Thx
Rear axle seal leak (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter xychromosome
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thx
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I can't help with a shop recommendation, but if you have basic hand tools, you can do this yourself in an hour. I would recommend checking the other side by pulling the hub and verifying there is only grease in there. If there is no oil contamination, you only have to repair the leaking side. If, on the other hand, there is oil in the bearing grease, you need to replace the seals, even if there's no external leakage. Because there will be very soon.
Whether you do it, or have it done, plan on replacing the diff oil too. When you drop it, you'll find the bearing grease has contaminated it. That's what you see on the tire. The diff oil has made its way past the grease seal, and mixed in with it, then worked its way back out. Both the drain and fill plugs need new sealing washers.
You also will likely need a new brake disc/drum, as the diff oil will have soaked the cast disk metal. That's not too good for the brake pads.
I just did this on my '94 this summer. In addition to the diff oil and brake disc/drum, I had to replace the parking brake shoes; they were soaked. The bearing preload is critical; I had it too tight the first time around and it generated quite a smoke show during the initial test drive.
Even given all that, the job only took about two hours, and that was due solely to the bearing preload problem (I now have a spring scale, so that won't ever happen again - the first time I did it by "feel", which you can do, you just have to learn what "feels" right). I was lucky; I didn't have to wait for parts, which would have been a minimum of two days, even from Jacksonville. I stole the parts of my '95. Good news is that now the '95 has brand new parts
FWIW, you do not have to buy the seals and bearings from Toyota; they're standard parts, and way cheaper if you buy them from bearing/seal distributors.
Whether you do it, or have it done, plan on replacing the diff oil too. When you drop it, you'll find the bearing grease has contaminated it. That's what you see on the tire. The diff oil has made its way past the grease seal, and mixed in with it, then worked its way back out. Both the drain and fill plugs need new sealing washers.
You also will likely need a new brake disc/drum, as the diff oil will have soaked the cast disk metal. That's not too good for the brake pads.
I just did this on my '94 this summer. In addition to the diff oil and brake disc/drum, I had to replace the parking brake shoes; they were soaked. The bearing preload is critical; I had it too tight the first time around and it generated quite a smoke show during the initial test drive.
Even given all that, the job only took about two hours, and that was due solely to the bearing preload problem (I now have a spring scale, so that won't ever happen again - the first time I did it by "feel", which you can do, you just have to learn what "feels" right). I was lucky; I didn't have to wait for parts, which would have been a minimum of two days, even from Jacksonville. I stole the parts of my '95. Good news is that now the '95 has brand new parts
FWIW, you do not have to buy the seals and bearings from Toyota; they're standard parts, and way cheaper if you buy them from bearing/seal distributors.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the info. Looks like leak is pretty recent as I only see fluid leak at one location on rotor and on wheel and it hasn't made it's way to the rotor brake surface (BTW, this is a GX460 with brake rotors not drum). Maybe I got lucky there and just have to replace the seal and not the brakes.
When you mention 'pulling the hub', that already is past my auto knowledge and capabilities
so I will call around some local shops and see if they can work on this for me.
When you mention 'pulling the hub', that already is past my auto knowledge and capabilities
so I will call around some local shops and see if they can work on this for me.
I agree with @Malleus that this is simple, at least on my 80. I’m an idiot but was able to do this in about an hour after reading up on it and having in hand all of the parts needed (I told my, now retired, parts guy what I had to do and he sent me what I required).
I say that not to try to get you to tackle it yourself, just to understand that you can the next time it’s needed. It also suggests that any halfway decent shop can knock this out in your short time frame.
I say that not to try to get you to tackle it yourself, just to understand that you can the next time it’s needed. It also suggests that any halfway decent shop can knock this out in your short time frame.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks. I guess I would like a shop to look at it in case it ends up being a more complicated job, e.g. wheel bearing, which is something I just don't have the time, tools or skill to tackle right now. Will update once the problem is fully diagnosed.
