Ready to buy my first LC, thoughts on this underside? I GOT IT!!

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mycars

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Joined
Jan 17, 2021
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Location
North Carolina
Hello Mudders,

I am finally ready to buy my first LC and am looking at one nearby in Wilmington, NC. Here is a link to the rig. The Carfax is available on that link and shows an minor accident in March 2017 to the left front.

The dealer has provided the following info on the history of it:
"Truck has never been off-road, never pulled anything, and has only been as far North as Richmond, VA. Regarding ownership, my wife’s Uncle purchased the vehicle new and titled it in his business name. He then transferred it to his personal name once it was paid off. He traded this in on an 18’ Landcruiser( he has only driven LandCruisers since 94) and my father in law then drove the vehicle for around 2 years. My wife’s family owned a Toyota franchise in Clinton, NC for over 30 years and recently sold it in 2016. As I like to say we drink the Toyota Kool aid."

It's listed for $47k, which is a little outside my budget, but it is low mileage and with a one-owner history that seems pretty solid. On the other hand, it has an accident on the Carfax and I would like to hear opinions on the underside.

So last but not least, a couple pics of the underside below. Thoughts?

8E146562-315B-4B13-B366-282B8C105BF1.jpeg


16B173D3-E8B1-471B-8040-3BFF97C1BC2E.jpeg


C4A9A631-A5B6-4EB7-996D-CABE928E6EB2.jpeg
 
It looks good to go. Typical rust along the welds, but it is well within reason for the mile(age) and will not be difficult to do rust mitigation and prevention if this is something you desired.
 
I'd love to hear some East Coast opinions but it looks pretty good to me!
 
It looks good to go. Typical rust along the welds, but it is well within reason for the mile(age) and will not be difficult to do rust mitigation and prevention if this is something you desired.
Thanks for the quick reply! What does rust mitigation and prevent look like? Spraying fluid film on it once a year or just doing regular washes every 1-2 weeks? I am new to the LC world so I appreciate your help and understanding of my novice level of knowledge.
 
Regular washes and then fluid film or even copious amounts of WD-40.
 
Everyone has their preference and methodology but as long as you use some sort of oxidation barrier once a year you will significantly slow down the rusting process. I am a big fan of woolwax myself.
 
Crazy market. I bought my 2013 in 2015 with 43k miles for 50k out the door (~$46 plus tax/fees).

163k now and built. Don’t regret it for a second.

This one looks good. If you can afford it and set on an LC, go for it.
 
Kdss valve condition? If you can’t turn them, suspension work will suuuuuck
 
Kdss valve condition? If you can’t turn them, suspension work will suuuuuck
This.

Also, two of the engine tray bolts are missing. Most likely others are as well.

As for the rust.. while I personally would pass, only because I'm an absolutist on the issue, this looks totally manageable for most people. You'll likely deal with a stuck bolt or two over your ownership, but it's not going to fall apart and you probably won't find anything cleaner without paying a big premium any time soon.
 
This.

Also, two of the engine tray bolts are missing. Most likely others are as well.

As for the rust.. while I personally would pass, only because I'm an absolutist on the issue, this looks totally manageable for most people. You'll likely deal with a stuck bolt or two over your ownership, but it's not going to fall apart and you probably won't find anything cleaner without paying a big premium any time soon.
@linuxgod and @bloc Thanks for the tip on the KDSS valves. I am hoping to see the truck in person some time this week and definitely plan on checking out the condition of the KDSS valves. I have done some research on the forum about this, but since I am very new to LCs, the valves are located on the passenger side correct? Kind of inboard to the wheel well? And I should take a socket wrench to test their ability to rotate a full turn? Does any of that sound remotely close to accurate, haha? And what is the seriousness of the engine tray bolts missing? Thanks for your help!
 
Driver side below the rear door area on the inside of the frame rail, hidden behind a protective plate with access holes. I'd be surprised if the owner would let you try to turn them, but can't hurt to ask. If you do this, under no circumstances go near or beyond 3 turns as you can depressurize the system.

In this market, I'd have cash in hand and move fast on any vehicle I was hoping to buy. They disappear out from under you with another more motivated buyer. Even at these inflated prices.
 
Driver side below the rear door area on the inside of the frame rail, hidden behind a protective plate with access holes. I'd be surprised if the owner would let you try to turn them, but can't hurt to ask. If you do this, under no circumstances go near or beyond 3 turns as you can depressurize the system.

