Ready to pull the trigger on 200 suspension upgrade (4 Viewers)

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I purchased the same TD kit from Jason, but have yet to install it. Really hope that the amount of lift is as close to 40 mm (1.6 in) in front and 20 mm (0.8 in) rear as possible because that will leave me with 1 - 1.5 in clearance to top of garage entrance. This is really important to me because I like to work on the LC inside the garage late at night.
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You should be fine. I was still able to roll into a standard garage with these shocks/springs and I had 35s. Unless you have a tall roof rack, in which case it depends on the rack.
 
I just ordered a TD kit thru Jason - I went with light duty coils front and rear, non adjustable 41 mm front shocks and adjustable 45 mm rear shocks. Jason mentioned the 45 mm adjustable front shocks can be pretty firm without extra weight up front and I’m keeping the front end stock.

I’ve got the 1” Toyota spacers right now and am planning to install them with the new TD coilovers to net about 3” of total lift up front. I’ve got about 1/4” of rake right now, so if the rear springs really only provide an inch of lift I should probably look into some rear trim packers? Hoping to get closer to 2” out of the rear springs since I don’t have any extra weight in the truck. I am adding sliders but that should distribute weight pretty evenly front to back.

Sounds like you guys have more weight in and on your trucks @SQRRRL and @linuxgod - how much lift do you think I’ll get with light coils on an otherwise stock LC?
With sliders and 12.5 gal. Aux fuel tank the height of the rig is not changed. The only time I see the rear get lower is when the tank is full. With the front spacers you installed and TD suspension you should sit level front to rear. If you want rake consult TT for the new tour flex rear springs. It might give the hight your looking for but the ride quality might suffer.
 
You should be fine. I was still able to roll into a standard garage with these shocks/springs and I had 35s. Unless you have a tall roof rack, in which case it depends on the rack.
I do have tall Bajarack roofrack and KO2's ... It's gonna be slow rolling into garage every time to avoid that bump to the top :)

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Bajarack Rear Rev'd .jpg
 
My Tough Dog kit came today, as many others have mentioned I'm blown away by how beefy and well built the components are! Can't wait to get everything installed, looking forward to the improvements in both stance and ride quality. I am adding SPC UCA's to get alignment within factory specs since I'll be close to 3" of lift up front.

Based on my experience I believe you'll get what TD states for an unloaded vehicle, and a bit less as you load up the rig. Ages ago when I did my TD install I took before and after measurements, so if you search enough you'll eventually find them. I got about an inch in the rear and 2 in the front when my only mods were a roof rack and sliders

Thanks for the input, that is very helpful! Getting back to the LH vs. RH spring location, I see those markings clearly on the rear springs but not on the front coilovers - I assume the fronts are the same height and thus either can go on either side of the LC?

With sliders and 12.5 gal. Aux fuel tank the height of the rig is not changed. The only time I see the rear get lower is when the tank is full. With the front spacers you installed and TD suspension you should sit level front to rear. If you want rake consult TT for the new tour flex rear springs. It might give the hight your looking for but the ride quality might suffer.

That's good to hear, thanks! I'll plan to have some 10 mm OME trim packers on hand the day of the install and use them as needed - I'd like to end up with 1/2" -3/4" rake unloaded so the truck won't sit low in the rear when loaded or towing. I've seen the tour flex coils in Jason's thread, looks like an awesome product for the right application but I don't load my truck down regularly enough to justify them.
 
Getting back to the LH vs. RH spring location, I see those markings clearly on the rear springs but not on the front coilovers - I assume the fronts are the same height and thus either can go on either side of the LC?

Fronts are the same height and interchangeable
 
Hello gents,

I too am about to pull the trigger on a suspension lift and this thread has provided lots of good info so far. Basically, I am looking for ~2 in of lift for use in weekend warrior activities and potentially some towing in the future. I have received recommendations from both ACC Garage here in ATL and Trollhole's Cruisers in Greenville, SC that the Icon stage 1 setup is the way to go. They've also told me that new UCAs are recommended as well. Just looking for advice on whether I should proceed the aforementioned way or save a few bucks and go w/ the OME stock load kit? Thanks for the gouge...

Cheers,
Jake
 
I am trying to make the same decision on my 2018 LC as well. Shops tell me that as long as you don't go higher than 2 inches in the front with the Icon you don't need new UCA, but I would like to hear that from someone who actually put it in their rig.

