Rear Control Arm Parts Numbers (3 Viewers)

[WTITW]

Need to do the rear control arms soon. Couldn't find bushings on Bell Lexus, only the whole arm. The lower looks like there is just one PN for both sides but the uppers are confusing me a bit. On Bell Lex parts I see a L and R version for $185 and then what looks to be a universal version listed as fitting both sides for $105 each.

Anyone know what the difference is? Anything else I should change while I'm down there? Panhard bard is in good shape as I replaced that when I did shocks and coil conversion. I have new bushes for the stabilizer bar.

Rear Upper Control Arm Universal L/R
PN: 4871060160

Rear Upper L
PN: 4879060010

Rear Upper R
PN: 4877060010

Rear Lower Control L,R Arm x2
PN: 4872035061

 

[Rednexus]

Looks like the aftermarket arms are also different between left and right for Moogs, but the same for Mevotechs. To me, they look identical! For my I used Moog replacement uppers ($28 ea. on Rock Auto) and they have been fine for 4 years and lots of wheeling. I pulled my whole rear axle out a few weeks ago and was able to inspect them to verify their condition. I'm not sure OEM uppers at $100 plus each are worth it for a tiny part like that.

FYI given the cost of new OEM lower arms I'd suggest upgraded aftermarket instead. I did crush one of the e-brake cable mounts on my lower arms while wheeling, and one of the bushings also got ripped (again, probably from wheeling/flexing out). I got some Sonoran Steel Fabrication lowers for my GX and they are much nicer and beefier than the OEM arms, and they have offset bushings that will allow for more flex. They are a relatively local shop for you.

 

[WTITW]

I got some Sonoran Steel Fabrication lowers for my GX and they are much nicer and beefier than the OEM arms,

Oh nice. Yeah they are right around the corner. At only $20 more per side than oem seems like a no brainer. I didn’t want to do poly anywhere but might help with my heavy towing offroad.

No squeaks?

 

[Rednexus]

Oh nice. Yeah they are right around the corner. At only $20 more per side than oem seems like a no brainer. I didn’t want to do poly anywhere but might help with my heavy towing offroad.

No squeaks?

Zero squeaks so far! They provide one grease packet per bushing and I applied liberally. I've also had poly sway bar bushings for 4+ years no, and they don't squeak either (I only greased them at the initial install).

 

[WTITW]

View attachment 3935291

Looks like you've got the Firestone Coil Rights bags. How are they working out for you? I went with the airride because I couldn't get a response from Firestone on which bag or how to measure. I've got the Ironman coil conversion, which gives you less height. My AirRides have been good but they top out at 35PSI. I've been running them at 30 for a little overhead. and it feels like it could be a little firmer with my typical 5K lb tow load.

 

[Rednexus]

Looks like you've got the Firestone Coil Rights bags. How are they working out for you? I went with the airride because I couldn't get a response from Firestone on which bag or how to measure. I've got the Ironman coil conversion, which gives you less height. My AirRides have been good but they top out at 35PSI. I've been running them at 30 for a little overhead. and it feels like it could be a little firmer with my typical 5K lb tow load.

I just installed them and have only done a 50 mile test tow with them. In terms of better towing performance, they are a huge help. I'm no longer going to use a WDH. It's significantly more stable with the bags and a Shocker hitch than it was with the WDH. With the bags and 4.56 gears it's now possible to forget there is a camper behind the rig (with the WDH and 3.73s, you always knew it was back there).

But, I'm still sitting about 1/2" low in the back with the bags maxed out at 35 psi. I cut all but one of the coil spring isolator sections out. I'm going to try it with 2 remaining sections and see if that gets it level. Either the bags themselves are too short, or I just cut too much of the isolator off. If this does not level it out loaded, I'll install a set of 1/2" poly spacers on top of the coils.

 

[WTITW]

Yeah, I was blown away at the difference after I put mine in, I just want a little more firmness. I haven't measured sag, but maybe today, as I'm heading up tomorrow. I thought the Firestones could go up to 50psi? I didn't even consider WDH since mines offroad trailer.

Didn't want to end up like the lady's trailer featured in this video:


I guess I could have just pulled the bars out when I get to the trail, but then you have all that sag to deal with on the trail, where I don't need as much firmness for steering at lower speeds, but I sure need all the clearance I can get. I think a 570/600 is in my future since right up to my tow limits. Airbags were a big help for handling, but going over passes at 45mph in 2nd at 4500 RPMS while being passed by big rigs isn't the funniest experience.

Did you re-gear to lock or just for the torque? I don't think I'd mess with that unless I was locking.

 

[Rednexus]

My trailer is only 3K unloaded, so I have a bit less weight . I did F+R lockers with the re-gear. It's a totally different driving experience with the regear. I can now tow with the cruise control on.

FYI the 6,500# rating for these only applies if you use a WDH. They are rated for 5,000# with a non-WDH. The factory 6,500# hitch is designed for use with WDH and cradles the rear of the frame fairly well. That being said, I've towed trailers around with 5,000# mark without WDH (enclosed utility and equipment trailers) and didn't really notice any issues.

 

[r2m]

Yeah, I was blown away at the difference after I put mine in, I just want a little more firmness. I haven't measured sag, but maybe today, as I'm heading up tomorrow. I thought the Firestones could go up to 50psi? I didn't even consider WDH since mines offroad trailer.

Didn't want to end up like the lady's trailer featured in this video:


I guess I could have just pulled the bars out when I get to the trail, but then you have all that sag to deal with on the trail, where I don't need as much firmness for steering at lower speeds, but I sure need all the clearance I can get. I think a 570/600 is in my future since right up to my tow limits. Airbags were a big help for handling, but going over passes at 45mph in 2nd at 4500 RPMS while being passed by big rigs isn't the funniest experience.

Did you re-gear to lock or just for the torque? I don't think I'd mess with that unless I was locking.

Is it possible to reposition some of the load more towards the rear and reduce tongue weight?