rear axle tabs - fabrication

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Yeah, none of have been real helpful. @jeffro109 is absolutely correct. Because of the sever corrosion that you have, your thickness of the housing left to weld to is also very thin. Even if you can weld yourself, I would recommend changing the entire rear axle housing as well. This will hopefully come with better E-brake hardware, backing plates, and all the other little brackets that hold it together. I would even do the bump stops, sway bar, and sway bar links.

I am guessing you can find a replacement axle in the $400 range. Then do a bench rebuild and slide it under. Maybe even buy a frame from a rolled truck and take what you need, if that's within your time, space, and abilities. Craigslist or local LC club?

Good Luck! I was amazed by the amount of corrosion. It would scare me to drive that with major components like that rusted off.

I only drive about 1/2 mile to train station. Got a little wobble to her.
 
Where are you in the world? Look at the above tabs for "Clubhouses" and you can select info for the club nearest you. Contact them and they can hook you up with locals.
 
I will get more picks up in a day or two. But you west coast chicks with the pristine weather and no rust... best close your hole. I am asking for assistance to keep this truck going and not a ******* comedy skit. Put up something helpful or shut up. Isn't that the purpose of this forum? I am located in Boston area so anyone local, please give response.

Yeah, none of have been real helpful. @jeffro109 is absolutely correct. Because of the sever corrosion that you have, your thickness of the housing left to weld to is also very thin. Even if you can weld yourself, I would recommend changing the entire rear axle housing as well. This will hopefully come with better E-brake hardware, backing plates, and all the other little brackets that hold it together. I would even do the bump stops, sway bar, and sway bar links.

I am guessing you can find a replacement axle in the $400 range. Then do a bench rebuild and slide it under. Maybe even buy a frame from a rolled truck and take what you need, if that's within your time, space, and abilities. Craigslist or local LC club?

Good Luck! I was amazed by the amount of corrosion. It would scare me to drive that with major components like that rusted off.

See post 5 dingaling, come here asking for help, I told you what you needed, and you throw a fit because you get a little s*** over a fxxxered up housing.

Get a new housing and come back when you have one.

Oh, you want some more tech, your housing is going to start seeping gear oil before long.

Get a new housing.
 
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The swaybar mounts are easy to find. You can use universal ones.
 
I could sell you my rust free spare rear housing. You would need to notch it for the e-locker. I'm not sure on shipping cost though.
 
My goodness I've seen a lot of rusted cruiser before but not like that and its a 97LC , I bet the frame are rusted as well ha ! that's why you don't want to show us the rest of the rust , Only thing is if its worth of fixing it , unless if you can fab your bracket but if I were you find another Cruiser and swap it over .
 
Start by taking all the rust off, then part out everything that was inside.

Then buy a new axle, and if the axle is pre-attached to a rust free 80 you're all set.

No Welding necessary :-)
 
Post up a pic of the undercarriage. If there was an 80s rust contest, I'm thinking you would be a contender.
 
I'm in Michigan and my PO never seemed to wash the undercarriage. It was total carnage under there, but not quite as bad as yours which seems to take regular salt-baths.

I'm surprised to be able to say it, but your rig is rustier than mine. As I suggested before(in post #8) it would be a lot better to start with a cleaner axle. It is more economical and easier to throw away rust than it is to repair it. I have come pretty close a couple times to just junk this one and save the salvageable parts for a different truck. I just can't bring myself to do it.

Jason @ CruiserYard is a pleasure to deal with and his prices are not bad. Get yourself familiar with your truck and start making a list of the things you need, perform a triage of sorts and figure out the priority from "Must be done" to "should be done." Once you have that settled you can figure out if you really want to fix it or just get a different rig. Unfortunately, sometimes the latter makes the most sense.
 
I'm in Michigan and my PO never seemed to wash the undercarriage. It was total carnage under there, but not quite as bad as yours which seems to take regular salt-baths.

