New Owner Needs some Help with front diff lock

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Well i am a new owner of a 1994 land cruiser with front and rear lockers. First a little background on my truck, it was owned by a lady in southern CA. from new, till it had 92500 miles it, it now has 101600 miles on it. While the lady owned it she took it to a Toyota dealer and had all maintenance work done by them. The dealer followed the full maintenance schedule on changing or replacing everything at the miles listed per the "A" maintenance schedule in the factory service manual.

Now on to my problem, it would seem that the whole time she owned the truck she never once put the truck in to low range or used the front or rear lockers. I bought a center diff lock switch and installed it and found out that when i switched it on i got no center diff lock light or ABS light on my dash and the front and rear diff lights just flashed when they were turned on. I then tried shifting the TC in to low and got no center diff light on the dash and the front and rear diff lights still just flashed. I read up on this problem here on "Ihatemud" and found out that it could be a problem with a switch on the TC. I removed that switch, tested it with my meter and sure enough, the switch was the problem. I worked the ball on the end of the switch back and forth about 50 times and was able to free it up and now it works.

I reinstalled the switch and now both the center diff lock switch and the low range on the TC works to engage the center diff lock. I then tried the front and read diff locks and i can hear the relay for the front and rear diff locks click once when the rear engages, but when i switch on both the front and rear lockers i don't hear any click from the relay and the light on the dash for the front just flashes. I then got under the truck and tapped on the front diff lock (another member in another thread said this might help) to see if it was stuck and still nothing. So next i got under the truck and removed all four jack stands and drove the truck out to a dirt lot to try some S turns that another member in another thread said might help engage the front diff lock, but it still won't engage.

So where do i go from here to get the front diff lock to work????????
 
DRIVE SOME MORE....BIG FIGURE 8s on dirt, nice and slow engage and off...that is what did. cycle on off on off....then finally steady triple 3
 
Update. Well today i did some work on my non working front diff lock. I removed the front diff lock from the axle and tested it with a battery (per the FSM) to make sure the motor turned in both directions. Motor turned just fine in both directions so i didn't open up the diff lock gear box. I next took a screw driver and used it to move the rack gear inside the axle housing back and forth to make sure it wasn't binding, it's the part that moves the shift fork to lock, and unlock the axle. At first it was really stiff, i think that might have something to do with not being used in 21 years. After moving the rack gear back and forth a few more times it started moving real easy, so it was now time to put the diff lock back on the axle. Next i removed the position switch next to the diff lock to test it to make sure it was working, it's working fine. (It's important to have a copy of the FSM while doing this job) I reinstalled the diff lock and tried it out while having the truck on 4 jack stands. I Started the truck up, engaged the center diff lock, center diff lock light came on solid along with the ABS light. I then turned on the rear diff lock, light came on solid, then turned on the front and rear diff locks, front just stayed flashing. After doing these tests and failing to get the front diff lock working i then removed some of the black electrical tape on the end of the diff lock wiring hagrness. What i found was one wire under the tape was completely broke in two along with two other wires just about to brake. Had i not removed that tape i would have never of seen these bad wires. I now plan to replace that whole harness, PN 82164-60012 with a new one, with any luck lets hope this fixes my non working diff lock. One good thing i do have to say about the work i did today. I now have a much better understanding of how these diff locks work, so it was time very well spent.
 
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Good catch! I just went through a similar problem with my ABS and found a contact in one of the plugs corroded away. These rigs are really starting to show their age but with a little tinkering they can keep going on and on!
 
I spent a few hours today trying to locate a new wiring harness for my front diff lock. After calling a Toyota and Lexus dealer here in town and using some on line dealers, wiring harness P/N 82164-60012 has been discontinued. It seems there are none to be found anywhere in the country.
 
Don't remember off the top of my head, but could get a 7pin or 5pin trailer harness and re-pin them and just make a one.
 
http://www.cruiseryard.com/80-series-lx-450/
http://shop.cruiserparts.net/

Two shops I have had very good luck with, you can just e-mail them and let them know what you are looking for. I've dealt with both and been quite satisfied.

Hope this helps.
I emailed Cruiser yard today and they said they had no diff lock harness's in stock. Cruiser parts has the diff lock computer and dash switch in stock but no wiring harness. Now i need to see if i can find some of the factory harness male and female connectors. Only problem is i don't know what the part numbers are for those connectors. I guess if i can't get the factory connectors i could always swap them out and make a new harness using Packard connectors.
 
http://www.torfab.com/Home.aspx
You can try Torfab, I got some connectors and harness parts from him before. He may be able to help. (Another good guy to work with.)
 
If the wires are still long enough you can contact Beno. There is a small number printed on the connector itself. The number isn't like a regular part number. Give him that number and tell him you need a repair kit. You will receive the plug along with loose wires with a metal pin that snaps in the plug already attached. Then get to soldering.
 
Where are the wires broken, pix would help? The early locker harness isn't as well routed/supported as the later ones, have repaired a few of them.
 
Where are the wires broken, pix would help? The early locker harness isn't as well routed/supported as the later ones, have repaired a few of them.
The wires are broken off right where they enter the plug. I did get a bit of good news last night, another member who had some items for sale a few years back emailed me , he has an old harness that he's going to sell me. Still i think i will take the time to repair mine too. Tool's R Us, i think your right, the routing puts a strain on the ends of the wires, and that's what i think lead to then breaking off right at the connector.
 
If the wires are still long enough you can contact Beno. There is a small number printed on the connector itself. The number isn't like a regular part number. Give him that number and tell him you need a repair kit. You will receive the plug along with loose wires with a metal pin that snaps in the plug already attached. Then get to soldering.
Bmac, i am going to look for those numbers on the connectors and repair my old harness to keep as an extra. Like i said in my other post i am buying a used harness from another member, but if this happened once i think it's a good idea to keep a spare just in case.
 
Final update: Today i got my front diff lock working again. Well i found the source of my problem, it was another broken wire up inside my harness, other then just the broken wires down by the diff lock. The front diff lock harness loops down from the fender well pass the exhaust pipes. What happen is the heat from the exhaust dried out the insulation on the wires causing them to crack and brake in two up inside the harness. The heat insulation on the outside of my harness that,s supposed to protect the wires was so dried out that it just fell apart in my hand when i touched it. So, as an FYI, you might want to check your harness heat insulation too.
 

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