Rear 1/4 chop

[89s rule]

Yeah, that decal would be a TOUGH mofo to find! Even worse than the woody.
Nice looking rig too and a CLASSIC shot of the recovery. Often when I say I have a landcruser, most people will respond with..."Oh, I love land ROVERS..." I guess its an easy mistake for the lay person to make...
The liner I got DID have a tintable mix!
Im not sure what the difference was from one company to the next (Im assuming not much), but I do recall him pointing out the tint stuff to me!
It was 80 bucks for the kit, and as I mentioned, I didnt even use half of it for what I did, in fact, I added extra coats just to use up what I mixed which also included the rear wheel wells.
I used the roller for my application, and a brush for the tight spots.

Chicago

You used hippo liner? Where did you get it from? Web page or anything on it? Kinda curious what colors they had, or if it was anything.

Oh forgot to say, my side pattern is paint, not a decal. Wonder how far 2 kits of that stuff would go? I could coat my entire rig! Gy in our club has an 80 thats fully coated.

 

[chicago]

You used hippo liner? Where did you get it from? Web page or anything on it? Kinda curious what colors they had, or if it was anything.

Oh forgot to say, my side pattern is paint, not a decal. Wonder how far 2 kits of that stuff would go? I could coat my entire rig! Gy in our club has an 80 thats fully coated.

I got it from a local paint and body store not too far from here!
It says that one kit will coat 50 sq ft.

I thought that was a factory decal...

Chicago

 

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Chicago...I own a sign shop...so let me tell you wood grain is the easiest to do in vinyl. Call Fellars (look on line) and order a 15 or 24" roll of wood grain vinyl and slap it on...n oneed to have anyone cut it for you...just take an exacto to it after its applied. If fellars won;t sell it to you..have a local sign shop order it for you and you are set.

How about you get started on some "Disco Stripes" for all of us...I'm sure you'd get a HELL OF ALOT OF ORDERS!

 

[Tofudebeest]

I believe Hippoliner is identical to Herculiner.

You also need to hit that lower edge of the tail gate.

If it we're me, I'd lose that wood. Some think it's 80's fabulous, I just think it looks cheesy and tacky. Do you own fake trees in your house?

If we want Disco striping, custom for a 60/62, Dirty Toad and Dirty Toadette are the people e need to talk to, since vinyl is their business (and they own a 60).

 

[89s rule]

I believe Hippoliner is identical to Herculiner.

You also need to hit that lower edge of the tail gate.

If it we're me, I'd lose that wood. Some think it's 80's fabulous, I just think it looks cheesy and tacky. Do you own fake trees in your house?

If we want Disco striping, custom for a 60/62, Dirty Toad and Dirty Toadette are the people e need to talk to, since vinyl is their business (and they own a 60).

Can anyone else confim hippo is the same as herculiner?

For disco stripes, etc follow this thread. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=84458

 

[boots4]

I'd say ditch the wood. I think it looks too busy with the liner, the wood, and the regular paint. I do like the lined fender wells. Now you got to paint your frame!

 

[chicago]

I believe Hippoliner is identical to Herculiner.

You also need to hit that lower edge of the tail gate.

If it we're me, I'd lose that wood. Some think it's 80's fabulous, I just think it looks cheesy and tacky. Do you own fake trees in your house?

If we want Disco striping, custom for a 60/62, Dirty Toad and Dirty Toadette are the people e need to talk to, since vinyl is their business (and they own a 60).

HA HA!
I really dig the woodgrain, and the more s*** I got about it...I loved it even more!
However, it MAY be ruined with the liner which I happen to like more than the woodgrain.
The DS is complete, so Ill see how that looks when that side is done.
Im planning on the tail gate, but I might have a line on a new (used) one that has no rust, so Ill wait to see about that before I waste the liner on a hatch and gate thats gonna be replaced.

Thanks for the input.

Chicago

 

[chicago]

Got the DS all but finished...Still have some more weld filling to do on the rear 1/4, then some bondo and primer, then the liner!
I did have to pull the front fender to get at that pesky rust on the lower corner near the door...

