Rebuilding E-Lockers

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Should there be wires coming out of the top of this? Does this bolt on the side have to come off to get the locker off? If not, seems the PO is keeping his streak of FAIL alive by putting RTV all over the mating surface.

I have the 2 bottom bolts/nuts off and two of the same on the top so the wire stay is released. Is there another one that I am missing?
 
Should have wires to it. That’s the sensor with spring loaded detent ball to let the computer know it’s locked or unlocked.

Or if you are talking about the rubber hose. That is the breather for the locker.
 
Finally got it worked free with some pry bars and a lot of back and forth with a mallet.

Seems I have ripped all the wires off and they are nowhere to be found. Classic.
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@Cass007, Just as an FYI, that front locker wiring harness that your missing is NLA from Toyota.
 
Has any body found a source for replacement OEM harness connectors?
I'm looking to retro fit E lockers into my 80 shortly and will be building partial harnesses. Would like to keep the locker actuator harness original, and build from there
 
richardlillard1 said:
when did that happen, I just bought one a few months ago?
Click to expand...
Back in 2015 right after i bought my 1994 i had a problem with my front locker. It turned out to be a bad front harness from the locker going up to the inner fender well connector. I called not only My local Toyota dealership looking for a new one, but a Lexus dealership too, and they both told me the same thing, That front harness P/N 82164-60012 had been discontinued, and was no longer available from the factory. I ended up buying a used one from a local Mud member to get my locker working again. Below is a link to my thread from 2015.
forum.ih8mud.com

New Owner Needs some Help with front diff lock

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
@Rifleman - Well, that doesn't make things any easier. Usual problem for me, never just A to B. Will try to search for the wires again today with a better flashlight. You said they head up into the fender? I keep expecting to see something dangling there, but don't see anything.
 
Took a quick look inside the locker to make sure the problem wasn't mechanical as well as electrical. Looks as good as it could. Popped on some new gaskets and put it back together.

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Top looked so good I didn't bother with the other half. The gear moved just slightly when I was putting the top piece back on so the teeth didn't want to line up on re-install. Figure it's coming off anyway to get the new clips and harness parts so I had to find a quick solution.

This is what you get when @NLXTACY doesn't make a block off plate yet ...
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A nice snug fit that should keep things dry until I can get it to the shop.
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NLXTACY said:
If you do decide to repair yourself:
absolute-wits-end.com

Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit-8in Diff

Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit-8in Diff (LRK-1)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com

absolute-wits-end.com

Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit- 9.5in Diff

Toyota E-Locker Rebuild Kit- 9.5in Diff (LRK-2)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com

absolute-wits-end.com

Body Grease- Molykote 102

Body Grease- Molykote 102 (BGM-102)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com

Biggest issue by far is rust. If it’s not rusty or broken it’s not that bad.
Click to expand...
Hey there NLXTACY, I'm wondering how do I determine which size I have on my truck? Is one for the front and the other for the rear?
 
Cass, I'd split the mechanical side and take a look. My locker motor gear wouldn't turn but I could hear the motor running...just no output. I split everything and the gear shaft was seized to the housing but the motor worked strong enough to load the springs in either direction with no shaft output.

Anyways where I'm going with this is my armature, brushes and magnet all looked as clean as yours and inside the spring/worm gear set up was heavily corroded and locked up. I took my case apart first and saw the corrosion, expecting my motor to be pretty crusted out. Was surprised when I pulled the magnet housing off it was perfectly clean.

Knocked the shaft out of the housing, buffed it with some emery, gave everything a hit with electrical contact cleaner and bead-blasted the springs, caked everything in dialectric grease and works mint now 👌

Pretty sure my e-locker was a perfect example of one out of a soccer mom fully loaded 80 that NEVER got engaged since it left the factory floor. I reckon one that gets used wouldn't have a chance to make the shaft bond to the housing but would still be corroding inside.
 
Cass007 said:
Took a quick look inside the locker to make sure the problem wasn't mechanical as well as electrical. Looks as good as it could. Popped on some new gaskets and put it back together.

View attachment 2231053

View attachment 2231054

Top looked so good I didn't bother with the other half. The gear moved just slightly when I was putting the top piece back on so the teeth didn't want to line up on re-install. Figure it's coming off anyway to get the new clips and harness parts so I had to find a quick solution.

This is what you get when @NLXTACY doesn't make a block off plate yet ...
View attachment 2231055

A nice snug fit that should keep things dry until I can get it to the shop.
View attachment 2231056

View attachment 2231053

View attachment 2231054
Click to expand...

designed one just never made it 🤔
 
mudgudgeon said:
Has any body found a source for replacement OEM harness connectors?
I'm looking to retro fit E lockers into my 80 shortly and will be building partial harnesses. Would like to keep the locker actuator harness original, and build from there
Click to expand...


Differential/actuator side: 90980-11289 (splices: 82998-12430)
Harness side: 90980-11290 (splices: 82998-12440)
 
OGBeno said:
Incorrect.

You can use the later sub-harness: 82164-60013 which is readily available from Toyota.
Click to expand...
So is the part number you listed a part number for 95 to 97 trucks, but will also work on the 93 to 94 trucks? The reason i ask, the dealership told me when i called them 5 years ago that the correct part number for my 94 was 82164-60012 and was listed as NLA on their computer. Or is this just a simple case of a lazy parts counter guy not bothering to check to see if my old part number had been superseded to the part number you listed.
 
OGBeno said:
Differential/actuator side: 90980-11289 (splices: 82998-12430)
Harness side: 90980-11290 (splices: 82998-12440)
Click to expand...

Added an 80 series rear locked axle under my 60 and used harness side parts along with the connector plug for the activation switch.
 
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