Real high oil pressure
- Thread starter dogpen2
- Start date
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What engine??
The oil pressure relief valve must be stuck..........
I'm surprised the filter didn't blow........
The oil pressure relief valve must be stuck..........
I'm surprised the filter didn't blow........
Agreed. MIke
When you pull the pan and remove the oil pump post up some pics.
- Thread starter
- #5
Oil pressure relif is not stuck, took it apart to check also tried a different pressure relif and still same problem. I tried adjusting the spring tension and no change. Checked the bypass lines and they are open,hole in block for return is open. I don't understand how the pressure can get so high since it has several outlets that it is pumping oil out of.
1F
Well, now you mention by-pass lines.......so I searched and see you have another thread on high oil pressure.......
If your sure you have the plumbing can of worms is straightened out and the relief valve is function / installed correctly......
I'd check-out the relief valve in the pump body itself.....(spring and check valve/ball in pics below)......
If its been converted to a screw-on filter?....... check the flow route on it as well (pic below)...........
Well, now you mention by-pass lines.......so I searched and see you have another thread on high oil pressure.......
If your sure you have the plumbing can of worms is straightened out and the relief valve is function / installed correctly......
I'd check-out the relief valve in the pump body itself.....(spring and check valve/ball in pics below)......
If its been converted to a screw-on filter?....... check the flow route on it as well (pic below)...........
What year motor is it? Only reason I asked because on real early F motors I've heard you could install the external oil pressure regulator backwards and have the same issue you have. Also I believe if you have the oil lines switched on that type system you might have the same issue. But I don't know first hand.
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Yup, well if it was electric you know where I was going. Stock oiling system is outa my area but will watch with interest.
- Thread starter
- #13
For some reason "pressure relief installed backwards" from a reply stuck in my head and after looking
at coolermans pictures again it is backwards, I change that this weekend and see what happens. I wonder what else will turn up as I go thru this rebuild?
Thanks
at coolermans pictures again it is backwards, I change that this weekend and see what happens. I wonder what else will turn up as I go thru this rebuild?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #14
It's really amazing when the parts are installed correctly how everything works as it should. I turned the pressure relif to face the correct direction and it now carries about 35lbs. at cold idle. Thanks to everyone for the help.
Doing some investigation on too high oil pressure, as indicated by the re-birth of this thread.
My story.
Ihad replaced the head gasket last year with one that came with a CCOT kit(not that I'm questioning the quality but I've heard stories) and was running the beast for a while and then noticed the white steam smoke from exhaust and overheating. I was 10 miles from home, added fluid and drove it home. I could start it without a problem after that but did it only to move it around.
Well, I just got around to fixing:
1.) Drained the oil(level was high on stick) and found water/antifreeze(sat for a week with no oil)
2.) Pulled the head off and replaced gasket with a Felpro that statted years(68-73 or 74 from Autozone). Note the CCOT gasket had more holes where many did not line up with holes on the head or block(They seemed to be deadended). The Felpro had some also but not as many and I made sure that holes were present where head and block holes lined up.
3.) Put everything back together(had broken and replaced with a rubber O-ring (is that OK?) one of those hard plastic seals on the end/middle of one of the rocker rails that seals the joining fitting that accepts the copper oil line).
4.) Start engine runs really rough. Checked and adjusted valve settings and some were way off. Started back up and ran much smoother.
Now, within 2 minutes the oil pressure gradually climbed to the upper 4th quarter of the gauge where I have never seen it rise. I pulled the cover again and see oil dripping from the rail. Should oil be shooting out of the rocker rail when running or just trickling?
I see talk of pressure relief valves but not sure where they are. From the images there is one in the oil pump? One in the oil filter (I did replace the oil filter with a new Fram that had been sitting in my garage (could that valve be stuck?). Is there another and where?
Why would these relief valves be sticking now? Water in the oli? Would letting the oil sit for a while loosen up any stuck relief valves?
Thanks in advance,
John
My story.
Ihad replaced the head gasket last year with one that came with a CCOT kit(not that I'm questioning the quality but I've heard stories) and was running the beast for a while and then noticed the white steam smoke from exhaust and overheating. I was 10 miles from home, added fluid and drove it home. I could start it without a problem after that but did it only to move it around.
