After re-packing my front Birfs, I began wondering. What preventive maintenance should be done on the rear axle?
I have new bearing ready to install when I get to it. I would like to rebuild the diff bearing at same time. kurt
Re-pack rear wheel bearings and replace axle and hub seals as required. Replace diff gear lube and adjust e-brake as needed.
Byron, >> on board air, << I don't want to hijack your thread but can you briefly give specifics? -B-
B- Sure thing. Here are the basics, I pretty much followed the out line here, http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/caddy_comp/. I found one of the compressors for $15 on a mid-80s Caddy, I didn't need it for lockerd, I have factory. I ran it to a semi-trailer tank, about 7gal, that I mounted where the spare tire used to be (high and tight), I have a quick disconnect coming out the rear bumper. I also switched it in my console. Let me know if you want more details, I'll be happy to provide.
Byron, It would be great if you have pics of the compressor and the tank. If not, where did you mount the compressor? What pressure are you running? -B-
Here is a pic of the compressor (not mine but one just like it). It esentially looks like an ARB compressor in form, just not as pretty. I mounted it under the hood in front of the air filter pan. You could mount it anywhere you would and ARB compressor, it is almost identical in size. I wired in an air pressure switch that turns on at 84psi and off at 105 psi (about $20), so I have very close to 105psi in the tank. I do not have a current pic of the tank (camera on the outs). If you have ever seen an air tank used on semi tractor or trailers it is that. I chose a trailer tank, because they are larger and cheper that a tractor tank? It is about 12in in diameter and about 30 in long with mounting tabs on the end. I took out the spare tire holder cross bar and tucked it up in there, it doesn't weigh much, if you have a 5 or 10 gallon portable air tank it's about the same weight. Please let me know what else I can describe.
Byron, Eric (cruiserman) says "Re-pack rear wheel bearings and replace axle and hub seals as required. Replace diff gear lube and adjust e-brake as needed." The hub seal will have to be replaced when you pack the wheel bearings. I feel the same way about the rear axle seals as the front; use OEM seals. They are a *lot* easier to get to on the rear. At 100k miles my rear hub had no grease at all on one side and just a small amount on the other side. Very clean though and plenty of gear oil in the hub. Setting the pre-load on the rear is a little harder because, to do it "by the book", you need a Toyota SST. The first time I did mine I set the pre-load by feel and used a brass drift to tighten the rear nut. About a month later, C-Dan loaned me the SST so I went back in and used the correct tool. For the DIY guy without access to the SST, I wouldn't recommend buying it. If you are handy with a welder there are some pics of a homemade tool floating around somewhere. FWIW, I strongly recommend that the rear axle service be done on high mileage trucks. We spend a lot of time talking about the front. The rear is just as important and often neglected. Fortunately, the costs of neglect on the rear are much less than the $$$ to repair neglected birfields. -B-
The Haynes manual says to adjust the preload "Install the brake disk and hold it in place with 2 lug nuts. TIghten the locknut to 43 ft lbs while rotating the hub ass. to seat the bearings. Back off the locknut just untill it can be turned by hand" and so on. Is this what you are talking about with the SST? kurt
Kurt, On the FF rear axles the locknut is round so there is no way to torque it with any type of normal wrench, socket, channel locks, etc. The locknut has 3 holes in the outer surface. The SST has 3 prongs that go into these holes. Here is a fuzzy image but you'll get the idea. Borrowed the pic from the OTC tools web site. -B-
The Haynes manual says that adjustment was for FF. I am about to install new bearings. How much is the SST? kurt
Kurt, If you mean the rear one, it runs around 50 bucks. I could check for you Monday to see if there are any in stock. Dan.
Kurt, C-Dan will have to get the price for you. I couldn't find any prices.... Sorry. Here is where the image came from (Item #6064): http://www.otctools.com/brochures/233-1.pdf -B-
It looks like something my welder could make. I will take the nut to him. Cost should be less the $10 I bet. Or I could make one if I worked at it. kurt
To summarize: replace the seal and axle seals (1 for each side). repack bearings, replacing them is not anticipated (unless you get in there and see otherwise). so basically, I need 4 seals and one 3 prong SST (unless I figure out another method to deal with the nut). Yes? LandToy or B- at the risk of going over my limit of questions, would you be able to share the torque settings for the preload?
Also replace the axle flange gaskets. Gaskets, 43422-60040 x 2 W.B. seals, 90311-62002 x2 axle shaft seals 90310-35001 x 2 wheel bearings, 90363-45087-77 x 2 90363-45087-77 x 2 (same as front axle) The OEM tool is a 09509-25011 CORRECTION: THE BEARINGS SHOULD READ 90368 NOT 90363 **********************************************
Byron, Initial torque on the rear hub nut is 43 ft/lbs to seat the bearing, then back off to hand tight and measure the pre-load just like you did for the front. I believe the setting is the same; 8-16 lbs on the spring scale. At the risk of being called a butcher again, I used the brass drift to seat the rear wheel bearings. The hub nut has the 3 holes and it has 2 protruding dowels. You can get enough purchase on these dowels to turn the hub nut. If you remember the "feel" of the front wheel bearings then you can also do the rears by feel. I was happier after borrowing C-Dan's SST but I felt OK doing the rears by feel the first time. I had already done the front pre-load 3 or 4 times as (unintended) practice. You'll have the same routine with the rear cone washers. Torque is the same (~20 ft/lbs IIRC) Get the 43422-60040 x 2 gaskets. Use HD wheel bearing grease; I prefer synthetics but any good grease designed for high speed use is OK. Note: There are 2 phillips head screws that lock the hub nut into position. Take care with these screws. Use a *good* phillips screwdriver to loosen and tighten. Use your best screw removal techniques (impact screwdriver if you have one.) Robbie recently posted some good tips on removing these screws. ========== snip ============= Msg #46092 From: "Robbie Antonson" <tech@s...> Date: Thu May 29, 2003 12:44 pm Subject: Re: [80] Need rear axle assistance ASAP I do doubt that any of the dealers near you will have the screw, it is real special. As for what you can do to get it out, these are a couple of trick I have used. Small vise grips most of the time will loosen it, or a hammer and hole punch with a very sharp tip---- use it on the out side edge of the head, this always works. As for putting it back, usually you can use the screw driver to put it in, just not real tight. I usually do not use a screw driver, but use a #2 phillps on a 3/8 drive ratchet. I usually tap hard (meaning hard tap not beating it) on the 3/8 drive side to loosen the screw a bit first. Hope all goes well, Robbie Antonson 94 FZJ 80 still tinkering ============= -B-
You don't have to replace the hub seal if it's in good shape. You can pop it off by leaving the hub adjuster or lock nut on the spindle, and pulling the hub towards you. Inner bearing and hub seal will come out. I've found good aftermarket hub seals at Car-Quest for a cheaper price. Rear OEM hub seal is different, but front will work on the rear.
