Real time STARTER help (1 Viewer)

[bstein]

What happened? I'm in a similar position this morning. We have a 2009 with ~110k and it just clicks, along with dash not entirely normal. Replaced battery, same issue. Click and no turning.

Brian

 

[TexAZ]

I tested the starter relay, and used a remote start switch and tested the start signal going to the starter and all seemed good.

After reading through several tundra threads, the common culprit seems to be the solenoid that sits piggyback on the starter.
I can't find anything else it could be.

I replaced mine with an Autozone starter that worked great....for a day. I'm in the process of installing a remanufactured Denso (original equipment) starter from Napa. The autozone was 155, the denso 251, and from dealership $356. I recommend the Denso, just because it took 7+ hours the first time to swap out the part. it isnt technically difficult, but every nut and bolt is a pain in the @$$ to get to.
If you are stuck and need to move the truck, there is a fairly simple technique to "bypass" the solenoid.

DIY starter saver. 5.7 - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

I did this to get my truck home. it works, and simultaneously proves that the solenoid is the culprit.

hope this helps.

 

[mark71]

Having to take off the exhaust manifold to replace the starter sucks, but just saw the replacement procedure for the 4.7...holy crap! You have to take off the intake manifold!

 

[TexAZ]

yeah...scary to think one of the Tundra guys with a great write up on the procedure said he would rather do another 4.7 than the 5.7.
it isn't technically difficult at all....just a TOTAL pain to work on. several were required to maintain sanity!

 

[mark71]

WD-40 and beer, the two essential lubricants for auto work!

 

[bjowett]

Sorry I missed this. As you found out, there are many cheap rebuilds around. The reman Denso was a good choice. Time to finish this project.

 

[TexAZ]

So, round 2. Removed VatoZone crap starter and installed Denso rebuilt unit. Second time around much easier, simply from knowing what combination of universals and breaker bars for each nut and bolt. Tried about a dozen starts just to make sure everything is 100% good to go.

One thing I noticed, on the original when boxing it up for core return, the vent tube on the bottom was filled solid with carbon/graphite from the starter. It was time to get a new one...

 

[Softride62]

hey guys, 2008 114K miles, starter out! got a new one installed at dealer for $1200 , sounds different than the original, definitely newer version. Bad new is these dang things are under everything, got to take out manifolds, covers, etc etc . I was a little shocked to have to get a new starter at 114K... but now I should be good to go to 200K miles, which is my goal.

 

[hankinid]

About using a substitute solenoid...is the solenoid integral to the starter, meaning does it simply supply high current or does it also engage the starter gear with the flywheel? If it's the former, seems like something HD by Ford would work...Ford tends in my experience to locate solenoids on top of the fender well, where it's way less than to R&R.

 

[bjowett]

The solenoid supplies the current and it does engage the starter gear... So the remote solution is out.

I finally competed dissecting the solenoid. Despite the testing of it showing worn starter contacts, upon opening the little bugger, the contacts were found to NOT be worn out. My best guess now is that the plunger was slightly jamming, though it did not appear to be an issue, or the copper bridge that jumps the two contacts was slightly crooked and only hitting one contact.

 

[blatant]

bumping as i found this interesting

 

[BTUMAN]

So from 110 to 150k plus it could go out. This really makes you worry where you go places like Big Bend where it would make for a really bad day. Have we determined this is like the water pumps- mainly affecting 08 an 09 models? I mean, this is not something it sounds like you could just keep in the truck as a spare and field change. This may be the equivalent to the 100 series "T" heater fitting curse.

 

[steenh]

I think I'll just put this on the list of things to change at 120k maintenance just to be safe. Keep me running to 240k without having to worry about when it is going to die.

 

[bjowett]

This may be the equivalent to the 100 series "T" heater fitting curse.

Oh, you get to do those, too.

Heater hose Tees...

 

[BTUMAN]

Oh, you get to do those, too.

Heater hose Tees...

Great- but we have some folks with 200k miles and no failures yet, right?

 

[bjowett]

I have yet to hear of any hose T failures in the newer generation..

Blatant. I do not have any new information to add concerning the solenoid.

 

[Rigger]

Pretty sure my 08 is on the original starter and original water pump. Maybe I need to buy them both and have them in hand.

 

[TexAZ]

@BTUMAN the starter doesn't fail completely. you can jumper the solenoid and drive back to civilization. just takes two people, a reallllly long screwdriver, and some patients.
If you were driving out in Big Bend, have jumper cables, tools and lots of water ;-0

 

[blatant]

For discussion, do y'all think the push button starter on the 200 should last longer / less wear and tear, than a manually turned key, prolonging the life? "Push button = sequence happens" no chance of over crank, etc?

 

[delmandi]

I think ours just went out, just a click and nothing else, batt voltage is good and less than a year old. A buddy quoted me about 150 for a remanned starter from car quest. Haven't called NAPA yet. I just don't know if I have the ability to swap out where she sits at the house and I can't get the 40 started to winch it onto the the trailer. FML! when it rains it pours, dealing with a bunch of medical issues right now and baby is due any day! FML!