Builds Redline's Resto Rock Rod (1 Viewer)

[Boing]

Also got power installed in the shop, so now just need to hook run the home runs to the new panel, and wire up 3 220 sockets and a 3 phase plug in... Then set the air compressor on a pad outside and build an enclosure for it.

Been collecting stuff for the front suspension, picked up some (FK)1.25" heims for the lower links on the axle side. Also drew up some lower link brackets that I am going to have burned out...

Be back in 2 weeks heading out to Hawaii to get married to my fiance (of 9 years)... After we get back have a very busy (work) summer planned out barf....

 

[buffethat@comcast.ne]

Congrats on the nuptials and the new house. 40 looked great at CM, you guys did a great job. I am going to follow your build, like the engine choice. Shop looks great too, like everyone else am very jealous. I am sure we'll run into each other some time this summer so see ya then.

Rockrunner

 

[Boing]

Congrats on the nuptials and the new house. 40 looked great at CM, you guys did a great job. I am going to follow your build, like the engine choice. Shop looks great too, like everyone else am very jealous. I am sure we'll run into each other some time this summer so see ya then.

Rockrunner

Thanks for both the "nuptials", and the hard work we put in on that 40, I think it shows! Look forward to wheeling with you also!

1.25" heim next to a Mt. Dew can and a sneaky on the left... Will use these heims as the lowers on the axle side front and rear...

And although my savings account hates me right now, after much debate I picked up some new rubber for this project. 40" KM2's

 

[daveIT]

You sure you are married...did you buy your wife like 5 diamond rings or something? Haha!

 

[Boing]

Tars n stuff

Been working on the shop for most of the summer, still have quite a bit to do before I get back to the cruiser full time.

I have got the tires mounted up, 2 days of chasing my tail with a torque wrench.

Also picked up some IFS hubs, took them apart gave them a bath in the parts washer, bead blasted, then back into the parts washer. The hub holes have been thoroughly cleaned out then drilled to 11/32 (wound up at .349") next pass will be with a 3/8" or W. Then they will be tapped out to 7/16-20 tpi.

Cast Iron cuts like butta-but-betta!

Also rebuilt an old drill press (Clausing) that I have owned for quite awhile.

15" Clausing Drill Press Refresh - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

 

[Bull22]

Good work man. Subscribed.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Good call drilling out the hub stud holes. You'll never have to deal with them again.

 

[Boing]

Its funny Justin and I went wheeling last weekend, we walked into carnage and were watching a group of yota's coming up the notch one sheared the hub clean off (on 42's) getting out of that trail is a turd even with a fully running rig, getting towed out is damn near impossible...

I know asking Toyota stuff to handle 40's is asking alot, so for now its all the small details... I know Toyota hardware can handle 40's being gentle, but I want to throttle out little bit this go round, even got a blower for this build... Lets put it this way once its done I don't intend to be nice...

Justin and I have talked at length about just going to Tons or 9" hybrids, however we are going to see how long the yota stuff will last. Once its complete and broke in if it breaks more than three times in a season it will get replaced with something that wont break...

Since we have built a few axles now I would be very interested in building a 9" hybrid with 60 knuckles and big RCV birfs, I think it would be very strong and lite...


Also I appreciate all the feedback guy's its what keeps me going when working on the junk gets tuff...

 

[Uncle Ben]

I can tell you that the weak link will be the 30 spine rear axles. I have lost confidence in them after snapping a Poly long side in South Dakota. Even though I was on Hal Johns I wasn't over pushing them at all! The low end torque of the SC'ed 3.4 needs hardware! Ben was there...ask him! (He has seen the broken parts too) I have a path in mind and it does involve 35 spine axles but it will still be mostly Yota!

 

[Boing]

I believe/agree with you on the rear end axle size. For the sake of conversation what combo are you thinking of building, something similar to Ben Swain's setup (semi float and a spool) or using (35 spline) Dana 44 side gears in an ARB?

I dont think Toyota spindles will accommodate bigger diameter axle shafts (thats why I asked the above question). I have been thinking about swapping side gears in the ARB, however I would have to cut the ends off the axle housing to add a larger spindle.

 

[the One]

Nice build up man.......wish i can get a set of these rubber....damn..nice.......]



subscribed...

 

[Isotel]

For the sake of conversation what combo are you thinking of building,QUOTE]

Hint: ARB, 10.5", 36 Splines.

