Rear Control Arm Mod

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It is the Bolt that has the hash marks. I used an open end wrench to keep the bolt from spinning and twisted the nut with another open end wrench to loosen. After I pulled the bolt, I checked the hash marks on the bolt head and everything looked fine.

When I put things back together I made sure that when putting the bolt back in that the has marks matched up to the marks on the control arm hangers off of the frame. I then tightend up the nut using open end wrenches on both ends keeping the bolt from spinning off of the marks.

Zane
 
I think your bolts will probably be OK since you were careful lining everything up. A little red lock tight and you should be good to go.

This isn't a new mod folks. 80s have been doing it for a long time. And putting the plate on the frame side of the control arm bracket is a no brainer if you play in the rocks. You slide along and then the rocks catch the first object in their path which is that bracket. They can take some severe hits. Putting the angle iron just like Zane did works great. It provides and edge to slide on. Think of an ice skate. Is it bulletproof, probably not, especially if you use armor piercing rounds? Will it most likely keep the control arms from bending? Most likely, but remember anything can be broken.

Put
 
Adding some steel to the control arm hanger is the perfect next step for me in this project. As I understand it the hangers get hung up on stuff really easily and tend to be the thing that gets beat up fairly bad.

I'll post a picture of my control arm frame mount...you'll want to go weld up some reinforcement immediately!
 
upper mount protection. I had cracks in two places.
lca front.webp
lca side.webp
lca rear.webp
 
Think I'm due for some time with the rattle can.
 
Many of you have done this already so this is nothing new other than I couldnt find one place that gave any details about this mod so i figured i would write something up to help others out. This is a VERY simple mod that will beef up your rear control arms. As I understand it, they have a tendency to bend when bashing them on rocks. This makes plenty of since due to the weight of our rigs. I dont claim to be an expert on this, but I would think this mod should make them close to bullet proof.

Attached is a picture of one of the control arms finished up. I pulled the control arm, welded in the steel, cleaned it all up, primed and painted and reinstalled the control arm all in about 30 minutes.

When I do the drivers side in the next day or so, I will take step by step pictures including how to remove your rear control arm and update this post.

oh ya.. this mod only cost $14.00 :)

Will it work on a 80??:hhmm:
 
upper mount protection. I had cracks in two places.

I like how you did this. Its the best way I have seen this done so far. How the hell did you find room to get good welds working between the muffler and the hanger? It looks like a bit more work than simply welding in a plate on the front of the hanger, but a hell of a lot better in the long run I would think.

The gears are turning in my head thinking of how I want to do this..

Zane
 
I'm having Slee Off-road do the same type of mod in a couple days, I think they're going to try model it up so it can be had easier for others.

Zane, another 4x shop here in the Denver area did the mod for Far, I really regret not having it had done before hitting CM.
 
The ADD-THE-ANGLE-IRON mod is a great low-cost mod and should do the trick for most until they step their wheeling up. Worked for me for a few years. It got me through Moab.

The arms are still bendable as I bent mine in both directions H&V on even tougher trails. I made a barber pole out of one of them. Eventually you'll want these new arms some day if you keep hitting the crazy stuff. And when you no longer hit and hang on your arms due to clearance you'll be thrilled! No more stucky-stucky.

338688496_hN3N3-L.jpg
 
Personally, I would rather have a beefed up control arm be my drag point than my driveshaft.

Still is on my 100 due to limited lift and driveshaft angle. This shows it:

338688138_rS3VA-L.jpg


And even IF the drive shaft would wind up a touch lower...there's only one thing to watch out for instead of two (or three).

Until you have them on and trail test them, don't discount their benefits as they are BIG (especially on a 3-inch lifted 100. The difference they make on my 7-inch lifted 80 are reduced). Plus they can be had a tad longer in length to correct pinion angle.
 
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Zane, this is an excellent do it yourself mod that gives you great practice welding. They look great and will come in handy while dragging into those tough trails.

upper mount protection. I had cracks in two places.

Now those are awesome looking plates! What thickness did you use on the plate and did you have then bent on a brake?
 
The ADD-THE-ANGLE-IRON mod is a great low-cost mod and should do the trick for most until they step their wheeling up. Worked for me for a few years. It got me through Moab.

The arms are still bendable as I bent mine in both directions H&V on even tougher trails. I made a barber pole out of one of them. Eventually you'll want these new arms some day if you keep hitting the crazy stuff. And when you no longer hit and hang on your arms due to clearance you'll be thrilled! No more stucky-stucky.

338688496_hN3N3-L.jpg


Just curious: How do you "barber pole" a control arm?
 
Adding some steel to the control arm hanger is the perfect next step for me in this project. As I understand it the hangers get hung up on stuff really easily and tend to be the thing that gets beat up fairly bad.

This is a good mod! I wish I had only done this BEFORE I bent my control arm mounts :rolleyes:
 
That's just bent. "Barber pole" is reserved for drivelines, where dragging them over the rock creates a spiral up the shaft. I would have thought you'd know the difference since you're doing more advanced trails than the rest of us. :flipoff2:
 

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