In this market, I'd have cash in hand and move fast on any vehicle I was hoping to buy. They disappear out from under you with another more motivated buyer. Even at these inflated prices.
If you can take an allen wrench to them to see if they turn, you don't need to go anywhere near 3 turns to see if they'll work. Literally if they pop loose and turn any they're good, and if you can't move them then you're boned. 1/4 turn is more than sufficient to confirm (but to your point, yes don't go more than 3 full turns ever!) Note that in my experience I had to use a small brass pipe slid over my allen wrench as a "cheater bar" to get some leverage because from the factory these were tight (even with my truck which came from Houston and had zero rust underneath).
 
Agreed, but if some rando off the internet was looking at my 200 and asked if he could turn the KDSS screws, I would be inclined to say no. If they weren't knowledgable, they could potentially depressurize the system. There are just way too many people out there without enough knowledge that the risk/reward isn't there for me. I would be willing to demonstrate that the valves move on my own vehicle for a potential (qualified) buyer.
 
@linuxgod and @bloc Thanks for the tip on the KDSS valves. I am hoping to see the truck in person some time this week and definitely plan on checking out the condition of the KDSS valves. I have done some research on the forum about this, but since I am very new to LCs, the valves are located on the passenger side correct? Kind of inboard to the wheel well? And I should take a socket wrench to test their ability to rotate a full turn? Does any of that sound remotely close to accurate, haha? And what is the seriousness of the engine tray bolts missing? Thanks for your help!
Those bolts are easy to snap on vehicles in rust country. They seize, and especially for people that take a vehicle to a dealer, the techs commonly snap bolts like that during service. I can't tell you how many have had skids, access panels, etc left off of the vehicle. I've personally had many factory skid bolts on Tundras, Tacos and a 4Runner snapped by dealer oil change techs, that I only discovered when I went to do the next service myself. That is one reason (amongst many) that I do my own service work.
 
The missing bolts on the undercover are easily replaced and often not reinstalled by a lazy tech doing lube work. No biggie but do replace them. Edit: note what @CharlieS wrote about broken bolts.

The Carfax shows 7 services in the last approximately 6k miles, including 2 A/C refrigerant recharges. Likely a leak somewhere?

Also, the cabin filter has been replaced, so confirm the fresh/recirc function is working properly since breaking the mechanism during replacement is common.

Radiator ok? Leaks at the top are frequent at about that mileage.
 
If it's at a dealer they may be willing to put the truck on a lift and have a tech see whether the bolts will turn. Just stress, absolutely not more than 3 turns, and have them use a good allen bit, you do not want this to round out. I agree if they move 1/4 turn, you are good. They technically need to be closed again with the vehicle on flat ground though.. so a 4-post lift where the truck stays on it's wheels is better for this if possible.

Also, even if they won't turn, many have been able to get moving, and this truck looks better than some of those did in general. But it is still a big risk.

Yeah the missing engine tray bolts aren't a big deal.. happens a lot. The two that are missing are in a line of four, so it's possible they just left them out.
 
Those bolts are easy to snap on vehicles in rust country. They seize, and especially for people that take a vehicle to a dealer, the techs commonly snap bolts like that during service. I can't tell you how many have had skids, access panels, etc left off of the vehicle. I've personally had many factory skid bolts on Tundras, Tacos and a 4Runner snapped by dealer oil change techs, that I only discovered when I went to do the next service myself. That is one reason (amongst many) that I do my own service work.
Best to snap them before you own the vehicle and you can walk away! ;-)
 
This.

Also, two of the engine tray bolts are missing. Most likely others are as well.

As for the rust.. while I personally would pass, only because I'm an absolutist on the issue, this looks totally manageable for most people. You'll likely deal with a stuck bolt or two over your ownership, but it's not going to fall apart and you probably won't find anything cleaner without paying a big premium any time soon.
What rust? :meh: Maybe my northern genetics prevent me from seeing it. Can’t see okra as a vegetable either and chicken and waffles are not meant to be eaten in the same meal.
 
What rust? :meh: Maybe my northern genetics prevent me from seeing it. Can’t see okra as a vegetable either and chicken and waffles are not meant to be eaten in the same meal.
You wouldn’t believe my friend’s 13LX with 130k on it then. Even mine has very mild stuff on the welds due to a few ski trips.
 

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