Real time STARTER help (1 Viewer)

[LWA55DAL]

Do not do a reman. New they are around $300 - I think. I did my starter on an 08 Sequoia and it took about 4 hours with new gaskets etc. it's not hard but you do have to remove the exhaust manifold on the passenger side and also unbolt the power steering pump. You can buy just the solenoid but for the time and $ - just replace the starter.

 

[TexAZ]

Look back in this thread on the "procedure" to bypass the solenoid. have your buddy help you. jumper cables and a looooong screwdriver. it will get you going to drive to a shop, or driveway of your choosing.
the napa reman is a denso part. top quality. avoid the $150 option. mine lasted exactly 3 starts before dying.
the job isn't complicated, just a total pain in the @$$. the exhaust is so close to the frame it takes a lot of patience and finagling to get it out of the way. I didn't have to move the power steering pump.
lots of extensions, crows foot, and monkey hands that can bend in ungodly angles to get to the heat shield bolts.....

 

[mark71]

Should we post the Solenoid Bypass Procedure in the FAQs?

 

[BTUMAN]

I wish there were pictures...hard to visualize.

 

[delmandi]

well its getting towed in the morning. Insurance is covering it. My buddy is going to fix it at his shop, he's the one who did all the major maintenance at 115k or whatever milage the bigger one is.
I started, got the heat shield bolts removed, verified the car quest was a Denso and was going to pick it up, but after pondering on how the hell to get that heat shield out and a ton of shoulder pain I gave up.
I was in a car accident the end of july and had a major surgery on my shoulder, truck repairs are something that will need a little more healing before I'm able . Thanks for the help.

I also think that it would be a good idea to post that procedure to FAQ....
...and the wife could have mentioned that it was not wanting to start a week ago, she summed it up to not pressing the brake hard enough.....oh well...

 

[LWA55DAL]

I have the service manual in Word for the replacement, but not familiar with how to post. Happy to do it is someone will help, or just PM me and I will send the file.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Here is the parts diagram. The start is directly underneath the exhaust manifold. It takes time, but it is NOT that bad of a job.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Given my experience with the 08 Sequoia - I would suggest the water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, alternator brushes and starter at the same time. If anyone is going to long haul the 5.7 with over 120k I would do all of them AND I would also do the Trans fluid. Just my 2 cents. Yes - you can do the alternator brushes and NEVER buy a reman from anyone - 99% of the time all you need are brushes and the alternator is about $700.

 

[delmandi]

All the fluids and plugs were just changed about a month ago, dunno if I will have the cash for water pump and pulleys till next month. Baby due in a week and me being on disability really has us strapped right now.

She gone to the dr now, hopefully none of my rover buddies see her on the ambulance! I'll never hear the end of it!

LWA55DAL I would be interested in he manual download if you are able to post it.

 

[mark71]

That's certainly not a common sight. Might go viral.

 

[art5519]

Well, this day has come sooner than I hopped for. I've got a 2009 with 116k miles. For the past year or so have had few instances where I would hit the start button and nothing would happen. Sometimes it would take few tries. Couple of times after few attempts - I would use the remote start function (which btw works all the time) to start the car, stop and restart again using the ignition button. It seems that this issue will happen more in the colder months. However, last weekend the battery died. After replacing the battery the car would give me the dreaded 1 click and nothing happens. Waited few hours, started fine. Took it to the dealer and had them replace the starter, as they advised. At the same time had them replaced both front shock absorbers, both were leaking. As said, for 2009 with 116k miles all driven in Texas having to foot all these repairs (last year waterpump too) - is not what I was expecting from LC.

 

[Markuson]

Well, this day has come sooner than I hopped for. I've got a 2009 with 116k miles. For the past year or so have had few instances where I would hit the start button and nothing would happen. Sometimes it would take few tries. Couple of times after few attempts - I would use the remote start function (which btw works all the time) to start the car, stop and restart again using the ignition button. It seems that this issue will happen more in the colder months. However, last weekend the battery died. After replacing the battery the car would give me the dreaded 1 click and nothing happens. Waited few hours, started fine. Took it to the dealer and had them replace the starter, as they advised. At the same time had them replaced both front shock absorbers, both were leaking. As said, for 2009 with 116k miles all driven in Texas having to foot all these repairs (last year waterpump too) - is not what I was expecting from LC.

Take heart...

Water pump & starter around 120k is about right, actually. Same on my 100 series, too, for that matter.

Shock absorbers... Meh...

You're having issues with perhaps the lowest tech items on the truck. Not shocking at all.

 

[CLHickman]

I'll concur with @Markuson with everything he said.

As far as your starter, I'm surprised it limped a year, that is pretty dang good. Also, I'm assuming you didn't notice the shocks until the dealer mentioned they were leaking?

Both the shocks and starter are built with cycles in mind not miles. If that battery was the original then I'd also say hot dang that is really good. Almost 9 years, assuming it was built and sold in '08.

Anyway, I believe most are recommending owners that @ 120k miles they should replace the starter and water pump together. It might be costly to have dealer do it, but it is money well spent as far as preventive maintenance goes. Or you could save a bit and get your own hands dirty. There are a few DIYs regarding both in the forum.

Cheers!
Chris

 

[RET2]

Let me demonstrate how dufus I am by asking what if prophylactically one was to add a short very well insulated lead that was connected somehow to the copper cable or correct terminal and left the other end not terminated but secured and more easily accessed? Thereby making a field recovery easier? OK boys flame on

 

[Willy beamin]

 

[bjowett]

This thought has crossed my mind several times. The old school redundancy of it is beautiful.

Let me demonstrate how dufus I am by asking what if prophylactically one was to add a short very well insulated lead that was connected somehow to the copper cable or correct terminal and left the other end not terminated but secured and more easily accessed? Thereby making a field recovery easier? OK boys flame on

 

[TeCKis300]

How much more effort is it to change the starter if one is already doing the water pump?

 

[RET2]

This thought has crossed my mind several times. The old school redundancy of it is beautiful.

I am the epitome of old school ... really really old school, seriously. I could see this being used on a serious expedition type vehicle where field repair is not an option?

 

[bjowett]

Yes, definitely.

 

[TonyP]

How much more effort is it to change the starter if one is already doing the water pump?

Roughly 100% more effort. Just about nothing you need to remove for a water pump is the same as what you need to remove for a starter.