Here's updated pics!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

The repair!

 

[chicago]

The finish!

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Nice progress, Keith! That'll look perfect after some bedliner. You sir, are a quick study.

It doesn't seem you are getting warpage while running somewhat long beads for sheetmetal. That's great heat control you've got. I personally do nothing past a long series of tacks, pausing, and jumping between each area to avoid overheating the panel. Good work.

I see you've taken a liking to the HF air saw, as well, eh? For me, it beats an air grinder and cut-off hands down.

 

[brokenparts]

not too shabby... How big of a pain in the butt are those front fenders to pull. I've got some major surgery that needs to be done to mine. I wonder if it will be easier to cut on them off or just leave them on and cut?

 

[rchalmers3]

I vote Black and Blue.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Looks good, thats what I plan to do this summer. But why are you bothering with bondo to smooth stuff out when your putting liner over it and probably wont notice a difference?

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Looks good, thats what I plan to do this summer. But why are you bothering with bondo to smooth stuff out when your putting liner over it and probably wont notice a difference?

cause he knows it is there probally.

I would do the same thing.

 

[chicago]

Nice progress, Keith! That'll look perfect after some bedliner. You sir, are a quick study.

It doesn't seem you are getting warpage while running somewhat long beads for sheetmetal. That's great heat control you've got. I personally do nothing past a long series of tacks, pausing, and jumping between each area to avoid overheating the panel. Good work.

I see you've taken a liking to the HF air saw, as well, eh? For me, it beats an air grinder and cut-off hands down.

Thanks Wile E,
I havent noticed the warpage as much of an issue unless the part that Im doing is a small pach, then there is definately warpage in that confined space, but Im surprised what Ive been able to get away with. That 18G you recommended is the SHIZZZZ!

BrokenParts,
The fenders are actually quite easy to get off once you find all the bolts to hold them on...I obviously didnt take off the entire fenderwell cuz I didnt need to.
The bolts on the firewall had eluded me for some time...It took a bit of head scratching to find those. I think there are 5 or 6 there, also there are a couple of 10mm bolts on the valence and around the headlight brackets that stumped me...Id I had it to do over again, Id DEFINATELY remove the fender again. Its saved soooo much head ache and as I mentioned, once you know how the bolts are, its really a SNAP...It only took me an hour to fully reassemble the fender start to finish!

Landcruisin60,
As Cruisinfj60 said...cuz Ill know its there...Ill kick myself if its F'd up looking afterward knowing that I just LAZED OUT and didnt take the extra time to make it look right.
Im a perfectionist of sorts...not to the extreme, but just enough to be anal when necessary.

Thanks for watching!

BTW, the woodgrain is about HALF gone...Its a LOOOONG process getting that crap off. Ive been doing that waiting for the bondo to dry.
Ive been using a propane torch, heating the decal and pulling it off...
If anyone has any better ways of going about it PLEASE let me know!

Thanks,

Chicago

 

[adamsclarke]

There's no easy way to remove old decals....that's why I charge so much to do it. keep what you are doing...heat it till it peels easily and start pulling. They make a rubber earaser for your drill, but it wears out too quickly and you still have clean up when you're done. If yuo can park it in the sun for awhile...it'll soften it up so you can save the propane torch.

 

[brokenparts]

Thanks for the info Chicago!

 

[chicago]

There's no easy way to remove old decals....that's why I charge so much to do it. keep what you are doing...heat it till it peels easily and start pulling. They make a rubber earaser for your drill, but it wears out too quickly and you still have clean up when you're done. If yuo can park it in the sun for awhile...it'll soften it up so you can save the propane torch.

Thanks Adamsclarke,
That is what I thought!
Its a PAINFULLY LOOOOOOONG process. Using the torch has been the best way thus far.
What are you using to remove the adhesive film left?
I had used WD40 and it did OKAY, but if theres anything better/ Faster Id appreciate the recommendation.

Thanks,

Chicago

 

[chicago]

Thanks for the info Chicago!

Anytime!
Love to help the community that has helped me so much!

Chicago