Rear spring changeout 100 series

[2001LC]

Is there enough room to use them??? it looks really tight. I need to do this so was planning on investing on the 6-ton jacks BUT I have the spring compressors so that would save me some $$$. Thanks!

It is tight. I use them all the time.

But keep in mind I said "Strut spring Compressor". They lock on to springs, so not a danger of popping off.. I place jack stands under frame near rear doors. I disconnect the links and shocks. I place a 3rd jack stand, under rear diff/axle, of side I'm not working as close to outside as I can. Then push down on side I'm working to pull the spring out. The floor jack is use for control. I only press down on axle until I see drop down center brake line and or AHC hit near limit before stretching. It is just when working on drivers side, I use the spring compressor.


Strut Spring Compressor, lock on coils of spring. Much safer than those that don't lock on. They fit tight areas also!

 

[tjb]

I just did this again to add spacers. I’m adding this note to help the community, and to refer to again myself because I wasn’t sure I remembered it right:

On my 2006 LX470, I was able to 1. Disconnect the stabilizer bracket, 2. Remove the lower shock bolt and 3. Drop the axle enough to get the springs out. That’s it - no other stuff needed.

On mine there was just enough slack in the brake lines to do this comfortably without doing anything to them, but I was super careful.

 

[SuperExciteBike]

I just did this again to add spacers. I’m adding this note to help the community, and to refer to again myself because I wasn’t sure I remembered it right:

On my 2006 LX470, I was able to 1. Disconnect the stabilizer bracket, 2. Remove the lower shock bolt and 3. Drop the axle enough to get the springs out. That’s it - no other stuff needed.

On mine there was just enough slack in the brake lines to do this comfortably without doing anything to them, but I was super careful.

Thanks. This is helpful. I am planning to do a rear spring swap this weekend on my 06 LX. Did you use two jacks to tilt the rear or do you only need to drop the axle evenly from the diff?

 

[tjb]

Thanks. This is helpful. I am planning to do a rear spring swap this weekend on my 06 LX. Did you use two jacks to tilt the rear or do you only need to drop the axle evenly from the diff?

If I recall correctly, I jacked under the diff (left the jack there but used jack stands, too) and dropped each side. I had a near worthless HF scissor jack that I used to get the axle back up so I could fit the shock back on.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Thanks. This is helpful. I am planning to do a rear spring swap this weekend on my 06 LX. Did you use two jacks to tilt the rear or do you only need to drop the axle evenly from the diff?

FWIW I set the rear on jack stands (on the frame ahead of the rear arms) Disconnected the sway bar and jacked up on side at a time using a floor jack. It was a little tight but I was able to get both springs out and in.

 

[2001LC]

I chock front tires, place jack stand on each frame rial, just in front of rear LCA pivot point. Remove rear tires.

Then with floor jack under rear diff to take strain off rear stabilizer link/bar. I remove link to stabilizer bar bolt & nut. Tip: replace the link to bar cushion & collar and bolt & nut. If they're factory install, they're most likely over due for refreshing.

I now place a 3rd jack stand under DS LCA bracket near where attached to rear diff.

Then with floor jack under PS of rear diff, for height control of PS. I remove lower bolt from PS rear shock and pop shock off lower stud.

Now PS of diff will drop easily, pivoting off jack stand on DS.

I place a bottle jack between diff and bump stop, and jack diff PS lower. Than R&R PS coil.

Once coil and or spacer in. I then reconnect shock of PS side. You can wait to install bolt in lower shock stud until other-side done, "personal choice". In any case, I use a thread sealer on lower shock bolt and torque in. Even better, replace the lower shock bolt with new OEM.

Now I switch to DS side, placing jack stand under PS diff to lower control arm bracket at diff as my pivot point again.

When working on DS dropping diff. It's very important to watch the drop down flexible brake line and AHC sensor arm. Do not over strain those. This is when a strut coil compressor may be needed. It really depends on what (total length) coil/spacer removing and installing.

In AHC system with 30mm space I use a spring compressor on DS.
If AHC kings coils, no spring compressor needed.
If no AHC, again it depend.

I just have my strut spring compressor kit standing by. They're a free loaner, from most parts stores.

 

[SuperExciteBike]

New rear springs are in. Replaced the stock AHC springs with King springs. Pressure now in spec at 5.9 with temp sensor plugged in. Was previously at 8 with the front runner roof rack and fully loaded ARB drawers.

I used two jackstands and two jacks. Removed one wheel at a time and replaced the springs one side at a time. Disconnected sway bar and disconnected the lower shock bolt on the side I was working on to get a little bit more clearance.

