(After market) Rear upper control arm failure: Disassemble and check for play (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Threads
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Location
Costa Rica
Quick summary: if you have a lift kit on your car, you probably have adjustable rear upper control arms. I recommend taking them off and checking for play or thread wear. I found this out the hard way on Sunday. Things I will carry in the tool box from now on: hack saw blade, duct tape (I know, I know) and wire.

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I bought a heavily modified 97 FZJ80 a year ago. The car has a 6" lift so the upper control arms on the rear axle are adjustable.

While driving up a rough mountain road on Sunday, I hit a bump and both upper control arms failed simultaneously.

The threads on the lower part of the control arm had slowly worn away over time, presumably due to 20 years of off road action. With the threads finally gone, the fact that I was going up a steep hill and hit a bump allowed the lower part of the control arms to pop out of the female part of the control arms. (for reference, Slee's website has a DIY part for sale in the suspension section that is similar to what I have. Here is the link: Slee - Toyota 80 Land Cruiser Series Suspension DIY Pieces ).

With my control arms gone, my rear axle rotated back longitudinally 75 degrees, disconnecting my drive shaft so my differential was pointed up and my drive shaft was dragging on the ground.

Thank god this did not happen at speed on a highway.

I called my neighbor who was borrowing my 1990 Hilux while I was in San Jose. He drove down the mountain to help.

I wired up the drive shaft to the strapping that supports the gas tank so the drive shaft would not propeller under the car. (I 'll be damned if there wasn't some heavy wire in the ditch right next to where I broke down). I gunned it in low (now just with two wheel drive) while the Hilux yanked me with a chain. It took us a few tries (and a few milimeters of BFG rubber) but we got the axle rotated back and the springs mounted on the axle again.

We removed the drive shaft and reassembled it. We removed the control arms and put them back together. This was when I figured out the threads had gone, and this is where duct tape would have come in handy. It might have worked like teflon tape on pipe threads. I used my winch to keep the rear axle from rotating back again. I drove back down the hill and left the car a few miles away at a friend's house on the beach.

I looked in the FAQ to see if control arm disassembly and inspection is part of baselining.

I could not find anything so I wanted to post this as a warning to anyone who has an old rig with a lift.

The upper control arm I have is just like the Slee part. Notice how it has only one nut. I think you need two nuts: one for each side. With two nuts you can reduce vibration on both sides thus reducing thread wear.

I got the control arms rebuilt in a machine shop, drove an hour to my supply town and had the alignment checked. Everything seems fine. If anyone has any ideas on anything I should check, please let me know. (U-joints seem fine, drive shaft does not seem bent)
 
Usually only salt roads and loose nuts will cause this. If there isn’t a jamb nut or it not tight, it’ll strip them off over time. Find out where you’re happy with the position of them, then weld em up.
 
Yup. Happened to my 80 on Dusy Ershim in 2013. What a s*** show that was.

Luckily @Inverness had his welder and saved the day.

@Cruiserdrew


I totally remember that trip. Lots of carnage as I recall. It makes me think the adjustables are not the way to go. Or adjust and then weld it all into 1 solid piece. Or, check the jam nut like religion.
 
Like others I have had the same problems on my front adjustable control arms, rear Upper and lower control arms with jam nuts coming loose. Once the jam nut comes loose the threads contact area wear and make it even more difficult to maintain tight. If somebody would produce these arms using the an Acme thread designed for load bearing applications there would be no problem. Until then I will continue to use fixed arms with factory rubber bushing for safety and reliability.
 
Thank you for the comments. These adjustable control arms seem like a weak point in what is otherwise a robust suspension system.

Beno, Phil - did you experience any secondary failures or problems due to rear upper control arms failure? eg, failed u joint, bent axle, damaged differential, severed brake lines?
 
Thank you for the comments. These adjustable control arms seem like a weak point in what is otherwise a robust suspension system.

Beno, Phil - did you experience any secondary failures or problems due to rear upper control arms failure? eg, failed u joint, bent axle, damaged differential, severed brake lines?

Never had a failure personally but I do learn and pay attention to other people's problems. My goal is to avoid problems on the trail, so when it comes to my LC Im proactive rather than reactive when it comes to potential problems. Having seen a few upper control arms break all used poly bushing and broke where the bushing holder meets the link. So I use only OEM bushings and my links (upper & lower) are 3/8" thick.


img_8103-jpg.894276
 
I welded the jamb nuts to the adjustable portions at a final measure when I had everything dialed in.

If I had to do it again, I would determine height and weight and measure length to that and have solid arms.

Bent stuff? Bracket at axle housing was bent but I straightened those out.
 
Never had a failure personally but I do learn and pay attention to other people's problems. My goal is to avoid problems on the trail, so when it comes to my LC Im proactive rather than reactive when it comes to potential problems. Having seen a few upper control arms break all used poly bushing and broke where the bushing holder meets the link. So I use only OEM bushings and my links (upper & lower) are 3/8" thick.


img_8103-jpg.894276

Update - Upper control didnt fail I broke the bracket on the axle. Not to worry if it happens to you as I drove lots of hard miles offroad like I stole it and then the 80 was towed several 100 tarmac miles (by others) without any problems. I did relocate the brake line attached to the bracket to avoid brake failure.:eek:

44836716_2143439582587891_4047332767759477301_n.jpg


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Looks like a new LCP product!
 
Like others I have had the same problems on my front adjustable control arms, rear Upper and lower control arms with jam nuts coming loose. Once the jam nut comes loose the threads contact area wear and make it even more difficult to maintain tight. If somebody would produce these arms using the an Acme thread designed for load bearing applications there would be no problem. Until then I will continue to use fixed arms with factory rubber bushing for safety and reliability.
Lol yeah great idea. Acme threads. We should build bridges and stuff with them too
 
Acme threads :rofl:
 

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