Rear heater paint code (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Headlights are roundeye's. What was the cruiser corps sheen like? The cygnus paint I got from c corps was bone dry flat. Luckily I had a can of clear coat to cover it.
 
I also wonder if the old paint has yellowed any? In the first pic, I shined a bright light and the colors seemed a closer match. Perhaps @Living in the Past might remember what the gray paint looked like when these rigs were closer to new. The grey on my 71 is "dappled", as if the darker particles didn't evenly mix with the lighter paint particles. The 76 paint is a more even blend of color.

I honestly don't remember the colors enough to say if it was more grey. Doubt you would ever find a paint code. For one thing Toyota isn't very forthcoming with information and secondly these were a outsourced part from Nippion-Denso. Would get a break down on available parts for the rear heater but not a paint code.
 
The sheen was pretty good, that stuff seems to work best when laid on fairly wet. Cant remember if I wet sanded after...............
 
My rig did not come with the rear heater. Is it possible to piece one together from used parts? I imagine a different connector is required by front heater to run two lines back?
 
Bummer, looks like roundeyes is out of business...............
 
Not sure if you can see the metallic shimmer in the paint I used on my wiper motor. Does the paint you used @thebigredrocker have that? Hard to tell in your photos of the seat backs. Of course not sure how much metallic was used in the original paint seemed pretty monochrome.

IMG_7244.JPG
 
Yes, they mixed T145 with metallic particles. Here's a photo I took after I did a test spray on a seat bracket. I took a pic of the bracket against the underside of the drivers seat bottom with I believe has OEM paint.
IMG_2839.JPG
 
Not having to do the clear coat is worth the price of admission. It is a pain and adds to the time. And with questionable durability what's the point?

Their rattle can isn't that much more (about $3/can) but their shipping is crazy. Is that a $or affiliate? ;)
 
Single stage of course
 
Not having to do the clear coat is worth the price of admission. It is a pain and adds to the time. And with questionable durability what's the point?

Their rattle can isn't that much more (about $3/can) but their shipping is crazy. Is that a $or affiliate? ;)
@ginmtb I don't know but it seems lots of very expensive shipping these days!! SOR is still the worst in that department though:doh:
 
Yes the 1k I bought is single stage. I didn't want to run out so I ordered more cans than I thought I needed. Both times that I've ordered paint APS has shipped it the next day.

As stated earlier, I don't know how durable this paint will be
 
Don't mean to hijack but what is meant by 1K and or 2K paint?
 
My rig did not come with the rear heater. Is it possible to piece one together from used parts? I imagine a different connector is required by front heater to run two lines back?

I added one to my 68 a long time ago. It was all plug and play. The front heater switch had a pigtail that plug into the switch for the rear heater. The rear heater harness plugs into the rear heater switch on the dash and the heater itself. Starting in 74 the rear heater operates on high speed of the front heater switch instead of its own switch. Probably a plug of that switch to plug the rear heater pigtail into. My never checked how it's wired but my 76 does has a rear heater installed from the factory. There is also a two speed version rear heater. Thought it was something the US never got until was working on the ground in my 70 model and realized it had one. Keeping forgetting to check my other rear heater for two speeds.
 
My understanding is 2K means 2 part epoxy. So basically you mix a hardener with the paint and have a limited amount of time to spray until it hardens. The 2k rattlecan from apstower has a patened small chamber inside the main can. You push a button on the bottom of the can that releases the hardener.

POR-15 makes a 2 part that you mix and shoot with a HVLP spraygun. I wanted tough as nails paint on my 76's rims so I tried the POR-15 "Hardnose" in dark grey. They call it something different now. I didn't get it layed down perfectly smooth, but it is bulletproof. I've also read that SPI (Southern Polyeurathanes) has good epoxy and is less costly.
 
My understanding is 2K means 2 part epoxy. So basically you mix a hardener with the paint and have a limited amount of time to spray until it hardens. The 2k rattlecan from apstower has a patened small chamber inside the main can. You push a button on the bottom of the can that releases the hardener.

POR-15 makes a 2 part that you mix and shoot with a HVLP spraygun. I wanted tough as nails paint on my 76's rims so I tried the POR-15 "Hardnose" in dark grey. They call it something different now. I didn't get it layed down perfectly smooth, but it is bulletproof. I've also read that SPI (Southern Polyeurathanes) has good epoxy and is less costly.

Ah....ok thanks man, been around this stuff all my life and never thought to ask what that meant.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom