Rebuild or Replace the 1FZ (3 Viewers)

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Panzer

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 14, 2002
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656
Location
Decatur, Texas
This is a theoretical at this point, though the time is coming when I am going to have to do one or the other. I thought that with all the high mileage 80's on this list that we should start compiling some data on:

1.Is it cheaper to rebuild or replace the 1FZ?

2.Any performance improvements available during a rebuild?

3.If you replace the 1FZ (with a low mileage japanese pull out 1FZ) who sells them.

**The replace it with a TBI350 is a whole other thread coming later.
 
Toyota does not offer "long blocks" The biggest assembled piece is a short block. Those sell for $3,384.68. A bare cylinder head is $1,318.66.

An overhaul would be way less for an engine that is not damaged by, say, a rod through the side.


D-
 
repost!!!!

you are not the first to speculate about the end of the line for your 1fz. what i have noticed is that all those who have done so still seem to have perfectly healthy motors many months later.

do a search
 
Gee, thanks Simon.

You just jacked my five thousand dollar sale here...:rolleyes:












:D
 
Dan if you finally sold that shortblock what would you guys use for a coffee table in the break room ? :flipoff2:

Plus if you think that Panzer here is a live sales lead, I can see why Larry has you out back in parts and not out front :D
 
I find it odd that you're only thinking about this now...many years after purchase.

When I bought my truck, one of the ideas in my feeble cranium was that if I were able to keep it from falling apart due to rust/damage, I could always rebuild the engine and get the truck to last another XXX thousand miles and YY years. I figured at the time that the cost of rebuild would be, say, $10K, but that the cost of a new truck about 10 years after initial purchase would be significantlly more than the cost of the rebuild, plus any repairs I would have to make.

So far, I think I've proven myself right. Even if I were to have to rebuild today (after only 7 years), the cost of LC's here has gone up by at least $10K (allowing for sticker vs real buying price). PLUS, I get the benefit of keeping an 80 :D Needless to say, I've not even approached the dead zone with this truck/engine, so I should be good to go for quite a while.
 
semlin said:
Dan if you finally sold that shortblock what would you guys use for a coffee table in the break room ? :flipoff2:


Um, the cylinder head maybe? You know, stack up some oil filter boxes for legs.

Brand new....:flipoff2:
 
THose wouldn't be the valuable oil filters would they dan? .......................
 
concretejungle said:
THose wouldn't be the valuable oil filters would they dan? .......................


Nope,


Them be at my house...;)


Next to the "nice doggy" :D
 
And we all thought eric had the rest of em'..........
 
Oh,

He does.....:D


He made his into a dining room set.......:D
 
this thread should be about getting data to identify the best time to do the HG as a PM item and avoid a costly rebuild.


It's seems to me that it's the HG that usually puts the 1FZ's dick in the dirt!
 
Mine has actually reached the point where the oil is coming out the front and rear mains at 1qt /500 miles. 197,000. Rest of the motor seems fine. Debating between the cost of repair vs. the cost of installing a low mileage replacement motor. (If I can find someone who sells them.)

I did the replacement option on my mini at 84K. and it is still plugging along at 165K. The replacement has outlasted the original motor.
 
Could be. Been too cold and wet for my whiny *** to go looking.
Last time I had a professional mechanic look he said it looked like mainseals were starting to leak. this was at 160K. I'll take a look at the arch seals. I assume this is a common item. Sort of like the arches on the 2F valve covers
 
replacing an otherwise fine motor because of bad seals seems a little rediculous...

at least to me.
 
IF, it is just an oil leak then true. I tend to run my options all the way out to worst case before I start a project. That way if it cost less or is easier than the worst case then I am that much happier. Twisted logic I know. But thats "As good as it gets" in my world.
 
Panzer said:
IF, it is just an oil leak then true. I tend to run my options all the way out to worst case before I start a project. That way if it cost less or is easier than the worst case then I am that much happier. Twisted logic I know. But thats "As good as it gets" in my world.


Pardon me for asking, :flipoff2:


BUT WHAT FAWKIN WORLD YOU LIVIN IN? :flipoff2:

Last time I checked, which granted was a while ago and T Y L E R swears I'm wrong we were rotating on earth. :D
 
I understand the caution. But just where other than a leaky gasket or seal is oil going to come from on an otherwise good engine? :confused:


Panzer said:
IF, it is just an oil leak then true. I tend to run my options all the way out to worst case before I start a project. That way if it cost less or is easier than the worst case then I am that much happier. Twisted logic I know. But thats "As good as it gets" in my world.
 

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