Rear main seal questions (1 Viewer)

[Crosslink]

Guys,

I need a little advice on getting my rms replaced. I have a '96 FZJ80 with 165k (and 44 US states). Been leaking a long time; want to do the right thing finally...so: will all of the crankcase have to be drained? Will they have to remove the pan on the tranny? Should I think about doing anything else while this is happening (like changing the gaskets on the engine pans if they don't have to be removed otherwise?) Thanks...GREAT WEBSITE!!

 

[landtank]

It could very well be the upper pan gasket that is the whole leak back there and not the RMS. This does require raising the engine off it's mounts but not all that hard.

 

[Crosslink]

Thanks, Tank. It looks like the weephole on the bellhousing is definitely where the oil is coming out. I assume that weephole is there for the very purpose of indicating that the rear main seal is leaking? and not flooding the flywheel?

 

[landtank]

Exact same probelm with my truck, the pan gasket had failed. Do a search on "arch" as most refer to this as the "arch seal".

 

[loquito]

My 91 is differant than yours as I had one oil pan. I don't know how differant they are, but when mine was leaking I though rear main also. Everyone here on other threads kept stating to check the pan gasket. I believe it was stated that the members have seen few main rear seals as apposed to the oil pan gasket.

I watched the amount of leakage really close for a week.(after cleaning the area) Then I tightened the oil pan bolts alittle at a time then watched for the remainder of the week. Each progressive tightening resulted in less leakage which for me narrowed the leak down to the oil pan. I ordered the gasket from NM and after putting it one had no more leaks
Good luck.
Enjoy your cruiser
S

 

[Crosslink]

Thanks,

I may just try the slow tightening trick. Can't hurt. The $900 saved just may be my own...

 

[cruiserdan]

That will not work with a pan sealed by FIPG. It will need to come out.

 

[Bear80]

I'd really doubt the rear main is the problem. My '97 and my dad's '95 both leak as you're describing. He had the dealer replace his seal and still it leaks, we always thought they did a crap job getting the seal seated right. I know on my '94 4runner with 250k the rear main still looked dry and same for my '86 truck at 220k when the engine was replaced. But who knows these where two different engines but I belive the rear main seal is a quality toyota build and shouldn't be leaking.

I might try looking at the pan gasket closer too.

 

[Rookie2]

The 1FZ's has a lower oil pan (steel) that bolts to the bottom upper oil pan (cast aluminum) which bolts to the bottom of the engine. I'd be cautious about tightening up and over torqueing the bolts. The lower pan bolts are small and would break easily if overtorqued. I'm not sure if the upper pan has steel inserts (I don't think it does), but if the threads are aluminum, I imagine they could strip pretty easily if overtorqued.

If the seepage is small (like little or no accumulation on the garage floor), I might consider leaving it be. This is a pretty big job if you're a two or three banana guy. It would probably set you back a thousand dollar bill to have it done.

Also there doesn't seem to be a definitive way of telling whether it's rear main seal or arch pan leak (as mentioned, it's most typically an arch pan seal leak), as they both seep out of the weep hole at the bottom of the tranny.

As a final note, you might try switching to a motor oil that has seal swellers (I believe Rotella-T has been mentioned) in it. This has made some go away.


Rookie2

 

[landtank]

Considering quite a few of the bolts needing tightening are blind, you won't get far. You should just request the pan be re-sealed.

 

[Rookie2]

Considering quite a few of the bolts needing tightening are blind, you won't get far. You should just request the pan be re-sealed.

If getting to the blind bolts is all it took, it's pretty to remove the lower oil pan for that. But I would have my doubts/concern about going this route.

 

[robbie]

You can also get a small mirror and remove the black plastic inspection plate. with a light look at the area and see if it is the rear main or the pan arch. A real easy job. takes all of 5 minutes to see what the real problem is. later robbie

 

[Crosslink]

Thanks to all of you guys. I won't mess with the bolts. I'll do the inspection cover thing first. I already paid the dealer to diagnose the problem...hmmm...oh yeah, those are the geniuses who told me that my catalytic converters were bad when they needed a $2 gasket...(check engine code condition)...

 

[landtank]

Where are you located, I could use some extra cash.

 

[loquito]

That will not work with a pan sealed by FIPG. It will need to come out.


So there are differances?
Boy I need to get a manual.

S

 

[cruiserdan]

With gasketed components there can be a bit of "wiggle room" and a potential to compress the gasket further. In the case of components assembled with liquid sealer the opposing surfaces have already been assembled at "minimum" clearances. There is nowhere left to go.

 

[Beowulf]

Loquito,

Man, you're killing me with all these non-quoted quotes. Either use the Quote button or somehow indicate when you're pulling in comments of others.

And yes, you need a FSM.

-B-