 

[Hake]

It is. Just be sure you have solid Jack stands that are big enough to reach the frame(6 ton minimum), placed usually just in front if the lower control arm mount. Remove lower shock bolt to allow the axle to droop enough, and don't expect to get the frame high enough to lift that rear tire off the ground. I have to lift from the axle, set the stands as high as I can/that is safe, then remove tire and let the jack down. I also un bolt the bracket that holds the hard brake line just above the axle and the bracket that guides the parking brake line to allow it to fully droop. You may have to step on the axle to push it down as the bushings will bind a little. You can do one side at a time or both if you're swapping sides or just want to do both. Here's a recent pic from when I added air lift springs and swapped my coils side to side.
View attachment 2346488

Edit: if you do both sides like above, be sure to check both brake lines, that they're not stretched. In the pic above it looks like one of my brake lines might be stretched.
You also don't need two floor jacks but I had them so I used them. I did it once with two bottle jacks only and i almost didn't get the axle back up off the ground because it went lower than the Jack. But you can lift it by hand a little when its like this.

I attempted to swap out my springs this morning for a different one for the first time, but noticed the brake lines and diff breather maxed out (length). When lifting DS rear axle under the shock mount, I couldn't get enough drop on PS to remove the spring. So you only had to detaching one of the brake hard line brackets, as well as detaching stock diff breather and parking brake brackets? Even if I removed that bracket I was worried the brake hard line would still bend after dropping the axle. Or is there no pressure/pull on the brake lines once that bracket is removed?

FYI, I am dealing with OME heavy rear coil springs previous owner installed with the OME 2.5" lift. No additional armor weight so that spring is waaaay too much for this vehicle right now. I just got the medium springs and hoping that will smooth things out. Will try again tomorrow morning and see if removing all the lines drops the axle further down to release the coil spring. Trying to avoid the compressor unless I have to!

 

[2001LC]

Although the problem you describe, I only have on DS drop. In any case, I use strut spring compressors.
Which most parts stores will have and loan out. I like this type as they have locks (pins).

 

[AlpineAccess]

I attempted to swap out my springs this morning for a different one for the first time, but noticed the brake lines and diff breather maxed out (length). When lifting DS rear axle under the shock mount, I couldn't get enough drop on PS to remove the spring. So you only had to detaching one of the brake hard line brackets, as well as detaching stock diff breather and parking brake brackets? Even if I removed that bracket I was worried the brake hard line would still bend after dropping the axle. Or is there no pressure/pull on the brake lines once that bracket is removed?

FYI, I am dealing with OME heavy rear coil springs previous owner installed with the OME 2.5" lift. No additional armor weight so that spring is waaaay too much for this vehicle right now. I just got the medium springs and hoping that will smooth things out. Will try again tomorrow morning and see if removing all the lines drops the axle further down to release the coil spring. Trying to avoid the compressor unless I have to!

There is no need for a compressor on the rears in a 100 IMO.

Remove the brackets for the brake line. Disconnect sway bar ends. Pull rear shocks. Pull tube off of diff breather or use it as an opportunity to relocate it if you cross water often. (All of this with wheels off).

Drop axle down keeping an eye on the brake line to not catch. Pull coil and install new one on passenger side (diff bias to this side). Then put jack under hub and jack it up a few pumps but not enough to take any weight off jackstand. Push coil in on driver's side.

Assembly in reverse.

I have done 4 different sets of springs on mine.

 

[Hake]

There is no need for a compressor on the rears in a 100 IMO.

Remove the brackets for the brake line. Disconnect sway bar ends. Pull rear shocks. Pull tube off of diff breather or use it as an opportunity to relocate it if you cross water often. (All of this with wheels off).

Drop axle down keeping an eye on the brake line to not catch. Pull coil and install new one on passenger side (diff bias to this side). Then put jack under hub and jack it up a few pumps but not enough to take any weight off jackstand. Push coil in on driver's side.

Assembly in reverse.

I have done 4 different sets of springs on mine.

Ok, so its the rear shock thats keeping it from dropping further. Makes sense. I already attempted coil strut compressor rental this morning like pictured above, but these beefy OME heavy springs won't escape with the compressor on. I have repositioned several times with no luck. I think the axle is just not dropping enough. Off with the rear shocks then! I appreciate everyone's suggestions!

 

[AlpineAccess]

Ok, so its the rear shock thats keeping it from dropping further. Makes sense. I already attempted coil strut compressor rental this morning like pictured above, but these beefy OME heavy springs won't escape with the compressor on. I have repositioned several times with no luck. I think the axle is just not dropping enough. Off with the rear shocks then! I appreciate everyone's suggestions!

