Rear control arms - worth upgrading? (1 Viewer)

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May 15, 2019
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Location
Fairfax, VA
My mechanic pointed out that the bushings on my rear upper and lower control arms need to be replaced. I asked about pressing new bushings and it sounds like I might as well replace the control arms. If I'm not planning on lifting the truck or taking it offroad, is there any reason to upgrade from the stock control arms?

Full set of Toyota real control arms is ~$1000, so I'm open to other suggestions/ideas...
 
Check out cruiser outfitters if you want to replace just bushings.

Here's a list of what they carry and the price:


100 Series Control Arm & Panhard Bushings

Front Upper Control Arm
- Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB48632AFT - $28.50/each (4 required/vehicle)
Front Upper Control Arm - OEM Toyota Rubber Part# SUSB48632 - $62.50/each (4 required/vehicle)
Front LCA (Front Side) - Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB48654AFT - $28.50/each (2 required/vehicle)
Front LCA (Front Side) - OEM Toyota Rubber Part# SUSB48654 - $64.50/each (2 required/vehicle)
Front LCA (Back Side) - Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB48655AFT - $38.50/each (2 required/vehicle)
Front LCA (Back Side) - OEM Toyota Rubber Part# SUSB48655 - $67.50/each (2 required/vehicle)
Rear Upper Control Arm - Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB60090AFT - $36.50/each (4 required/vehicle)
Rear Upper Control Arm - OEM Toyota Rubber Part# SUSB60090OEM - $42.50/each (4 req/vehicle)
Rear Lower Control Arm - Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB60100AFT - $38.50/each (4 required/vehicle)
Rear Lower Control Arm - OEM Toyota Rubber Part# SUSB600110OEM - $58.50/each (4 req/veh)
Rear Track Bar/Panhard - Aftermarket Rubber Part# SUSB48740AFT - $34.50/each (2 required/vehicle)
 
So mine also show hairline cracks in the rubber. Would i realistically gain anything by replacing them? I don't feel like there's anything wrong with the way it drives.
 
So mine also show hairline cracks in the rubber. Would i realistically gain anything by replacing them? I don't feel like there's anything wrong with the way it drives.

I think bushings are really tough to tell when they've gone half-bad. In my experience, by the time you can obviously tell by moving with a pry-bar or seeing deep cracks, it's long past due and you've had a harshened ride quality for a long time. The hairline cracks themselves are probably innocuous, but are evidence that the rubber is just old and worn.

If your car has 200k+ miles and you care about it feeling "not old", I think it's a good plan to slowly replace all the bushings, everywhere.


@jlodge I would buy SPC arms if your bushing replacement quote is higher than the SPC pricing. I think a full set of SPC arms with new bushings is around $700. Some of the OEM arms do get tweaked over time/abuse.
 
Might as well replace the ball joints if you're gonna press in new bushings. Just saying.

Edit, just realized you were talking about rears.
 
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Thanks Supra and Plano. I will see if I can find a pair of used real control arms on the classifieds. Otherwise, I will look into new parts.
 
How do you guys feel about upgrading the rear arms versus replacing with OEM? Prices for MetalTech4x4 are around $700 for the rears, which is slightly higher, but if you're replacing might as well upgrade, right? Thoughts?
 
How do you guys feel about upgrading the rear arms versus replacing with OEM? Prices for MetalTech4x4 are around $700 for the rears, which is slightly higher, but if you're replacing might as well upgrade, right? Thoughts?

You can build your own:

DIY Rear Lower Control Arms
 
I replaced my rear control arms around 300k miles. No more wonky handling with the rear axle floating around in worn out bushings 👍

Upper - OEM
Lower - SPC. I sourced these from Summit Racing. They were drop shipped from SPC the next day. Best price I could find when searching for new lowers.
 
If I'm not planning on lifting the truck or taking it offroad, is there any reason to upgrade from the stock control arms?
For your purposes, any “upgrade” would be a downgrade in one or more of the following... weight, longevity, maintenance and noise.
 
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For your purposes, any “upgrade” would be a downgrade in one or more of the following... weight, longevity, maintenance and noise.

Makes sense. In my case, I do offroad and will eventually lift, would this be a good upgrade?
 
