune at a shop.

Nice 40 again, keep up the badass work! Sorry about the the thread hijack, not many high altitude SC's in my searches.