I'm surprised to be able to say it, but your rig is rustier than mine. As I suggested before(in post #8) it would be a lot better to start with a cleaner axle. It is more economical and easier to throw away rust than it is to repair it. I have come pretty close a couple times to just junk this one and save the salvageable parts for a different truck. I just can't bring myself to do it.

Jason @ CruiserYard is a pleasure to deal with and his prices are not bad. Get yourself familiar with your truck and start making a list of the things you need, perform a triage of sorts and figure out the priority from "Must be done" to "should be done." Once you have that settled you can figure out if you really want to fix it or just get a different rig. Unfortunately, sometimes the latter makes the most sense.

First off, thanks for the replies. I was a bit frustrated with the initial responses from some but I should have expected such - as opinions are like assholes, everyone has one - some just have a****** opinions.

I just picked this rig up back in May. Owner before me was a transplant from CO and had no idea what saltwater exposure would do. Like I said, he used it to put a boat in and out daily and that was it. Drove 300 miles across 3 years. Never washed it down. It was also covered in a thin layer of mold as it sat between some tall Arborvitae shrubs. I am trying to bring her back to life; engine purrs (1,100 rpm), transmission shifts great, interior is okay but leather seats are fantastic shape for the year, body is solid, everything works except 2 speakers. Just seems a shame not to give something back to her and at only 185k miles....

I will post up some pics for those who want to live vicariously.
 
First off, thanks for the replies. I was a bit frustrated with the initial responses from some but I should have expected such - as opinions are like assholes, everyone has one - some just have a****** opinions.

I just picked this rig up back in May. Owner before me was a transplant from CO and had no idea what saltwater exposure would do. Like I said, he used it to put a boat in and out daily and that was it. Drove 300 miles across 3 years. Never washed it down. It was also covered in a thin layer of mold as it sat between some tall Arborvitae shrubs. I am trying to bring her back to life; engine purrs (1,100 rpm), transmission shifts great, interior is okay but leather seats are fantastic shape for the year, body is solid, everything works except 2 speakers. Just seems a shame not to give something back to her and at only 185k miles....

I will post up some pics for those who want to live vicariously.
Honestly I agree with the crowd to replace the housing. It will save you a ton of headache in the long run and piece of mind. Dipping in salt water like that could lead to other issues as well. Like others stated once you breakdown the part you may find a lot more damage than just rusty tabs.

On another note, idle @ 1100rpm doesn't sound right either. These will purr at 600rpm. Maybe at start up you'll see ~1500 give take 300, but just rest under 1k.
 
Honestly I agree with the crowd to replace the housing. It will save you a ton of headache in the long run and piece of mind. Dipping in salt water like that could lead to other issues as well. Like others stated once you breakdown the part you may find a lot more damage than just rusty tabs.

On another note, idle @ 1100rpm doesn't sound right either. These will purr at 600rpm. Maybe at start up you'll see ~1500 give take 300, but just rest under 1k.

To be more precise, start up is 1,300 rpm which quickly goes down to 1100. When at idle and in gear, its about 800-900. Is that concerning?
 
To be more precise, start up is 1,300 rpm which quickly goes down to 1100. When at idle and in gear, its about 800-900. Is that concerning?
Sounds a bit high. I will defer to the more knowledgeable on that particular item. Wonder if the PO adjust the throttle up to mask something else. I don't know. I would'nt worry, but sounds high to me.
 
And I have a lead on a housing that is relatively close (2hrs away). waiting on some pics.
 
And I have a lead on a housing that is relatively close (2hrs away). waiting on some pics.
I think you will thank yourself later if that pans or you take that road.
 
What does the frame look like? If it is as bad as the axle, that would be concerning...

FWIW the 40-Series trucks has a special "Oman Spec" with extra corrosion protection because the trucks in Oman are frequently used for putting boats in/out of the ocean and sometimes even for dragging in fishing nets. Also, with the frequent use and size of the fish coolers, the suspension was adapted to a higher center-of-gravity and a higher mass for the rear. Those trucks are all likely rusted away... Makes you wonder how many Land Cruisers worth of rust is in the ocean...
 

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