 

[Boing]

I am not going to mess with new Tundra stuff, for several reasons first of which the chunk would cost a as much as an upgraded 9" third. Secondly does it have a pinion support (ala 9" or 14 bolt)? If I just wanted a big gears without the support I can just run Dana stuff... That and I dont know what aftermarket support it has (I need 5.29's)...

Also if I want to make one full float I'll have to use D70 or 14Bolt spindles to clear a slightly smaller axle shaft, for me I would rather use the domestic iron.... I would really like to build a 9" rear with a thrust block and cone hubs...

For now I am going to build what I have got, I'll upgrade as I break...

My first work around, have the ends cut off the rear axle and have D70 spindles and hubs put on, would also replace the arb side gears with 35 spline D44.

 

[Isotel]

If im going to Spend Big money, im going to go with 9"/60 based stuff too..

But "if" you want to keep it toyota.. you can do it now with Beef 3rds!

the ARB and Gearsets have just recently hit the market.

Any time you are working on the truck give me a call!

 

[Boing]

Hub Machine-worx

Chucked the front hubs into a large "J"-head Bridgeport, almost forgot to snap a picture until I was working on the second hub...

It has a nice DRO which makes finding & opening these holes cake...

I am not power tapping these holes, rather just using the DRO to locate where they are and then start the tap square. In fact the head is in neutral and I started it by turning the chuck with both hands. After it was started I used a large tap driver and some oil to get quite a ways down the hole. I'll finish them with a fresh bottoming tap...

 

[Boing]

Completed tapping the hubs, alot of cutting oil later they have threads to the bottom and are clean as a whistle. Next step will be getting some bearings and lug studs... Once the hubs are complete I'll continue mocking up the front axle...

 

[Okiyota]

Don't buy lug studs yet, let me get home first, i still have the ones from the pre-runner (OBVIOUSLY never got used!), don't remember what size they are but if they'll work you can have those ones, i think there's 30 of them? If you want to check them out before i get home, they are under the patio, right side wall, yellow boxes (little box).

 

[Boing]

Also turned down the OD of the Hubs to accommodate the rotors, accidentally got a little sloppy (should have been taking more measurements) was supposed to be be 6.680" however I wound up with 6.642. So they are a little small, they may be used for mock-up and as hot spares (we will see, still kicking myself for not getting it right). About a fat 32nd small on the OD, I imagine this size it what sets the rotor inside the hub so it probably needs to be perfect...

 

[Slowerthanu]

Also turned down the OD of the Hubs to accommodate the rotors, accidentally got a little sloppy (should have been taking more measurements) was supposed to be be 6.680" however I wound up with 6.642. So they are a little small, they may be used for mock-up and as hot spares (we will see, still kicking myself for not getting it right). About a fat 32nd small on the OD, I imagine this size it what sets the rotor inside the hub so it probably needs to be perfect...

Well, that sucks. The up sized studs looked clean too.

I may have missed it but are you planning on vented rotors with this setup?

 

[Boing]

I am going to use these hubs for mock-up and as spares... I'll get another 4 hubs and machine them down correctly/not rush it...

I am going to use Brian's brake kit, and Lexus GX470 rotors and calipers for 17" wheels, in his kit the rotor slides over the front of the hub instead of being bolted onto the back side...

Took some measurements last night at the local Auto-Zone, 2006 GX470 (with 17" wheels) thickness of the rotor on the top of the hat is .244", lug stud holes on the rotor are .527" in diameter.


I already wanted to switch to some aftermarket longer racing lugs that are SAE, so I might be able to make a spacer that its OD is .527 and its ID is .501... Then tack weld the spacer to the hub so that it can't leave. The spacer along with the wheel being torqued down would keep the rotor from becoming unbalanced.
So this leaves me with two different options...
I can get lugs that have a considerably longer knurled area, the original lugs are only knurled halfway through the hole, so I can add the entire hole length in the hub plus .240 -.244 of the rotor hat.
Or I could get lug studs that are only knurled the length of the hub so that in a bad situation I could remove the rotor and bolt the wheel back down and drive out/home (the better idea of the two IMO)...

On the other Hubs (lets call them production hubs the OD of the Hub will center the ID of the rotor hat. Although you will still be able to rotate the hub on the lugs (.027) you wont have lateral run out.

The problem with my current hubs is that the rotor could potentially shift creating a unbalanced situation on the hub. With not very round 40's though it may not be noticeable, still not an excuse to have it anything less than perfect...