Dag Nabbit Joe,
Yer fawkin' up our plans...............
Go measure it again...
Yer fawkin' up our plans...............
Go measure it again...
Rear driveshaft
- Thread starter MTNRAT
- Start date
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Dan
Thought we had this worked out?
Just clock the bolt pattern using the original or new 11 mm studs [we didn't even talk if bolts would work].
Sean should purchase a new rear TC output flange, which is then clamped to the end of the FJ60 CV [or any Toy CV]. Measure the smooth [smaller diameter section] section of the 11 mm stud w/calipers - micrometer, and then use the appropriate drill to drill the stud hole. Unclamp flange / CV, install stud, re-attached flange / CV w/nut & also clamp. Then repeating the process & drill the opposing hole, mount stud, secure, and then complete the other two..............
Capice................
Joe
Thought we had this worked out?
Just clock the bolt pattern using the original or new 11 mm studs [we didn't even talk if bolts would work].
Sean should purchase a new rear TC output flange, which is then clamped to the end of the FJ60 CV [or any Toy CV]. Measure the smooth [smaller diameter section] section of the 11 mm stud w/calipers - micrometer, and then use the appropriate drill to drill the stud hole. Unclamp flange / CV, install stud, re-attached flange / CV w/nut & also clamp. Then repeating the process & drill the opposing hole, mount stud, secure, and then complete the other two..............
Capice................
Joe
Of course we discussed it...
That minor detail DOES NOT prevent me from jacking with you..........
That minor detail DOES NOT prevent me from jacking with you..........
- Thread starter
- #24
Well I'll be fawked. a custom DS is looking more in the cards??? Wait, I think I'm getting this. Cdan, rear TC output flange?
Sean
Sean
Joe and I discussed this at length this afternoon. The end result was a shared opinion that it would likely be possible to "re-clock" the flange mounting holes. In essence, the original studs would be driven out of the flange and the driveshaft flange would then be fitted to the transfer output flange at about a 45 degree offset and the holes would then be marked on the transfer flange and re-drilled. If the original studs survived removall they could then be fitted into the new holes. If they ended up being not re-usable we further surmized that early 40 series rear output studs (in 11mm) could be used in place of the original studs. This would be necessary as the 80 series flange studs are not serviced without buying a flange.
The main drawback to this mod is that the flange can not be removed without removing the rear output housing, it is not secured with a nut as the earlier transfers and all diffs are.
The main drawback to this mod is that the flange can not be removed without removing the rear output housing, it is not secured with a nut as the earlier transfers and all diffs are.
- Thread starter
- #26
I was looking at the FSM, that looks fairly intrusive. Why not just have a custom DS with a double cardan made?
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
Sean
This is why I suggested buying a new flange - so you can drive the cruiser while you modify the new flange, and then complete the install.
For the custom made shaft, can you get a CV with that bolt circle / pattern, and if not - then machining costs will make the shaft expensive.
Joe
This is why I suggested buying a new flange - so you can drive the cruiser while you modify the new flange, and then complete the install.
For the custom made shaft, can you get a CV with that bolt circle / pattern, and if not - then machining costs will make the shaft expensive.
Joe
This is for CDan ~
Since I have not taken the TC apart on a 80 series yet - so how about this idea: is the rear output flange the same as the front output flange? if so, then you can use the CV shaft from that 4x4 extra cab truck in the rear, just switch flanges. Since this bolt circle / pattern already matches.
I would assume that Toyota at this stage in the game, would have the two the same, but you never know.
Joe
Since I have not taken the TC apart on a 80 series yet - so how about this idea: is the rear output flange the same as the front output flange? if so, then you can use the CV shaft from that 4x4 extra cab truck in the rear, just switch flanges. Since this bolt circle / pattern already matches.
I would assume that Toyota at this stage in the game, would have the two the same, but you never know.
Joe
Maybe I'm not seeing this either, but why couldn't I take the flange off my existing driveline and switch it with the one from the 60? Are the u-joints different?
The 80 series transfer case flanges are actually an integral part of the output shafts and are not removable. In addition, the front and rear output shafts are not the same so a swap front-to-rear is not possible. I have not personally had the rear output apart but Gumby has replaced his output seal recently and he posted about his experience. IIRC it was not a bad job.
Dan, I'm not sure if you're replying to me or to Joe, but I'm talking about the flange on the Drive Shaft. The only problem I could imagine is if the u-joints on the early 60 drive shaft are very different from the u-joints in the 80 drive shaft.
Anyone know?
Anyone know?
You would not be able to use the shaft flange on the CV. The construction of the joint is different and there are no parts serviced for the CV joint so if you mess it up taking it apart you get to toss it in the dustbin and start over.
- Thread starter
- #33
Solution for rear double cardan
Since there is no bolt on solution from other applications, and f'n around with the flanges is way too much work, I got a solution to the double cardan rear driveshaft, from Sleeoffroad. They made one for me that will bolt right up, is the right length, balanced, stronger than the original, ready to go. Being shipped to me today. By far the easiest solution and my old driveshaft can be carried along as a spare. Thanks, Christo, Ben And Robbie.
Cheers,
Sean
Since there is no bolt on solution from other applications, and f'n around with the flanges is way too much work, I got a solution to the double cardan rear driveshaft, from Sleeoffroad. They made one for me that will bolt right up, is the right length, balanced, stronger than the original, ready to go. Being shipped to me today. By far the easiest solution and my old driveshaft can be carried along as a spare. Thanks, Christo, Ben And Robbie.
Cheers,
Sean
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- Thread starter
- #35
They cost about the same as buying a used driveshaft with a double cardan. Getting it made to the correct length and balancing it. Our problem is getting the flanges to match. So you would have to get a used 80 series rear driveshaft, have a driveshaft shop weld in a double cardan, make it the correct length and balance it. By going with Slee you get everything new and you know it will fit and be done right. If you are interested give Ben a call. No real savings in doing it yourself and less headaches.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
