Builds Rebuild of Trusty (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter POPO AGIE
- Start date
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POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #222
The new flywheel bolts were delivered today
Torqued to 80ft/lbs
New clutch disc engine facing side. This is a HD fortified clutch for H diesels that have the same size flywheel clutch disc as the 2F do. Terrain Tamer did not know it would work until they measured 11" the same as I did of the old disc and 10 spline for the H55F or H41/2 transmissions.
Clutch installed and torqued the 8mm bolts to 15 ft/lb
Packed the grove in the TO hub with bearing grease
Attached the TO bearing to the fork with new retaining clips
Torqued to 80ft/lbs
New clutch disc engine facing side. This is a HD fortified clutch for H diesels that have the same size flywheel clutch disc as the 2F do. Terrain Tamer did not know it would work until they measured 11" the same as I did of the old disc and 10 spline for the H55F or H41/2 transmissions.
Clutch installed and torqued the 8mm bolts to 15 ft/lb
Packed the grove in the TO hub with bearing grease
Attached the TO bearing to the fork with new retaining clips
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POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #224
Power cord was just delivered and now the block heater is complete. The one Cummins sells for this motor was very short and expensive, this one is the same as a 6.7 block heater and was less then $40 with 6' cord. Will need to use a tyrap once I know how much cord will be needed. Will be ready for cold Wyoming winters.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #225
Worked on attaching the gear boxes to the bell housing. Got the TO bearing hub lined up onto the bearing cover snout and checked that it is not bound up.
Worked on getting everything aligned and square to start the input shaft through the clutch to the pilot bearing. Put some grease on the pilot journal to help with insertion.
Used alignment bars to get the two faces aligned.
The input shaft would not allow the transmission to get any closer then about 1-3/8" between the faces. Went a got 4 M12x1.25 bolts about 2 inches long and used them to pull the transmission up until the threads ran out on the shank.
Switched to the right bolts and used them to pull it the rest of the way in. I kept checking the spline engagement by rotating the flywheel with a sleever bar against the bell housing and was getting rotation at the parking brake before engaging the dowels. Then pulled the rest of way up and torqued the bolts to 80 ft lb.
Worked on getting everything aligned and square to start the input shaft through the clutch to the pilot bearing. Put some grease on the pilot journal to help with insertion.
Used alignment bars to get the two faces aligned.
The input shaft would not allow the transmission to get any closer then about 1-3/8" between the faces. Went a got 4 M12x1.25 bolts about 2 inches long and used them to pull the transmission up until the threads ran out on the shank.
Switched to the right bolts and used them to pull it the rest of the way in. I kept checking the spline engagement by rotating the flywheel with a sleever bar against the bell housing and was getting rotation at the parking brake before engaging the dowels. Then pulled the rest of way up and torqued the bolts to 80 ft lb.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #226
Worked on getting the assembly. The transmission jack was not rolling the assembly so it took longer then it should have. The water valve for the heater will be replaced.
Cleared the firewall of tubing or other items that are not needed. Remove the parking brake mount from the firewall also since it is being replaced with a floor lever.
Used a small hydraulic jack to roll the transfer case.
Got set down on the front motor mounts
Installed the rear mount on the transmission torqued to 80ft lbs
Installed the crossmember
Put the front tires back on then torqued the bottom nuts on the front motor mounts
Cleared the firewall of tubing or other items that are not needed. Remove the parking brake mount from the firewall also since it is being replaced with a floor lever.
Used a small hydraulic jack to roll the transfer case.
Got set down on the front motor mounts
Installed the rear mount on the transmission torqued to 80ft lbs
Installed the crossmember
Put the front tires back on then torqued the bottom nuts on the front motor mounts
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #227
I have spent the last two days working on the cooling stack. The radiator support was badly tweaked so that to get it as straight as I could.
Fitted the support and radiator with the shroud. The radiator is a 4 core and the shroud is for the spall fan.
Bought new pads and hard ware for the radiator support and chased the threads of the studs.
Set the radiator and support in the mounts and it is leaning back so will need to check the studs for square. More tweaks to be made getting this support right.
Roughing in the first angle iron
Fitted the support and radiator with the shroud. The radiator is a 4 core and the shroud is for the spall fan.
Bought new pads and hard ware for the radiator support and chased the threads of the studs.
Set the radiator and support in the mounts and it is leaning back so will need to check the studs for square. More tweaks to be made getting this support right.
Roughing in the first angle iron
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #228
Drilled and set 2 riv-nuts.
Took everything back apart and cut off the cross bar and the top mesh
Ground off the spot welds and metal flush with the support and see the twist
Had to open the hole up for the drain valve to clear
Before putting the intercooler and radiator I put the support in the workmate and tried to get as much of the twist out.
