THANKS! I knew somebody here would be good a vocab. Beats the postees who are wise-asses on a mission.
Rear Control Arm Mod
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
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Ah c'mon John...lighten up buddy: Just having some fun whichya
Besides...we turned it into a learning post for everyone
Ah c'mon John...lighten up buddy: Just having some fun whichya
Besides...we turned it into a learning post for everyone
I'm fine. Having fun!
My comment wasn't aimed at you.
OK kids, today's lesson is bending and twisting. With bending, you might get home in your rig. With severe twisting, you're probably going to be walking out or hitching a ride.
This might slow you down, but you can still drive on it.
Now this one is going to make you drive home in front wheel drive or two wheel drive.
There's my smart
comment, but it might explain something to someone who isn't experienced as others on the trail.
This might slow you down, but you can still drive on it.
Now this one is going to make you drive home in front wheel drive or two wheel drive.
There's my smart
comment, but it might explain something to someone who isn't experienced as others on the trail.Driveshafts and Control Arms are two totally different structures. Today's lesson.
I'd like to see somebody do that (your driveshaft pic) to a control arm.
Phil's got the accurate statement = Compound Bend
I'd like to see somebody do that (your driveshaft pic) to a control arm.
Phil's got the accurate statement = Compound Bend
By the way....here's a real good reason to do this angle iron mod:
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Rovers come that way from the factory.
Driveshafts and Control Arms are two totally different structures. Today's lesson.
I'd like to see somebody do that (your driveshaft pic) to a control arm.
Phil's got the accurate statement = Compound Bend
I never said they were the same, You said you "Barber Poled" your arm.
But one can cause the other. The picture shows a Rover that bent the arm, and you'll notice that the pinion angle now shoots upward. Once the pinion angle is severe enough to pinch the u-joint, the power to the drive line either snaps the joint or spiral twists the shaft.
NOTE: With slip yoke drive lines you'll be walking or towed, don't try to drive out and leave a trail of oil and burn up the transfer case.
Moral of the story; back to the original purpose of the thread, by modifying or replacing the arms with heavy duty units, you protect yourself from compounding problems.
Adventure Teq
SILVER Star
Shotts, those are some nice ones you have from Wild West. But after reading their specs I can't figure out why in the world they would cost $475 a pair. 
Shotts, those are some nice ones you have from Wild West. But after reading their specs I can't figure out why in the world they would cost $475 a pair.
I'll help you.
1. The only arm out there that almost eliminates contact of the arm and therefore no hanging or stopped progress. With the limited lift heights of this series this is BIG!
2. Heaviest-duty design out there.
3. The 2nd gen "sliders" protect the weld.
4. Can be had at a longer length to correct pinion angle for 3" lift.
5. Large rubber bushings (better than poly ones on other brands).
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Adventure Teq
SILVER Star
Like I said, they're nice...
I'll just leave it at that.
I'll just leave it at that.
By the way....here's a real good reason to do this angle iron mod:
Must not be a real close friend of yours or he's from out of town 'cause he doesn't have his shirt tucked in and a belt with those shorts.
Shotts: how do you bend the arms downwards?
..... Not saying you cant, just curuious
I thought modding your rig was all about spending the least amount of $$
..... Not saying you cant, just curuious
I'll help you.
1. The only arm out there that almost eliminates contact of the arm and therefore no hanging or stopped progress. With the limited lift heights of this series this is BIG!
2. Heaviest-duty design out there.
3. The 2nd gen "sliders" protect the weld.
4. Can be had at a longer length to correct pinion angle for 3" lift.
5. Large rubber bushings (better than poly ones on other brands).
I thought modding your rig was all about spending the least amount of $$
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- Thread starter
- #54
Wow! My tread has gone off the deep end!!!
Zane
Zane
Sorry zane! ill stop....
- Thread starter
- #56
OK,
I did some more work on the rig today and wanted to share the progress. I started on beefing up my hangers. I spent quite a bit of time getting my angles right and welding it up. Man, welding under your truck is NO fun.
I really liked Farinvails design, but i wanted to have simple access to the control arm bolt and nut. I still need to weld in supports for the little skid that goes under the control arm bushing "thing". But i wanted to share what i've got so far.
I did some more work on the rig today and wanted to share the progress. I started on beefing up my hangers. I spent quite a bit of time getting my angles right and welding it up. Man, welding under your truck is NO fun.
I really liked Farinvails design, but i wanted to have simple access to the control arm bolt and nut. I still need to weld in supports for the little skid that goes under the control arm bushing "thing". But i wanted to share what i've got so far.
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again, do mine next!
Not to be negative.....looks good.....my front skids we that long (that far down..maybe a touch more even) at first. Then came running trails. Moab was first and I hung on them OFTEN which made some climbs hard. Finally I gave up and had my guy shorten mine. That SPOT is a CRITICAL one on the 80 and 100 and we need every milimeter of clearance there. If you find out you're hanging check those to see if they're the culprit.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Zane, those look great. Worst case, you tag that horizontal plate hard and it bends up into the bushings eye. Even then, you'll just have a nasty squeak. Support it like you plan and you'll be golden.
That'd be a great product for someone to turn out, a kit with a longer bolt that caps the whole hanger. Kind of a mini skid plate.
That'd be a great product for someone to turn out, a kit with a longer bolt that caps the whole hanger. Kind of a mini skid plate.
Zane looks great. Mine have access holes in the side plates to the nut/bolt can slide through. Shott's sure those hit, Because they are the lowest part of the frame. I'm sporting 863 springs and have the jacked up Camero look to help clear them. That is the single point that makes the most contact with rocks. I like the idea of more clearance though. Sure would be cool to channel the frame and recess them. Hmmm...
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