Well, I just got around to fixing:
1.) Drained the oil(level was high on stick) and found water/antifreeze(sat for a week with no oil)
2.) Pulled the head off and replaced gasket with a Felpro that statted years(68-73 or 74 from Autozone). Note the CCOT gasket had more holes where many did not line up with holes on the head or block(They seemed to be deadended). The Felpro had some also but not as many and I made sure that holes were present where head and block holes lined up.
3.) Put everything back together(had broken and replaced with a rubber O-ring (is that OK?) one of those hard plastic seals on the end/middle of one of the rocker rails that seals the joining fitting that accepts the copper oil line).
4.) Start engine runs really rough. Checked and adjusted valve settings and some were way off. Started back up and ran much smoother.
Now, within 2 minutes the oil pressure gradually climbed to the upper 4th quarter of the gauge where I have never seen it rise. I pulled the cover again and see oil dripping from the rail. Should oil be shooting out of the rocker rail when running or just trickling?
I see talk of pressure relief valves but not sure where they are. From the images there is one in the oil pump? One in the oil filter (I did replace the oil filter with a new Fram that had been sitting in my garage (could that valve be stuck?). Is there another and where?
Why would these relief valves be sticking now? Water in the oli? Would letting the oil sit for a while loosen up any stuck relief valves?
Thanks in advance,
John
Oh
it's a 1971 F engine.
Thanks again,
John
it's a 1971 F engine.Thanks again,
John
Help please High oil pressure!!!!
I pulled the external relief valve, smoothed out the grooves on the metal piston, re-installed and piston moved smoothly(I don't believe it was binding before but touched it up anyway).
I still have the high oil pressure issue.
Over a span of 5-10 minutes, the oil pressure gradually climbs to the 4th quarter of the gauge and then I shut it down. Reving the engine did not seem to accelerate the pressure climb much.
With regard to the oil pump relief valve, would adding motor flush or Marvel Mistery oil be worth trying to loosen any bound valves, as opposed to jumping to dropping the oil pan and dismantling the pump?
Thanks,
John
I pulled the external relief valve, smoothed out the grooves on the metal piston, re-installed and piston moved smoothly(I don't believe it was binding before but touched it up anyway).
I still have the high oil pressure issue.
Over a span of 5-10 minutes, the oil pressure gradually climbs to the 4th quarter of the gauge and then I shut it down. Reving the engine did not seem to accelerate the pressure climb much.
With regard to the oil pump relief valve, would adding motor flush or Marvel Mistery oil be worth trying to loosen any bound valves, as opposed to jumping to dropping the oil pan and dismantling the pump?
Thanks,
John
First, calm down.
The OEM instrument is a SUGGESTION AT BEST.
Until you install a mechanical instrument and come up with actual numbers of what is going on at idle cold and hot and at high idle cold and hot, you do not really have any idea of what is happening with your oil pressure.
It could be something as simple as a failing oil pressure sending unit.
I'm notpanicking just hoping someone would read my questions before it got buried like yesterday.
I saw your response before regarding buying a real pressure gauge but I, as the one who responded to you then, feel that the gauge that has been on it for the 20 years I've owned it, has been a fairly reliable indicator.
Regarding the possibility of a bad sending unit, I can swap one of those out (thanks for the suggestion). Assuming the pressure is high, what are the other possibilities. Do you have answers to my other questions?
Thanks,
John
I saw your response before regarding buying a real pressure gauge but I, as the one who responded to you then, feel that the gauge that has been on it for the 20 years I've owned it, has been a fairly reliable indicator.
Regarding the possibility of a bad sending unit, I can swap one of those out (thanks for the suggestion). Assuming the pressure is high, what are the other possibilities. Do you have answers to my other questions?
Thanks,
John
Which other question? The Marvel Mystery oil? Couldn't hurt. But the stock gauge climbing gradually, unaffected by RPM sounds suspiciously like a bad sender.
Concur that a real oil pressure gauge would be a good idea. Certainly before dropping the pan. Also, do you still have that Fram oil filter on it?
Concur that a real oil pressure gauge would be a good idea. Certainly before dropping the pan. Also, do you still have that Fram oil filter on it?
