Builds Rebuild of Trusty (1 Viewer)

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I`m surprised Yerington even has a hospital. Hope it wasn't serious and glad you made it home.
It was not very big, but I had a white blood count of 25 so they took me to the ER and I spent the night and couple more days resting in the hotel room until my Brother Ubered from the Reno airport on Friday. Helped my load my truck and drove me home. The Drs and Nurses did a very good job to get me through it.
 
Thanks.
I do feel better just irritating and hoping for the ball and chain will be removed on Wed.
 
I started working on the rear axle modification to full float today.
First, I assembled the axle dolly

NEW AXLE DOLLY.jpg



Set up the axle in the cradles and removed the oil seals

AFTER REMOVING THE OIL SEAL.jpg


SEAL REMOVED AND OUTER SLEEVE IN PLACE.jpg


Removed the flange sleeves from both ends of the tube

CUT THE FLANGE BEFORE REMOVING THE SLEEVE.jpg


OUTER SLEEVE REMOVED.jpg
 
I tried to pull the roller bearings with a couple of puller styles I have, but they just would not grip. So I bent the cages and removed the rollers and left the race.

CAGE AND ROLLERS REMOVED FROM THE OUTER RACE.jpg



I tried to bolt on the full floating flange adapters from FROR and found that the bolt pattern for the spindle is not the same as t bolt pattern on the flanges on the axle tube. I will have to weld the adapter flanges to the existing flanges on the tube and keep building. While it is the shop I will get the ends of the tube trimmed and the bearing race remove.

Not the progress I had hoped for.
 
Took a spindle, bolts and the adapters to the shop with the axle housing. These are defiantly weld on adapter flanges.

Will remove the bolt holes from the existing flanges on the housing and make it round, counter bore the back side of the adapter so it will fill flush with the flange on the housing. Then, once the end of the tube is trimmed so the spindle won't contact the housing and the clocking is right for the caliper and the drain slot on the spindle is at 6:00 the adapters will be welded to the housing flanges.
 
Do you have a bearing driver set like this?

s-l300[1].jpg


Attach the handle on the tapered side of the appropriate driver. You'll need a piece of tubing that will slid over the handle and long enough to go through the whole axle housing. Slide the tubing in one end of the housing and attach the bearing driver through the pumpkin opening. Press it up against the race and then drive it out. Easy, peezy!
 
Not that exact type. May just leave the races there they don't hurt anything.
 
I have plenty of options if I want to remove the races. I live in BFE and don't have access to as much. eBay or Amazone.
 
I will order the right style bearing removal kit. Then the problem is getting black pipe locally. I have a choice of Sutherlands or Ace. I could not get black pipe large enough for separation of a Birfield axle shaft. I live in Central Wyoming and a lot of the time I have to order from Granger or other company.

The housing in that photo has the same flanges as mine that will be turned down for welding the adapter flanges too.
 
I can drive to Casper and get a length of pipe from Pacific Steel. I bought 2" square tubing at the Rock Springs site for my shackle reversal I did in college.
 
The bearing races were removed by the shop that installed the flange adapters for the full float conversion.

I just picked up the housed with the flanges welded both inside and outside of the original flange after machining the adapter flanges ID so that they would fit flush the original flanges on the axle tubes.

The inside was stitched welded because of the spindle bolt holes and the ID was seal welded with 2 passes.

FLANGE ADAPTER WELDED 1.jpg
FLANGE ADAPTER WELDED 2.jpg
 
The bearing races were removed by the shop that installed the flange adapters for the full float conversion.

I just picked up the housed with the flanges welded both inside and outside of the original flange after machining the adapter flanges ID so that they would fit flush the original flanges on the axle tubes.

The inside was stitched welded because of the spindle bolt holes and the ID was seal welded with 2 passes.

View attachment 3016701View attachment 3016702
Those flanges look super beefy
 
Yesterday I was in the barn rearranging my work space. I also removed the PS front hub for the new axle build.

Set up jack stands to support the front axle without wheels.

Then I started removing the shocks, shakes and the pins from the rear springs. I also disconnected the rear brake line that I ended up cutting because it would not completely unthread and was not able to unthread at the hard tubing. I was seeing a lot of cracks in the rubber brake line.

One of the upper shock pins broke off when I tried to remove the nut with my impact so it will have to be replaced later.

I have one pin on the DS that is not wanting to come out like it did 30+ years ago the last time I replaced the bushings. I do have it out of the large fit on the outside, but it is fighting every step of the way.

TWO RANCHO 6000 SHOCKS REMOVED ONE HAD NO GAS LEFT.jpg
JACK PLACEMENT.jpg


Had to use the jack to get the pressure off of the bushings to remove the bolt
HAD TO PUT SOME PRESSURE ON THE SPRING TO GET THE BOLT OUT.jpg


LS REAR SHACKLE UPBOLTED FROM EYE.jpg


BOTH REAR SHACKLES ON THE BENCH.jpg
 

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