Rear Bumper Section (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So...after checking out everyones bumpers..............................................
........................................................................

:D :D


??? Does the Kaymar have more of an overhang than the 4x4labs (Photo_Cruiser) or the Slee Offroad (cruiserdan)? Thus increasing the departure angle. If the Kaymar does have the larger overhang, does it make that much of a difference? Those of you with Kaymars, have you dragged? Or how often do you drag?


Do you still have a decent step off the rear?


It also seems that many of the bumpers in here have had the rear cross member removed, chopped out, whatever you want to call it. Is this a common practice?


Those of you that have bumpers could you post pics from the side so we can see departure angle, how far out the bumper goes.


Thanks so much for the great ideas so far...
:cheers:
 
I'll try to answer all at once!

Junk,

Your latch picture is attached.

Snowcruiser,

>I would be interested in some more pictures and having a look at your cad files also.

No problem. Just email me and I'll reply with a mondo zip file. Can you handle a 5 meg file?

>I especially like the way the tire is angled to hug the slant of the rear end and stay close to the body.

Thanks. It was a biatch trying to curve a 3/16" plate to fit the contour!

> Also the way the bumper integrates with the factory mudflaps and has an integrated hitch with lights. It appears as if you deleted the rear cross member and added your own. Is this correct?

Yes, I removed the rear cross member. I could've sucked in the bumper a lot tighter but chose not to. There's still plenty of room for the spare gas tank.

> Also is the diamond plate step welded to the bumper or attached separately and removable?

The diamond plate is 1/10" alum and is screwed to the top of the bumper. All of the holes in the bumper are drilled and tapped for 10-32 SS machine screws with flushed heads.

> Oh, and roughly what do you think you spent in material?

This is a tough one. I bought all material in bulk form. For example the 3/16" plate came at 4'x8' and the 2x4x3/16" rect tubing came at 20' pieces. This saves money in the long run and I do plenty of projects that will use up the material eventually.

Here's the material list and other info:

all flat plates (top/side/bottom/quarter panel wings) are 3/16" thickness. Wings were bent using the factory plastic pieces as template using the "bump bend" method on a 100 Ton press. The rect tubing that goes between the frame rails and is the brace for the hitch receiver is 2x4x3/16". The L shape pieces that go around the frame rails and have holes for the bolts are 1/4" thickness and bent at 90 deg. All other gussets are 1/4".

Tire carrier - horiz bar is 2x2x1/8" and up rights are 1.5x1.5x1/8". Tire carrier hinge is from Rockstomper.com $40. Latch from McMaster Carr (my favorite place) is SS and costs around $40.


> This is pretty close to the design I am planning to go with. I'd be interested in costs and time.

Time - hmm, that's easy. Figure on most weekeday evenings after work, most weekends for a month or two! Would've gone faster if I had more help. That biatch gets unruly when you connect all of the pieces together.

> Great work!

Thanks. Glad you liked it. If anyone else wants a copy of the pics of the project, just send me your email address.

Ali
:flipoff2:
 
Loading picture.......
 
I forgot to mention one thing. I don't tow much with this vehicle. The reason I made the hitch receiver structure so stout is primarily for recovering purposes. As most of you know, snatching someone out of a mud hole required an extreme amount of pulling force. I wanted make sure that all force is evenly distributed between both frame rails. I know this is probably over kill but .....! :-\

Ali
:cheers:
 
Ali, I need to deduct 2 points from my previous score of your bumper. Dude, with all that nice craftsmanship, what's up with the 2 boogered screws? :D Sorry, just had to give you crap. ;)

The rear cross member was taken out for mine. The idea was to get it tight, but leave enough room for the winch.

I would highly advise against going custom with this unless you build it yourself. Get Slee's.
 
Damn, you caught that! :eek: That little change was a last minute, I mean LAST minute change before I left for Redbird SRA (south Indiana) trip last Friday. I'll have to "pretty" things up a bit! The paint wasn't even dry before I hit the trails! :whoops:

Ali
 
Sorry Friends,

My computer Crash!!!!

Blupaddler,

I Live in Caracas Venezuela, Nice place for Aventure Trips, all year long 23 to 36 celcius, If you need any info feel free to ask.

By the way my FZJ80 have Dual ALternator......i will take some pics and post it!!!
 
I have been thinking of a similar design for my rear bumper as the front Slee I have (Thanks Junk!).

I like the point at the corner so I may be cutting the frame in the rear and have tapered point at the corner with tapered sheetmetal.

Luckily I know a guy with a degree in welding that I am going to recruit for this as I am incompetent. Tom, you surf here sometimes, I will be calling.

Should be neat..I want to actually integrate the flare a little better so the rear mud flap snap on the flare is covered as well.
 
Landpimp, another question: can those rear shackle rings be 'opened' so as to insert a tow strap loop, or do you need a hook to use them? What are they rated for (lbs)?

Kenton

[quote author=Landpimp link=board=2;threadid=13137;start=msg142322#msg142322 date=1082493060]
here is the rear bumper set up on my 92.

nothing fancy, I took off the plastic crap, had a local bend up some tube(attached with U-bolts) welded on some plates and bolted up some tow rings. Cost me all of $100. I hate rear tire carriers........always in the way.
[/quote]
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom