Rear spring changeout 100 series (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 1956
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It is. Just be sure you have solid Jack stands that are big enough to reach the frame(6 ton minimum), placed usually just in front if the lower control arm mount. Remove lower shock bolt to allow the axle to droop enough, and don't expect to get the frame high enough to lift that rear tire off the ground. I have to lift from the axle, set the stands as high as I can/that is safe, then remove tire and let the jack down. I also un bolt the bracket that holds the hard brake line just above the axle and the bracket that guides the parking brake line to allow it to fully droop. You may have to step on the axle to push it down as the bushings will bind a little. You can do one side at a time or both if you're swapping sides or just want to do both. Here's a recent pic from when I added air lift springs and swapped my coils side to side.
Edit: if you do both sides like above, be sure to check both brake lines, that they're not stretched. In the pic above it looks like one of my brake lines might be stretched
.You also don't need two floor jacks but I had them so I used them. I did it once with two bottle jacks only and i almost didn't get the axle back up off the ground because it went lower than the Jack. But you can lift it by hand a little when its like this.
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Thanks Brandon , got it SussedIt is. Just be sure you have solid Jack stands that are big enough to reach the frame(6 ton minimum), placed usually just in front if the lower control arm mount. Remove lower shock bolt to allow the axle to droop enough, and don't expect to get the frame high enough to lift that rear tire off the ground. I have to lift from the axle, set the stands as high as I can/that is safe, then remove tire and let the jack down. I also un bolt the bracket that holds the hard brake line just above the axle and the bracket that guides the parking brake line to allow it to fully droop. You may have to step on the axle to push it down as the bushings will bind a little. You can do one side at a time or both if you're swapping sides or just want to do both. Here's a recent pic from when I added air lift springs and swapped my coils side to side.
View attachment 2346488
Edit: if you do both sides like above, be sure to check both brake lines, that they're not stretched. In the pic above it looks like one of my brake lines might be stretched
You also don't need two floor jacks but I had them so I used them. I did it once with two bottle jacks only and i almost didn't get the axle back up off the ground because it went lower than the Jack. But you can lift it by hand a little when its like this.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Some people (ahem) remove the upper sway bar brackets too. Looks like I've been wasting my time doing that step?
2001LC
SILVER Star
I prefer using "strut spring compressors", rather than disconnecting rear diff breather, brake or AHC parts/lines/brackets. Strut spring compressors, lock on to springs , so popping off spring is not a concern. I just rent them from parts store!
Sway bars! I forgot to mention that. Thanks
Is there enough room to use them??? it looks really tight. I need to do this so was planning on investing on the 6-ton jacks BUT I have the spring compressors so that would save me some $$$. Thanks!
You need jack stands anyway. It's not safe to be working under there with only a jack. Especially once you remove a tire and the springs!
Secondly, spring compressors can be dangerous if they slip as im sure you know, and the LC springs are quite large diameter wire so they don't fit the spring compressors well. The AHC springs would likely be fine since they're much thinner but not regular Land Cruiser springs IMO.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
This is good information. Airbags to help with towing (when we eventually purchase a trailer) will be something that is on the list to add. Was curious how involved it was to get them out and whatnot.
Debating if I want to toss the OME shocks while I do that and throw on some ToughDog instead. I know that lots of people talk about a decent improvement in ride quality when "upgrading" the shocks from the standard OME. Will likely be a "while I'm in there" scenario since I will have the shocks out anyways.
Debating if I want to toss the OME shocks while I do that and throw on some ToughDog instead. I know that lots of people talk about a decent improvement in ride quality when "upgrading" the shocks from the standard OME. Will likely be a "while I'm in there" scenario since I will have the shocks out anyways.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I own spring compressors, and I can swap my rear springs using basically the method above in the time it takes me to install and remove the compressors. I can't see using a dangerous implement with no real benefit, but that's just me.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I assume you swapped your coils to correct a height disparity. Which coil did you end up with on which side, and are you happy with the results? I ask because I have the same coils, and have read differing opinions on orientation on US vehicles.It is. Just be sure you have solid Jack stands that are big enough to reach the frame(6 ton minimum), placed usually just in front if the lower control arm mount. Remove lower shock bolt to allow the axle to droop enough, and don't expect to get the frame high enough to lift that rear tire off the ground. I have to lift from the axle, set the stands as high as I can/that is safe, then remove tire and let the jack down. I also un bolt the bracket that holds the hard brake line just above the axle and the bracket that guides the parking brake line to allow it to fully droop. You may have to step on the axle to push it down as the bushings will bind a little. You can do one side at a time or both if you're swapping sides or just want to do both. Here's a recent pic from when I added air lift springs and swapped my coils side to side.