The cooling stack and support assembled. The radiator fit much better after tweaking and assembling the intercooler supports
Intercooler mounted. Have to trim the angle iron and get it ready to paint.
Took everything back apart and cut off the cross bar and the top mesh
Ground off the spot welds and metal flush with the support and see the twist
Had to open the hole up for the drain valve to clear
Before putting the intercooler and radiator I put the support in the workmate and tried to get as much of the twist out.
The cooling stack and support assembled. The radiator fit much better after tweaking and assembling the intercooler supports
Intercooler mounted. Have to trim the angle iron and get it ready to paint.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Looking good Bill.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #230
Today I took the radiator and the intercooler out of the support and trimmed the angle iron and hit it with a wire wheel and painted the support.
Checked the support studs and they were square with the bottom of the support then looked closer at the the mounts on the frame and they were slopped down.
I got some 3 inch by 1/8" C channel and made some extensions to move the cooling stack toward the motor. I took measurements and decided on a length of the channel and where to put the holes to mount to the frame and for the support. I decided to drill and tap for jacking bolts to adjust the plumb of the stack. Then got some flat bar that fit in the channel to make shims for the radiator support to set on. Used my layout dye to get the holes laid out.
Checked the support studs and they were square with the bottom of the support then looked closer at the the mounts on the frame and they were slopped down.
I got some 3 inch by 1/8" C channel and made some extensions to move the cooling stack toward the motor. I took measurements and decided on a length of the channel and where to put the holes to mount to the frame and for the support. I decided to drill and tap for jacking bolts to adjust the plumb of the stack. Then got some flat bar that fit in the channel to make shims for the radiator support to set on. Used my layout dye to get the holes laid out.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #231
I made the decision to not use the electric fan so I ordered a Quick Draw 18" fan kit. With the mechanical fan I had to lower the radiator to line up with the position of the fan mounted on the pully.
The bolts that came with the kit would not work because the flange on the fan is too close to the clutch to get any of them to start in the holes.
I had to get some 5/16-18 all thread to make studs that were threaded into the fan adapter.
The 1/2-20 plugs were delivered so I installed them today since I am running the H55F.
Cut a length of C-channel with 1/8" flanges a little long then ground until it fit with some persuasion and set on the small lip on the bottom side of the frame.
Laid out and drilled the holes for the studs in the radiator support
Installed the studs in the fan spacer with lock tite on the threads and bottomed out.
Mounted the fan with 1 spacer
The bolts that came with the kit would not work because the flange on the fan is too close to the clutch to get any of them to start in the holes.
I had to get some 5/16-18 all thread to make studs that were threaded into the fan adapter.
The 1/2-20 plugs were delivered so I installed them today since I am running the H55F.
Cut a length of C-channel with 1/8" flanges a little long then ground until it fit with some persuasion and set on the small lip on the bottom side of the frame.
Laid out and drilled the holes for the studs in the radiator support
Installed the studs in the fan spacer with lock tite on the threads and bottomed out.
Mounted the fan with 1 spacer
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #233
I still have not welded that new crossmember for the radiator support and glad I didn't because it is not square to the front grill.
I found a front bib complete and got it installed and bolted to the right fender for support so I can build the tubular fenders.
I got the Toyota diesel badge today and was expecting it being threaded to hold to the grill mesh. No it took push nuts.
Went to Ace first then Toyota in Lander, Wyoming but did not find anything. Went to NAPA and got 2 fender washers that just needed the center hole opened up and some push nuts. The adjusted the spring nuts that were already on the badge so that they would engage the new push nuts and clear the fender washers on the inside of the mesh.
Close up
I found a front bib complete and got it installed and bolted to the right fender for support so I can build the tubular fenders.
I got the Toyota diesel badge today and was expecting it being threaded to hold to the grill mesh. No it took push nuts.
Went to Ace first then Toyota in Lander, Wyoming but did not find anything. Went to NAPA and got 2 fender washers that just needed the center hole opened up and some push nuts. The adjusted the spring nuts that were already on the badge so that they would engage the new push nuts and clear the fender washers on the inside of the mesh.
Close up
Very nice work!
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Looking good.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #238
I could not find the motor mounts for the 2 F bell housing so I ordered a new pair. I also have new bolted and isolators to install.
I had to cut the flange off of the DS mount so it would clear the Cummins adapter plate next to the starter. Started with the chop saw but it struggled to cut through and switched to my grinder.
after grinding the flange off
after grinding for clearance with the adapter plate
After grinding to fit painted to match
I had to cut the flange off of the DS mount so it would clear the Cummins adapter plate next to the starter. Started with the chop saw but it struggled to cut through and switched to my grinder.
after grinding the flange off
after grinding for clearance with the adapter plate
After grinding to fit painted to match
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Try switching your old blade to one of these. It’s scary how fast it cuts. Be careful and make sure object your cutting is secure. Don’t ask!
