Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Bump
Reason For Removal of Rear Heater By many? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mickeyt
- Start date
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Well, I should have run and knocked on wood the second I saw this thread.
I had new Magnaflow muffler and hangers installed yesterday. My exhaust guy brings it down off the hoist and while I am paying him I see a nice bright green puddle developing on the ground around where the cats are.
I take a closer look and it is coming over the heat shield. My rear lines are now toast. Bypassing for now, but I do like my rear heater in the winter. This will be a fun job.
I had new Magnaflow muffler and hangers installed yesterday. My exhaust guy brings it down off the hoist and while I am paying him I see a nice bright green puddle developing on the ground around where the cats are.
I take a closer look and it is coming over the heat shield. My rear lines are now toast. Bypassing for now, but I do like my rear heater in the winter. This will be a fun job.
Dang! Better on the lift than on the trail. You live where the environment will indeed be tough on those lines, buit also where it's sure nice to have the rear heat, depending on altitude and humidity to some degree. Good luck!
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Nice timing!
Don't quote me on this but, I think it is possible the two pipes are supplied as one unit? mine fell apart so would not know but, if they are then the welds used to keep them together is the fail point, or more correctly starts off the corrosion process, the paint not adhering too good at this point.
The fuel filler pipe and vent pipe are welded together and this where mine started leaking diesel as it rusted through, coincidence?
Regards
Dave
I had my engine and trans out last summer and replaced the hard & rubber lines. I like having heat in the back for my passengers and it does as mentioned before help with defrosting especially since my rear window defogger is inoperable.
The timing was indeed perfect. Filled up overflow and drove it 20 minutes home.
You are correct, they are supplied as one unit. Kind of expensive to replace for what they are. I will probably just run hoses back to the heater and be done. I remember seeing a procedure for removing the old lines without having to remove transmission. Don't want old crusty disconnected lines still on my 80 for no reason.
I left old crusty disconnected lines on my 80, no scare. 
My understanding is you have to drop the trans to get to them.
Apparently there may be a way to get them out. It is tricky but I remember someone posting about it a while back.
Just after I bought my rig (last August) I noticed a nice red puddle under my passenger side that was not ATF.. so bypass done in 20 min!
Then last month I decided to swap the unused heater for a ARB Twin air compressor!! fits great with a custom mounting plate! I even routed the air line through the hole in the floor that the coolant lines used. Sweet setup!
Then last month I decided to swap the unused heater for a ARB Twin air compressor!! fits great with a custom mounting plate! I even routed the air line through the hole in the floor that the coolant lines used. Sweet setup!
Getting out is tricky, but can be done without removing major parts.
Whether it's the auto tranny or ?, to install requires dropping the tranny AFAIK. Unless you want to pre-pretzel the new ones and try to unwind them after installation...nah, probably not.
I believe this quote/bump/reply is because of what I posted earlier, ..tbh, im not sure what I was thinking exactly at the time, but I obviously had a train of thought going something like this:
Here's a link:
Cooling Systems Corrosion - Application Note - Lytron Inc
I am fearful of using certain metals like brass and especially stainless in the cooling system, because if the coolant were to deteriorate and/or a grounding issue occur, then galvanic corrosion could impact the aluminum head. And the aluminum would loose.
My understanding is that is why "copper & brass" radiators were phased out when aluminum heads came around for this very reason.
A small amount of brass, like on the engine drain plug, isn't a big deal (likely a specific type of brass) , but the more mass of dissimilar metals added to the cooling system, the bigger the impact. It is especially true with stainless steel.
There is also more "bad" chemistry that can happen when the propylene glycol breaks down after sevetal weeks into undesirable acids when coming into contact with certain metals as well.
Generally speaking, the phosphates and other corrosion inhibitors will minimize the risk, but if too much water gets added, a grounding problem happens, or the antifreeze breaks down, the dissimilar metals could cause a problem. All it takes is a few ions in the wrong direction and your engine block becomes a sacrificial annode.
This is my operating philosophy, please correct me if I'm wrong.
I used a Dremel with a cutoff blade and made a few cuts. Was able to get my old rusty one out. Putting a new one in requires a bit more work.
So it sounds like if something happens to the hard lines its significantly easier to replace them with hoses (assuming you want to keep rear heat). Good to know just in case.
I like the rear heat when up in the mountains and when snowy.
I ran hose as a "temporary" fix and it has held up fine. I used a reducer with 1/4" I'd 3-ply hose and ran it up near the heater valve and then down along where the exit pipe ran, because I thought there might be too much rubbing on the trans housing.
I plan on putting in new lines when I drop the trans next (likely do the kick down cable then too)... but so far so good with the workaround. Ymmv
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That's a great reference! I love chemistry, especially now that I don't get a grade for considering it. However, I think this is what you're referring to (not the definitive source, it's just the first item on the search list): Galvanic Corrosion | Penn Engineering
I don't remember any grounds attached to the head. There is one on the block, but the head gasket insulates the head from any current flow. The corrosion referred to in your reference isn't like the current flowing from the battery or alternator. It can't get from the rear heater tubing to the head. Contaminants can migrate, but you're not going to create an electrolytic plating system within the cooling system. If that were possible, everyone would have those problems.
You are correct, if you put aluminum and (any kind of) brass in direct contact, with an electrolyte (even pure water), you'll make a battery and get galvanic corrosion. This isn't going to happen between the heater core(s) and the head. They're too far apart.
