Why not use a standard combination wrench? If you can't move it with the one, hook another in the jaw and double your lever arm.
Everyone here is so fixated on the right socket or impact. Use a wrench.
rear starter bolt ain’t moving (and front is a bitch too) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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Everyone here is so fixated on the right socket or impact. Use a wrench.
I have 3/8" sunex impact wobbles which i use EVERY job on my little makita battery impact. Makes super easy work of the simplest jobs. I'm thinking of picking up a right angle "impact" (usually called an electric ratchet) like you posted for those hard to reach areas where the normal electric impact can't reach.
The big stuff I've always had good luck with breaker bars. I tend to use 12 pt, but the 30 deg vs 60 deg per "notch" doesn't always work out that way since the drive is square. People are correct in saying 6 pt is less likely to round a bolt head, but it is fixing a problem I've never really had. Not sure it makes a huge difference for the weekend warrior...but there is a difference to be had...
The big stuff I've always had good luck with breaker bars. I tend to use 12 pt, but the 30 deg vs 60 deg per "notch" doesn't always work out that way since the drive is square. People are correct in saying 6 pt is less likely to round a bolt head, but it is fixing a problem I've never really had. Not sure it makes a huge difference for the weekend warrior...but there is a difference to be had...
This may not work for everyone but I went through the DS wheel well and used a box end wrench. Took some fiddling but it worked.
The guy's air powered rig in the picture or an Actual 3/8 or 1/2" electric. Those tiny 1/4" hex are weak in comparison and the 1/4" adapters will twist.
Theirs a old saying run what your brung. In other word use what you got like he did and it worked.
My air impacts just set in the bottom drawer, I hate the noise of the gun and the compressor and the hose is a pain in the a**
I love my cordless Makita impacts and have yet to twist a 1/4 adapter.
Everyone will have a different way of getting er done.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #46
hey man, i tried the closed end of a box wrench but the angle wouldn’t let me get any purchase on it. i didn’t have any room and also as you mentioned the level arm is quite short on the 17mm.
i’d be interested in this hook method. that does sound intriguing. actually an actual home made tool to extend a wrench would be great...
- Thread starter
- #47
it wasn’t an issue of the torque. my makita got it off once i jammed the ****ing thing in there for a straight shot.
it was getting something in there with a lever arm that would get out with room to be able to actually move it and/or simply get it over the head if it was an impact in the wheel well.
this is why i just jammed the ****er all the way in.
- Thread starter
- #48
broski! do you have a model number on yours? my brother actually sent me this set and i keep wanting to get the high torque one with the three settings. but every time i set down to look at them there are so many it gets a tad confusing.Theirs a old saying run what your brung. In other word use what you got like he did and it worked.
My air impacts just set in the bottom drawer, I hate the noise of the gun and the compressor and the hose is a pain in the a**
I love my cordless Makita impacts and have yet to twist a 1/4 adapter.
Everyone will have a different way of getting er done.
do you have the high torque 3setting one by any chance?
- Thread starter
- #49
man. dude help me here. i confuse the hell out of myself trying to figure that 12 point versus 6 point in a tight space with a breaker bar.
a 12 point does or does not give you more room to work?
i mean it is actually a NINETY degree rotation you are making in there?! i mean if they made a set of sockets with 8 point breaker bar end then you would be down to a 45 degree rotation instead of a 90?!
- Thread starter
- #51
four thumbs up. thanks. nice.
Technically these are all impact screw guns. And what I use, they are the standard in the industry I worked in for 40 years. They do not have multiple settings.
Makita makes a actual impact gun that only accept sockets, that mite be what your thinking of.
since there are 6 on one side and 4 on the other- you can usually rotate the socket to a different flat and get the square at a different spot each time. -
First, I think I know what your original problem was. It stumped me the first few starters I removed. Once I got it, wrenching became SO MUCH EASIER! You ready...
Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
You're welcome.
Next, you asked for a part number on the Makita impact wrench. I bought one in June. It's good. I have used the red brand and it's more powerful, but there's an entry cost, and the Makita is good. It breaks the heads off stuck bolts just as well as the Milwaukee. Here's a link:
Amazon product ASIN B01NCJQH1I
**Edit: This unit wants the newer generation batteries. If you've got old Makita batteries laying around and you think you'll save money using them, think again. They'll only give you a fraction of the torque. I bought some non-Makita batteries on E-bay after I learned this (after I received the unit) and I've been happy with them. We'll see how long they last compared to Makita brand.