@d4nvu Sorry, I mistakenly added your quote to my post. I meant my response for just for the OP. Fixed it.

For you, the Metaltech's would be a suitable upgrade and many are happy with them.

My preference is for OE bushings with upgraded/stronger, fixed length arms. IMO, I don't really need adjustable pinion correction with 2" of lift. I like the low maintenance and longevity of the OE bushings. If those lock nuts on the Johnny Joints loosen.... over time the threaded parts can strip loose.
 
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@d4nvu Sorry, I mistakenly added your quote to my post. I meant my response for just for the OP. Fixed it.

For you, the Metaltech's would be a suitable upgrade and many are happy with them.

My preference is for OE bushings with upgraded/stronger, fixed length arms. IMO, I don't really need adjustable pinion correction with 2" of lift. I like the low maintenance and longevity of the OE bushings. If those lock nuts on the Johnny Joints loosen.... over time the threaded parts can strip loose.

Thanks for the info! It might seem overkill for my intentions with the truck anyways. SPC and OEM seem like a safe route.
 
@d4nvu Sorry, I mistakenly added your quote to my post. I meant my response for just for the OP. Fixed it.

For you, the Metaltech's would be a suitable upgrade and many are happy with them.

My preference is for OE bushings with upgraded/stronger, fixed length arms. IMO, I don't really need adjustable pinion correction with 2" of lift. I like the low maintenance and longevity of the OE bushings. If those lock nuts on the Johnny Joints loosen.... over time the threaded parts can strip loose.

@hoser - What did you put on your rig or which ones do you recommend; e.g. with OE bushings and upgraded/stronger, fixed length arms?

All the bushings are toast on my rig and it's time to replace. I've looked at Trail Tailor, Slee, Wit's End, and Metal Tech. Only the Wit's End (Land Tank) have the OE bushings option (where I was leaning anyway). All the others use poly. SPC appears to use the xAxis sealed flex joint.

TIA
 
I went with Spressofab arms.... there was only a limited run of them. They are 1.5" x .375 wall and the tubing is slightly arched but fixed length.... OEM bushings. If I was to do it over again, I'd go with the same. Pretty much set it and forget it. I think 1.75" x .250 wall would also be fine for most folks.

I'm not against Johnny Joints as I have them on my other LC.... but with the 100, reliability, trouble-free, low-maintenance are key for me.
 
Today I noticed I bent a rear LCA a few weeks back at Fall Crawl. . . don't plan on ever going over 2" rear lift (so don't need adjustable); do off-road some (would like strong).

After a whopping hour or so of research, I think I'd like something stock-length and non-adjustable, stronger than stock. Would love something like the metal-techs or TT LCAs but non-adjustable and with an OEM bushing option. Haven't found anything like that yet. Fixed-length options I'm aware of:

1) SPC--3/16" (.188") wall DOM doesn't sound all that impressive, although I reckon it's a lot stronger than stock--unsure how the bushings in these (rubber bushing at the rear and a sealed flex joint up front) will hold up. Nice and cheap at about $250 shipped from Summit.

2) OME--I can find _no_ details on these. OMELTA3043. Cruiser Outfitters has 'em--I may call tomorrow. $400-ish

3) Wits End--solid bar (which I have in my head as weaker than tubing, but folks say these are plenty strong)--OEM bushings available--$400 with OEM bushings, but not in stock . . . may reach out to him.

Am I missing any?

If I go adjustable, both Metal Tech and TT look super-beefy, but the maintenance of the johnny joints is a big turn off. Just found these Dobinson's arms for 80 series. Rubber bushings in both ends, so maybe a good compromise. Only $300 . . . I know I'd need to drill for 80 series bolts or sleeve mine.

Sorry for vomiting all my ideas on y'all. Currently leaning toward Wits End or Dobinsons. . . thoughts welcome.
 
I've got SPCs and they've been fine for me. They're thicker than OEM FWIW

Thanks! I actually just pulled the trigger on the Dobinsons 80-series ones--with the Black Friday sale, they came to $285 shipped. I'll just need to buy 80 series bolts (18mm vs 14) and a step drill bit to put them on. . . will try to remember to reply here with my sense of them.
 

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