Rear axle service questions

[lnnguyen01]

Hello all,

I was putting in new rear brakes pads and rotors (97 LX450) but then saw a bunch of grease after I removed the rotor. So looks like I need to service the rear axle. Thanks to all the great writeups and pics will give it a go myself. Will contact Cdan for parts along with SST.

A couple of maybe stupid questions:
1. I read the warning about locking the rear axle. Can I lock it with the rear up on jack stands and tires removed? Or do I have to put the tires back on and drop the rear back down to lock? I rarely go offroad and have never had to use the diff lock.
2. How do I remove the 6 outside nuts since when I try to loosen the nuts the whole axle turns?
Thanks!

 

[scrowley]

You need to put tires back on, take out stands, and go get the rear locked. Getting the rear to lock might be another battle if you don't use them. If working properlly you can just get it locked in the driveway and pull right in the garage. This must be done to insure the axle's slide back in.

The six axle nuts can be loosened with the tire on the ground. Make sure to use penetrating lube prior. If they have been on there since the factory in 97 they won't be too easy to take off. 5 of 12 broke on mine. Using a map gas torch to heat them up first will also help if they are stubborn. I had new ones from the dealer waiting so wasn't worried about broken studs

Make sure you have the 2 bolts that thread into the outer axle flange to help get the axle out. I dont know the size.. I just found some in the scrap bolt bucket.

Also not sure about the SST... Maybe to set the preload on the bearing?? If so I used two large screwdrivers and put in adjusting nut wholes then take another long screwdriver perpendicular and turn.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

It should lock on stands and lock easier than on the ground. Just turn the dial and spin a tire.

 

[IdahoDoug]

It will lock on the stands as Cimarron says. Just low range, engage rear locker, turn one axle by hand until it clunks into place. Then to loosen 6 bolts, again no need to put tires on, etc and waste time. Pull the hand brake and the axle won't spin. Waste of time to suggest putting tires on, etc, etc.

Be sure to wipe the metal debris off the ABS sensor carefully - yours looks to need a wipe. Order new screws to hold the lock ring in place - they often strip and are cheap through Cdan who will advise you do the same when you call.

DougM

 

[scrowley]

If the OP never has turned on the lockers then what's the chance that thing is going to lock while on stands. I would say slim. but I guess we will see if he reply's

 

[Romer]

It will lock on the stands as Cimarron says. Just low range, engage rear locker, turn one axle by hand until it clunks into place. Then to loosen 6 bolts, again no need to put tires on, etc and waste time. Pull the hand brake and the axle won't spin. Waste of time to suggest putting tires on, etc, etc.

Be sure to wipe the metal debris off the ABS sensor carefully - yours looks to need a wipe. Order new screws to hold the lock ring in place - they often strip and are cheap through Cdan who will advise you do the same when you call.

DougM

Correct

 

[inkpot]

If the OP never has turned on the lockers then what's the chance that thing is going to lock while on stands. I would say slim. but I guess we will see if he reply's

The chances of it locking are the same regardless of whether it is on ground or stands. Either it works or it doesn't. John

 

[scrowley]

ok. sorry to op for wrong info/waste of time

Just curious but why have so many ppl had to go on dirt and do figure 8's like crazy for their lockers to engage? I figure a lot of wheel spin. How can this be mimicked on stands?

 

[inkpot]

ok. sorry to op for wrong info/waste of time

Just curious but why have so many ppl had to go on dirt and do figure 8's like crazy for their lockers to engage? I figure a lot of wheel spin. How can this be mimicked on stands?

Engage locker, lift one wheel and set on jack stand, rotate tire until axle shaft splines are aligned so locking collar can move into Locked position. If actuator is good, engagement will happen. If actuator is bad, then you have work to do.

 

[LINUS]

ok. sorry to op for wrong info/waste of time

Just curious but why have so many ppl had to go on dirt and do figure 8's like crazy for their lockers to engage? I figure a lot of wheel spin. How can this be mimicked on stands?

To add a little to inkpot's post - the basic design of the locker in the rear is different than the front & it doesn't engage as easily as the front all other things being equal - the coarse teeth in the dog gear of the rear don't have the opportunity to lock up as easily as the front design, and really unless you are in a place where you are pulling freespin on one side in the rear, all it's doing is following the front end around (under desirable conditions), but to a lesser extent so doing 8's in a dirt lot aren't going to lock it as fast as say the OP's situation where he's already on stands & can just hold one side & let the other rotate till the teeth on the dog gear bite & lock the diff.

 

[scrowley]

Gotcha. I am not sure why I passed that in my head...The lockers lock when the rear wheels move differently and not in sink / wheel spin

 

[lnnguyen01]

Thanks for all the replies! I went out of town after posting but will try Tues/Wed.