2nd edit: I know you're going to ask. The battery is BL1815N (1.5 AH) or a BL1820B (2.0 AH). It also calls out the BL1830, 1830B, 1840B, 1850B, and 1860B. I was running earlier model BL1815. The battery indicator never got past the second bar and the juice just wasn't there. Better battery, better tool performance.
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Yeah that's a hard one. Usually write it on my hand when I work on the 80First, I think I know what your original problem was. It stumped me the first few starters I removed. Once I got it, wrenching became SO MUCH EASIER! You ready...
Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
You're welcome.
Next, you asked for a part number on the Makita impact wrench. I bought one in June. It's good. I have used the red brand and it's more powerful, but there's an entry cost, and the Makita is good. It breaks the heads off stuck bolts just as well as the Milwaukee. Here's a link:
Amazon product ASIN B01NCJQH1I
I always try to use as large a drive as I can to fit in. 3/4 is my go to for big stuff, 1/2" for 35mm to 10mm. 3/8 for 15mm to 10mm, 1/4 mostly below 10mm.
- Thread starter
- #57
First, I think I know what your original problem was. It stumped me the first few starters I removed. Once I got it, wrenching became SO MUCH EASIER! You ready...
Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
You're welcome.
Next, you asked for a part number on the Makita impact wrench. I bought one in June. It's good. I have used the red brand and it's more powerful, but there's an entry cost, and the Makita is good. It breaks the heads off stuck bolts just as well as the Milwaukee. Here's a link:
Amazon product ASIN B01NCJQH1I
**Edit: This unit wants the newer generation batteries. If you've got old Makita batteries laying around and you think you'll save money using them, think again. They'll only give you a fraction of the torque. I bought some non-Makita batteries on E-bay after I learned this (after I received the unit) and I've been happy with them. We'll see how long they last compared to Makita brand.
2nd edit: I know you're going to ask. The battery is BL1815N (1.5 AH) or a BL1820B (2.0 AH). It also calls out the BL1830, 1830B, 1840B, 1850B, and 1860B. I was running earlier model BL1815. The battery indicator never got past the second bar and the juice just wasn't there. Better battery, better tool performance.
thanks. i will definitely admit to needing to have a think about rotation once in awhile crawling around down there trying to get leverage.
i took off a big end on an old bmw motorcycle with a 12 point i had to buy for the job and when i went to the other side i definitely horked on it in the wrong direction for further than i would have expected for some dumb reason. i guess i was distracted. when it goes back together i think it is going to get a new retainer in addition to new bolts.
and for sure i’ve done this on the 80 a bunch of times.
can i just ask you if you are a makita guy if they make this as a brushed motor? i was hearing the brushed motors are more durable than the brushless for some reason. usually i just buy the corded used makita and if it turns on and sound i’m ok at the tight price so i am a bit out if my league with the new battery stuff.
I've got Makita tools I've operated for more than 10 years. I'm a home handyman and help friends and neighbors, so it's not super heavy use. They're still great. I think they all have strengths and weaknesses. Get what you love and don't look back. When you don't love it anymore, get something different or adjust your expectations. It's works better for drills and cars than relationships, but it works.
I think Makita is great value for the money. You can spend more and get more, but are you getting twice the value for the way you use it for twice the price? Makita hits my value curve right now.
I think Makita is great value for the money. You can spend more and get more, but are you getting twice the value for the way you use it for twice the price? Makita hits my value curve right now.
Whole other topic, but do the Milwaukee cordless tools cost more than the Makita? Seems like the same pricing there. Far more mechanics tools available in Milwaukee than Makita. For Ingersoll Rand cordless, Mac, Snap On, the price just goes way up, and I don't think you get much over Milwaukee for those names. Makita was the only choice in like 1995. They've been losing market share ever since to Milwaukee.
$223 vs. $149 on Amazon. It's the principle, not the number. For the way I use it, is it worth the cost? Plus chargers...I'd like to have a Milwaukee, but right now the $70 is better used elsewhere when I consider my use case. I think everyone has to weigh that.