Check that the cap on your axle breather hose is not clogged up with gunk. They do clog and when that happens, heat in the diff builds pressure in the housing that seeks the path of least resistance. Often times it is through the axle seals. While unlikely, it is possible that you may find a clogged breather and once it is unclogged, the leak may dry up and go away. Had it happen. Worth a try. Even if you do replace the seals, you'd better make sure that breather is open or it could happen again.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for that suggestion. I actually came across this in a youtube video and had a look at mine and it seemed to be pretty clean and I was able to jiggle it without seeing any obstruction. I will have the shop double check that though.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
FWIW, replacing the bearings is about as hard as changing a tire. Plus, you get to beat on it with a hammer (unless you have a friend with a press, then it's a better job, but not nearly as much fun).
- Thread starter
- #9
I think I need to 'see one then do one' before I attempt a repair like this!
Anyone replacing their axle seals/bearings any time soon?
little_joe
SILVER Star
Seems what people are missing is this is a GX - so, not a free floater. If it's the seal at the end of the axle housing, you'll need to pull that axle shaft out: in which case, do the bearing (and rotor, parking brake shoes, and pads) as well. This is something to farm out imho unless you have the time, patience, and knowledge to do it yourself. Reinstalling the parking brake alone is absolute s***work.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, I'm waiting on a bearing wrench from some Aussie; it's supposed to be here next week.I think I need to 'see one then do one' before I attempt a repair like this!
Anyone replacing their axle seals/bearings any time soon?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It's no different on an 80. The parking brakes are only a PITA if you let them think they're smarter than you.
80s have parking brakes? I thought it was just a lever that makes a maraca sound in the cabin.
- Thread starter
- #15
Update:
Had the axle seal fixed. Had a shop do it for me (Pinnacle auto in Holly Springs). They had to drain the diff oil, disconnect parking brake and remove backing plate to get to the seal. Then reconnect everything, bleed brake lines and refill diff to complete job.
I think I may be the first GX owner to have this seal fail. I searched online and could only find examples of early 2000 4Runners with a similar issue. Thankfully the bearing was still good, so didn’t end up replacing that.
Had the axle seal fixed. Had a shop do it for me (Pinnacle auto in Holly Springs). They had to drain the diff oil, disconnect parking brake and remove backing plate to get to the seal. Then reconnect everything, bleed brake lines and refill diff to complete job.
I think I may be the first GX owner to have this seal fail. I searched online and could only find examples of early 2000 4Runners with a similar issue. Thankfully the bearing was still good, so didn’t end up replacing that.
Green Hell Mustang
Designer, Hack Photographer
No, that's to pull off sweet J turns
Hi there! I live in the same area and am having a similar leak with my LX. Any chance you remember what pinnacle cost you? I was quoted $800+ by another shop that I can’t fully believe is a fair price. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #18
Yep, unfortunately that's what I paid ($836). TBF, I was in a rush and didn't have time to shop around as I was headed on a trip within a couple days. They took my truck in on short notice and also accommodated a follow up visit to make sure the new seal was seated correctly.
I typcially take my truck to Renaissance in Cary, but I assume they would charge similar.
Good to know, thank you!
IF the GX is like the LX 470 and 100 series, and IF the shop did the job properly (which I'd bet money they did not) it is legitimately an $800 job. The LX and 100 series is a semi-float axle without C-clips, same as a Tacoma. I'm pretty sure the GX uses the same set-up. It is held in the tube by bolts from the hub through the backing plate into the housing. To get to the seal, the rear brake caliper and parking brake have to be removed. The bell crank is disconnected, ABS sensor comes out and the rear brake line has to come off. Then the bolts holding the axle to the housing through the backing plate can be removed and the axle slid out. Usually the seal goes bad because the bearing is bad, in which case the axle sealing ring and bearing are pressed off the axle using a special press tool. The seal is replaced and the axle is fitted back up with a new sealing ring and bearing. Then the brakes go back on and then that corner needs to be bled. Here's a video that includes the use of a special press tool to remove the sealing ring and bearing.