Stupid question but how will I know the locker engaged? Will I hear or feel the clunk after turning the axle?

It will lock on the stands as Cimarron says. Just low range, engage rear locker, turn one axle by hand until it clunks into place. Then to loosen 6 bolts, again no need to put tires on, etc and waste time. Pull the hand brake and the axle won't spin. Waste of time to suggest putting tires on, etc, etc.

Be sure to wipe the metal debris off the ABS sensor carefully - yours looks to need a wipe. Order new screws to hold the lock ring in place - they often strip and are cheap through Cdan who will advise you do the same when you call.

DougM

 

[LINUS]

Thanks for all the replies! I went out of town after posting but will try Tues/Wed.

Stupid question but how will I know the locker engaged? Will I hear or feel the clunk after turning the axle?

You won't be able to rotate either side driveline if in park w/ CDL locked & the diff lock is in action. If you don't have a button, then just shift in low range & the CDL & ABS lites go on. Or stick a screwdriver through the universal joint close to the trans case to let the handle catch the body to prevent rotation. Hit the RR locker & it'll flash in the cluster until it locks then it goes solid lit - confirmed by not being able to rotate either side shaft. Just remember to pull the screwdriver/prybar before dropping it off the stands or spinning the driveshaft for any reason.

 

[lnnguyen01]

I got it locked on the jack stands with no problems! Now waiting on parts to proceed with axle service.
Thanks to all for the help!

 

[lnnguyen01]

Just FYI for those looking for the SST 09509-25011 Rear Axle Bearing Lock Nut Wrench. It's 3-4 weeks backorder through cdan.

I got this from a past IH8MUD thread. http://toyota.spx.com (800)933-8335 $49 ships out by this Friday.

Also any suggestions as to what to use to clean off all the grease/differential oil from the brake parts? Will brake cleaner work?
Thanks

 

[LINUS]

Just FYI for those looking for the SST 09509-25011 Rear Axle Bearing Lock Nut Wrench. It's 3-4 weeks backorder through cdan.

I got this from a past IH8MUD thread. http://toyota.spx.com (800)933-8335 $49 ships out by this Friday.

Also any suggestions as to what to use to clean off all the grease/differential oil from the brake parts? Will brake cleaner work?
Thanks

A trick I learned from an old timer is that if you spill brake fluid on pads & it's not soaked in it for say more than a couple days is to 1st wipe it clean, then hit it with brake cleaner & wipe, let air for ~20 mins, then wave a cutting torch flame over the pad material & watch the absorbed liquid bleed out to the surface - then wipe, brake clean air & torch one more time.

This is for pads that got hit & you get to in the week, like if you rip a hose on the trail - if they downright sat soaked in fluid for months/yrs, it's just time for new pads.

 

[western flyer]

A trick I learned from an old timer is that if you spill brake fluid on pads & it's not soaked in it for say more than a couple days is to 1st wipe it clean, then hit it with brake cleaner & wipe, let air for ~20 mins, then wave a cutting torch flame over the pad material & watch the absorbed liquid bleed out to the surface - then wipe, brake clean air & torch one more time.

This is for pads that got hit & you get to in the week, like if you rip a hose on the trail - if they downright sat soaked in fluid for months/yrs, it's just time for new pads.

Not to be nanny, but:

Please be careful around brake cleaning fluid and heat. Many brake cleaners contain tetracholoroethylene, which can break down into phosgene gas under heat. Chlorinated cleaners combined with heat is what you want to avoid. Note: Some brake cleaners are not chlorinated.

Phosgene gas is highly toxic. It was used as WW I chemical weapon gas. Please read these links.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MHMI/mmg176.pdf

 

[lnnguyen01]

Hi, does anyone know what the part my finger is pointing to in enclosed pic is? (pic may be upside down)

The little plastic cover fell off and I can put it back on but it's very loose. I'm afraid it's going to fall off easily if I don't do anything else and just put everything back together as is.
Thanks!

 

[LINUS]

Not to be nanny, but:

Please be careful around brake cleaning fluid and heat. Many brake cleaners contain tetracholoroethylene, which can break down into phosgene gas under heat. Chlorinated cleaners combined with heat is what you want to avoid. Note: Some brake cleaners are not chlorinated.

Phosgene gas is highly toxic. It was used as WW I chemical weapon gas. Please read these links.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MHMI/mmg176.pdf

Not being a "nanny" at all - heck, I didn't know that myself - just was taught to really let those pads dry before hitting with the torch, and that must be why. Seriously, thanks!

I never have liked the chlorinated cleaner for some reason, so I never buy it - to me chlorine goes in the laundry & pools, not my toolbox - but again, still didn't know your point so good to learn!

It's amazing what you learn on mud.