red beard (2 Viewers)

[franklin40]

door seal on the drivers door. the only complaint i have about the city racer seal is it’s a bit short. i can’t get the ends to stay together. it’s very close but another couple inches on the seal so i could cut it to fit exact would have been nice. other wise great stuff.

the moulding is perfect on the rest of the door though!

now that i don’t have gas sloshing everywhere we took it for a drive

exhaust leaks to be fixed in a couple weeks. now i have to finish the rear door seals and reattach my heater.

 

[45Dougal]

Have you tried glueing them as a butt joint?
Just superglue them end to end before you stretch into place.
The superglue will degrade over time in water of course, and if the seal is silicone then you'll need to find one with an activator.

 

[franklin40]

i tried using the weatherstripping adhesive to butt them together. it just pulls apart. i could try a contact cement for rubber and see if that’ll hold. it does come together but with tension

 

[Racer65]

@Racer65 or anyone else can you help me identify some stuff in my order? i ordered these seals over a year ago and don’t actually see some of these items in my order from then. i don’t know what these are for! View attachment 3476534View attachment 3476535

i did notice i didn’t buy window felts so those are ordered as of tonight

edit: apparently these are the cushions around the swing outs on the lower doors. excellent!! those will be useful!

Rear swing out gate weatherstrips:

Rear Swing Out Gate Weatherstrip Kit for '74 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40

Calm your rattling rear swing out gates with this weatherstrip kit. Reintroducing discontinued part numbers 64922-90302 (2x) and 64964-60010 (3x). Accurate reproduction based on NOS samples. Fits '74 and earlier Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 with swing out gates (as opposed to a drop down gate).

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[franklin40]

that’s were i was able to find those numbers!! thanks

 

[franklin40]

added my go at defrost duct reconstruction to this thread. Interior Heater Ducts FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/interior-heater-ducts-fj40.498486/

i used about 18 inches per side of a rubber hose with a built in copper wire as i couldn’t fine 2 inch shop vac hose. the above thread talked about 2 1/2 foot inch hose. i don’t know if the later heaters used a large diameter. this cost me about $50 CAD for both sides.

now to make a connection from the baffle to the heater. i’m going to try to make my own neoprene sleeve out of an old wet suit.

 

[franklin40]

i also added some weight and sound deadener by means of a trailer mat. but in the process of opening the hatch my handle broke

i have some more mat i’ll make some for up front yet but maybe not tonight.

 

[franklin40]

and finally for tonight i started on the rear door weather stripping. i’ll do the top hatch another night

 

[franklin40]

adjusted my temp gauge tonight. used this thread

FJ40 Early Gauge Adjustment/Calibration

I hope this is helpful post for all of you pre 1972 FJ40 owners. I looked all around for this on mud and did not see anything about it. Have you every looked at your cluster and wondered "where the needle for my oil pressure gauge" or is your fuel gauge always at 1/4 tank even when the key is...

forum.ih8mud.com

after confirming my engine temp is right at the thermostat using a temp gun i made this adjustment. my gauge works as it should but when it’s warm it was pegged to the right. that’s kind of useless. so i made the adjustment to get it to sit at the first bar when warm as per the above thread. pretty simple recalibration!

i also replaced the cluster lights while i was in there. i can see the gauges again!!

i’ve also got a driveline vibration. measured flanges and found my pinion is 5 degrees off the output flange. just happens i have some shims!! maybe this weekend

 

[franklin40]

did the shims tonight to point the pinion up a bit. hope this helps. i also took out the smallest leaf on my springs to see if it’ll help with the jarring ride. i can’t even drink a coffee in it right now because of the bounce!! i dont have much sprung weight so it’s kind of harsh. now it looks a little saggy in the back end but maybe i was a bit stink bug before. i can always put them back in if i don’t like it

anyway i’ll take it for a boot tomorrow and see how it is.

 

[franklin40]

A little update from this morning. My driveline vibrations are completely gone. The truck is smoother and I have all my teeth. I still think I’ll need new shocks at some point but for now it’s much more comfortable to drive.

 

[franklin40]

does this look like a bad heater core?

the hoses look like they’ve leaked in the past but are actually dry

 

[ijonesinsp]

does this look like a bad heater core?

the hoses look like they’ve leaked in the past but are actually dry
View attachment 3486514View attachment 3486515

Looks like a candidate to me.

 

[franklin40]

well i guess nothing is an easy fix of the po would probably have done it.

my turn signals won’t self cancel. i found the pin was very worn. i pulled it out and the other side was very worn too. i welded and ground the pin. now it just catches and jams the wheel but still doesn’t self cancel. in the end i had to pull the pin out. i wonder if the cams are too worn too.

i also wanted to assess my horn. the button doesn’t depress at all. i assume it should? when i took it apart i found the rubber insulator is toast and the spring pin is totally worn out. those will need to be replaced but i still don’t get why the horn button doesn’t move. any insight or known threads to fix this issue?

my wheel is in pretty rough shape too.

 

[45Dougal]

does this look like a bad heater core?

the hoses look like they’ve leaked in the past but are actually dry
View attachment 3486514View attachment 3486515

Looks too clean to me. My coolant is very green, and leaves a rusty deposit anywhere it leaks out. Are you sure it's not your cowl vent leaking or windscreen rubber?

 

[franklin40]

it’s been parked inside the garage all weekend and it hasnt had any rain or snow on it for a few weeks as it’s been quite dry here. i’m pretty sure it’s coolant

 

[South Texas 97]

Removing the heater box is not too big of a deal. Just get the gear shift and transfer case levers down and out of the way. I put mine in reverse and low range and I could finagle the entire box out. I did remove the duct from the fan in the engine compartmen, which gave me more space. It was a worthwhile mini project. To remove clean and replace foam elements, and thoroughly rinse the heater core.

 

[45Dougal]

You could try removing the pipes in the engine bay and cap them off, and then blast clean water through the matrix with a hose pipe to confirm before disassembly.
There are of course various radiator fix products out there if you want to try a temporary solution.

 

[ijonesinsp]

I am also diving down this path with my front and rear heaters. I am planning on a CLR or muratic acid soak and then flush and air test in a tank. I don't think mine are leaking, but they're out and it's only the logical thing to do.

 

[franklin40]

Yeah I’ll need to pull it out i think. It just getting cold here and i just finished getting all the ducting rebuild and in place and was hoping to just drive it for a while. Oh well next project on the docket!!. I might just get a new core for it so i dont have too much down time but i’ll see.