View attachment 2346488
Edit: if you do both sides like above, be sure to check both brake lines, that they're not stretched. In the pic above it looks like one of my brake lines might be stretched
You also don't need two floor jacks but I had them so I used them. I did it once with two bottle jacks only and i almost didn't get the axle back up off the ground because it went lower than the Jack. But you can lift it by hand a little when its like this.
If the shocks are coming out then yes, upgrade them. But the hardest part about the rear shocks is removing the top bolt. You can swap shocks without even jacking up the vehicle. Remove the spare tire to gain access to the tops and unbolt the shocks. Dealing with the springs only requires unbolting bottom of shock which is trivial. So even though it seems related(springs and shocks), from a workflow perspective, they aren't really related. Go ahead and put shocks on later. Btw be sure to get you a ratcheting 22mm wrench and a ratcheting 19mm wrench. I spent two hours on the top shock bolts because I didn't have those wrenches, turning the nuts 1/12 of a turn at a time with a regular wrench. Stock nut size was 22 and the foam cell nuts were 19mm. It doesn't have to have a flexible head. I could have spent 20 bucks at home depot for both wrenches and saved tons of time.
I originally put them on as directed, ie driver side went on the driver side(left).
I swapped them because the driver side was about .5 to .75 inch lower than the passenger, but it made no difference swapping them. Still about .5 inch difference, with driver side of the vehicle lower. If you read my build thread, I couldn't identify any difference in height or thickness or number of wraps in my springs when installing.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info. I have my DS on the driver's side, but given the mixed messages I've been wondering if that's correct.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yup, those were on the agenda for tool purchase soon anyway as everyone I have talked with said that tops are a bitch to get to and ratcheting, pivot head wrenches were a lifesaver. Just wondering should they be "normal" length or long handle?
Thank you s
UPDATE: Was able to do this last night in about 3hrs doing one side at a time.....those jacks earned their worth...boy they were in compression!!! Putting the springs back was a little of a challenge but I was able to do it. Work of caution: I replaced w/ ironman's coil springs so if you are doing this in your garage make sure you will have enough clearance to not hit the garage door when exiting. Truck rear was definitely higher on the rear and I didn't have clearance so I think I busted my garage door when getting out only way to get it out!
Regardless was a great project that I was able to do thanks to all of your help...this site is priceless!
Thank you so much! Went ahead and purchase some better jacks 6 & 12 tons that will help getting the truck stable to do one side at a time. You guys are awesome!!
UPDATE: Was able to do this last night in about 3hrs doing one side at a time.....those jacks earned their worth...boy they were in compression!!! Putting the springs back was a little of a challenge but I was able to do it. Work of caution: I replaced w/ ironman's coil springs so if you are doing this in your garage make sure you will have enough clearance to not hit the garage door when exiting. Truck rear was definitely higher on the rear and I didn't have clearance so I think I busted my garage door when getting out
only way to get it out!Regardless was a great project that I was able to do thanks to all of your help...this site is priceless!
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I felt the normal length would have been fine. As the wrench gets bigger it gets longer too. Too long might get in the way.
Alternatively someone has instructions on how to drill an access hole from under the rear carpet to get at it with a socket wrench. I'll be doing that for next time.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
If you find that post, please repost/link here.
10 Minute Rear Shock Install
I received my Slee 2.5" kit last week and installed the front shocks, torsions, and diff drop. I've been procrastinating on the rear because I've read what a "PITA" they are to install. I messed with the top nut on the rear drivers side for about 15 minutes and quickly got frustrated. I...
forum.ih8mud.com
I swear I left the wheels on , disconnected the sway bar and shocks , used a jack to do one side then the other.
getting old so I could be miss remembering
I was removing my AHC at the time, bought a compact saw all (Rigid) and some Torch blades.
Cut the top of the AHC shock off at the nut, definitely things could go wrong in a hurry using that technique. I split several lengths of old fuel line to act a protection for things that could have been damaged if the blade slipped.
1/2 the battle is just getting started, you can’t really make screw it up to bad.
If I recall correctly getting the 863’s in was a little tricky. Seems like the old AHC coils fell out.
getting old so I could be miss remembering
I was removing my AHC at the time, bought a compact saw all (Rigid) and some Torch blades.
Cut the top of the AHC shock off at the nut, definitely things could go wrong in a hurry using that technique. I split several lengths of old fuel line to act a protection for things that could have been damaged if the blade slipped.
1/2 the battle is just getting started, you can’t really make screw it up to bad.
If I recall correctly getting the 863’s in was a little tricky. Seems like the old AHC coils fell out.
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All my jacks topped out before the wheels lifted. I am lifted 2" and on 35s though. I know it can be done with a high lift in the hitch receiver very quickly
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