Icon would not tell me their spring rates so I could compare directly to OME (which publishes their spring rates), so I am a little concerned that I might have more rear sag when loaded with the dual-rate Icon rear coils. Would also like to know if anyone with the Icon lift actually got 1.75 inches of lift in the rear like Icon claims it will give. I measured a new (unsettled) setup with the OME medium rear coils (OME2772) and it looked like 2.25 inches of lift, even though OME claims 0.75 inches.

I really don't overload my vehicle: run stock bumpers, but tow a 3.5K trailer with about 375 lb tongue weight using a weight distribution hitch.
 
I am trying to make the same decision on my 2018 LC as well. Shops tell me that as long as you don't go higher than 2 inches in the front with the Icon you don't need new UCA, but I would like to hear that from someone who actually put it in their rig.

I tried the 2" ToughDog lift without new UCAs first. The shop popped the cam bolts loose but couldn't get caster more than about 1.5 degrees, which is too low. I tried driving it for a while but it felt sketchy on the highway. 5000 miles later with the SPC arms installed and set at +2 the alignment shop got them all the way out to +4.3 degrees.

Maybe my suspension needed to settle more?

Trying to avoid UCAs cost me $100 for a second alignment, plus about 4 hours in my driveway. YMMV.
 
Thanks for the input Geoff; that's what i was thinking, even though shops may say otherwise. The LC Castor spec is 2.2 to 3.7, anything less than 2 would definitely be unacceptable and generally a little more than 3.7 doesn't hurt. Thinking about the Total Chaos (2 deg built in castor) or Icon Delta Joint UCAs over SPC (1 deg built in castor). It seems any would work well with a 2 inch front lift.

Any comments on Icon vs OME? Any data on the rear lift heights?
 
I did another alignment because I felt the steering was a bit touchy. Feels much better.
I’ll make the call on UCA’s after my next road trip this week.
Will advise.
 
Hello gents,

I too am about to pull the trigger on a suspension lift and this thread has provided lots of good info so far. Basically, I am looking for ~2 in of lift for use in weekend warrior activities and potentially some towing in the future. I have received recommendations from both ACC Garage here in ATL and Trollhole's Cruisers in Greenville, SC that the Icon stage 1 setup is the way to go. They've also told me that new UCAs are recommended as well. Just looking for advice on whether I should proceed the aforementioned way or save a few bucks and go w/ the OME stock load kit? Thanks for the gouge...

Cheers,
Jake
 
On my 2014 LC I got a lift to level out the front of the vehicle with back height (icon coilovers). I went to get the alignment at my local Toyota shop. They said they could not get the alignment in spec due to the ride height being unlevel in the front. Left side of vehicle is aprox 1/2 inch lower than the right.

They did try to align the front end which got rid of the shopping cart feel it had, but it pulls to the right.

I asked the shop that installed the lift and they said the pulling to the right had nothing to do with the left side being lower than the right.
They told me to take it to another Shop for alignment. I did and it still pulls to the right. I went back and the switched the front tires. This did not work. The vehicle still pulls right.

So...is the uneven lift causing it to pull to the right?

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@LC Mike, I went with SPC because they're easy to grease and the ball joint is easy to replace when the time comes. I didn't need the extra articulation that the TC can provide, ICON was super expensive, and the SPCs were abut $525. FWIW I would not recommend going >3.7 degrees of caster if you run 34s... mine on the PS is at about 4.3 and it rubs the sway bar at full lock.

@Russell Brown, max of 1/2" of lean left-to-right is within spec, but any lean will cause a little bit of torque steer. If the pull comes and goes when you go on/off the throttle, that's at least partially why. your alignment spec looks ok to me above. You might also look for a n adjustable panhard rod, since your rear is probably slightly misaligned with the lift and that will cause you to walk down the road like a crab and will cause a bit of torque steer too
 
When I started this thread I was in the same place. I was 90% sure I was getting OME. I ended up, due to much advice going totally other direction with Tough Dog outta Australia. Only had a couple weeks but very very happy with it. I did 45mm adjustable rear so I can make it as firm or soft as I want in 20 seconds. OME not adjustable and even icon you have to get to the much higher end trim line to get adjustable. Highly recommend, only slightly more $ than OME but way less than Icon. In general you just get more for your money. Hit up @reevesci he is the US importer and gave me tons of advice. Here is a pic post lift

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Your rig looks awesome. What size tires?
 

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