Rear control arms options

[ccslider]

I recently lifted my truck 97 80 series and need to correct pinion angle. I'm at about 25 inches hub center to bottom of flare.

I'm curious about what adjustable arms people have used to correct the pinion?

I like that metal tech is on sale and has the best price but I dont like you having to remove to adjust. People with these, did you find yourself wishing that you could adjust onboard or was it fast enough to just remove to adjust?

I see witsend/landtank has arms that are lower only to adjust for a 4 inch lift. Anyone have experience with these?

Blackhawk or slee are other options that are adjustable on the vehicle. Seem to be about 100+ more than others.

 

[Box Rocket]

I have had the Trail Tailor Adjustable arms (upper and lower) Lowers have to be adjusted "off vehicle" but the uppers are adjustable "on the truck. These are similar to the Metal Tech ones with Johnny Joints on one end and poly bushes on the other. Good quality and strong arms.

I have since replaced them with Blackhawk uppers and Lowers. Lowers are non-adjustable (11mm longer than stock), uppers are adjustable on the vehicle. The blackhawk arms use factory rubber bushings. From my experience they flex as well as the TT ones but the rubber bushings have a smoother ride than the JJ and poly bushes.

If I were doing it again, the Blackhawk would be my first choice and the TT a close second. I'm confident you'd be very happy with either one. I haven't used the Landtank arms so can't speak to those firsthand but have heard good reviews on them.

 

[ccslider]

Thanks for the info. I forgot about trail Taylor.

Blackhawk sounds like the way to go..

 

[Shoredreamer]

Just bought some Landtank units from Wits End!

 

[Saito]

Running Slee’s adjustable uppers that came with their 4” lift and Landtank lowers(from Joey) intended for the same lift height. It’s nice being able to adjust w/o removing. Got the angles all matched up and never had any bad vibes. Even cruising at 85 on the interstate for hours.

 

[notathomie]

I had both adjustable upper control arms fail simultaneously a year ago.

The vibration of rough roads eventually wore down the threads.

When I hit a bump on a steep climb, they disengaged and my axle rotated 80 degrees so the rear differential was pointing up towards the floor under the third row seats.

(After market) Rear upper control arm failure: Disassemble and check for play

I will be welding mine up.

 

[ccslider]

I'm going g to sleeve my lowers and extend to center the axle. Maybe sleeving the uppers is not such a bad idea after reading about everyone having loose jam nuts or just welding anyways.

 

[Box Rocket]

I'm going g to sleeve my lowers and extend to center the axle. Maybe sleeving the uppers is not such a bad idea after reading about everyone having loose jam nuts or just welding anyways.

I wouldn't say "everyone" has had loose jam nuts. I've never had an issue and I personally don't think it's a widespread issue. If you never change lift height again or have any need to correct pinion angle then a solid arm is fine, but maybe just tack weld the jam nut if you're worried about it backing off. That way you can just grind off the tack and re adjust if needed.

 

[ALX4X4]

I just purchased longer lower HD (fixed length) ones so it was fit and forget.

 

[Marco Lau]

i have the Landtank 4" HD LCA, and its beefy!!

 

[baldilocks]

I have MT uppers and lowers. Once they are adjusted, you should not need to mess with them, so needing to remove them to adjust has really been a non-issue. Yes, my upper jam nuts came loose so I tracked them.

IMO, the MT poly bushing set up is sloppy. This causes rapid deterioration of the bushing resultng in the rear axle moving fore and aft enough to actually induce its own steering component. I originally thought this was being caused by my lift but once I cut off the poly bushing eye and welded on an eye that would accept an oem bushing, install new JJ’s (mine were not really worn out yet) and build a rear track bar riser bracket at the axle, my 80 handles much more predictably, smoothly, and I lost no articulation.

The MT arms, particularly the lowers, have the thickest wall you can buy off the internet at .290”. I have pounded mine long and hard for nearly 4 years. They look beat up but remain straight.

 

[ccslider]

i have the Landtank 4" HD LCA, and its beefy!!

I like that. Do you use stock uppers? How's you pinion angle? How high does your truck sit

 

[Marco Lau]

I like that. Do you use stock uppers? How's you pinion angle? How high does your truck sit

yes, stock upper. The pinion angle is close to stock now with no vibration. I have a 3" lift with 30mm spacers on 4 corners

 

[ccslider]

yes, stock upper. The pinion angle is close to stock now with no vibration. I have a 3" lift with 30mm spacers on 4 corners

Can you measure from center of hubto bottom of flare? My 3 inch lift actually gave me 5

 

[Marco Lau]

24" from center of hub to bottom of flares

 

[crikeymike]

Our new adjustable rear lowers and uppers just arrived last week. And our black Friday sale runs until this Friday 11/30/18, use coupon code "BLACKFRIDAY" for 15% off and all shipping is free.

We've been so busy that we haven't announced that these were coming or arrived yet.

They don't adjust on the car either, but once you set them, you won't need to change them again unless you change lift height.

Lowers: https://www.dobinsonsdirect.com/pro...ntrol-arms-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series/

Uppers: https://www.dobinsonsdirect.com/pro...-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series-1990-1997/

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Just finished the Rubicon, Sooooooo happy with the @landtank lower control arms, amazing!

Worth every penny!

 

[1973Guppie]

I have trail tailor @TRAIL TAILOR arms for awhile and have beaten them quite a bit, guessing 5 trips on the con and no issues whatsoever.

N

 

[1973Guppie]

I'm going g to sleeve my lowers and extend to center the axle. Maybe sleeving the uppers is not such a bad idea after reading about everyone having loose jam nuts or just welding anyways.

nothing wrong with this, my lowers had angle iron welded to them for years and they took a beating just fine, only swapped them when I need longer ones