Yep that's what's limiting it for sure. To make it easier you can remove the lower shock bolt and put dish soap on the lower shock mount and tap it off. The upper bushing will give enough. Removing the shock top is a pain.

 

[Hake]

Yep that's what's limiting it for sure. To make it easier you can remove the lower shock bolt and put dish soap on the lower shock mount and tap it off. The upper bushing will give enough. Removing the shock top is a pain.

Got it done. Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. Didn’t even need the spring compressor after dropping the shocks. Now the medium springs are in, rides level and much more compliant.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Mine was pretty easy so this thread was making me nervous that I strained some component when I did mine hahah.

I removed the sway bar, and the lower shock mount though. Put the frame on jack stands and removed both rear tires. Put a jack under the opposing side of the axle and was easily able to swap both springs

 

[Hake]

Mine was pretty easy so this thread was making me nervous that I strained some component when I did mine hahah.

I removed the sway bar, and the lower shock mount though. Put the frame on jack stands and removed both rear tires. Put a jack under the opposing side of the axle and was easily able to swap both springs

Oh, it was easy once I got the lower shock out. Before that, I made it way too hard for myself lol.

 

[kwon-offroad]

Don't be a putz and use spring compressors. Don't be a even bigger putz and borrow spring compressors on loan from a store/shop. You have no idea what those have been through and even under light load can cause serious damage when they fail.

You do not need spring compressors to R&R rear springs.

Don't be a putz.

 

[Joe422]

Don't be a putz and use spring compressors. Don't be a even bigger putz and borrow spring compressors on loan from a store/shop. You have no idea what those have been through and even under light load can cause serious damage when they fail.

You do not need spring compressors to R&R rear springs.

Don't be a putz.

Correct... spring compressors not needed to remove/replace rear springs... nor the shocks either... however do unbolt the sway bar (bracket on the chassis side is pretty easy) , and do watch the brake lines.

 

[Hake]

Correct... spring compressors not needed to remove/replace rear springs... nor the shocks either... however do unbolt the sway bar (bracket on the chassis side is pretty easy) , and do watch the brake lines.

Yep. As I mentioned earlier, once I learned that I had to remove the rear shock from the lower mount, I had all the clearance I needed to remove the rear spring by hand. Easy peasy. Shock removal was required for me with my OME nitrous sport shocks, just not enough travel in those and with a OME heavy spring loading on the opposite side. NO compressor was needed.

 

[2001LC]

Not all 100 series suspension are configured, as the one in your driveway

I work on many different 100 series configuration. Most of the coils I replace, are on AHC system. Wherein when I replace with the longer Toyota AHC coils. I like to add 30MM spacers to each side (@PADDO first suggested this to me). Which is very nice combo to enhance ride and extend life of globes.

Toyota AHC coils w/30mm spacer are ~4" longer, than old stock LX.

When dealing with AHC suspension, installing new OEM Land Cruiser coils and 30mm spacer. Either I use the spring compressor on DS or I "must" release not only drop down flexible brake line (unless longer SS flexables installed), but also the AHC height sensor adjuster arm. Which I prefer not to release either, as sometimes leads to a can of worms, eating up my time.

Personally I find it easier to use spring compressor, when I hit limit on AHC sensor arm and brake line. This only happens on driver side. In any case I never stretch either, especially the flexible brake lines, or it may rupture internally.

Some fear the spring compressors, fearing they'll release and take their head off. Have no fear, when properly attached! Strut spring compressor (which is only type I have in my tool box) have locks. They do take setting up in just the right spot, to fit up in vehicle once on coil for install. Which for me is easy, as I've done dozens.

For most none AHC configurations, spring compressor is not needed. But when needed they're a time saver IMHO.

Tip:
I use a bottle jack to press down rear end, after releasing shock from lower end along cushion/collar from stabilizer bar, while jack/stand braces up diff/axle on opposite side to pivite off of..

Bottle jack, allows me to keep both hand free for R&R of coil, while closely watching brake line(s) and AHC adjustor for limits.

Tip:
Replace rear stabilizer bar cushions collars, bolt and nut, while in there, is a nice touch. Most are past useful life.

 

[jerryb]

So paul isn't the only one, I wouldn't do it without compressors. I only use ones that bolt to the coils themselves.
Floor jack and a crescent wrench, maybe I'm assuming too much. Last time I did it was a tahoe. Didn't touch any nuts or bolts but the compressor's keepers.