A RX thought it would be fun to ram into my parked LX, and I caught it on video!

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Another thing to check is your rear hatch alignment. Those hinges are strong and very well might have pushed your roof line up on that side a bit. An easy check would be a leak test. The seal on that side wont keep water out anymore if it's tweaked and you might not be able to compensate for it in adjustment without it getting tweaked back down.
 
The problem with the 200 is the high salvage value. It totals when hull value less cost of repairs > salvage.

FWIW, I'd start going through BaT or CnB listings to see if you can find recent comps. Insurance won't give you anything close to making you whole on your mods. And I hate to say this, but it's the game... it's too bad you weren't in the vehicle as not signing the medical liability release is a big carrot.

Have a friend with an old Tacoma that was recently totaled. The Taco had easily 2x the hull value in mods. Ended up getting an attorney to make him whole, which worked very well for him. It's a bummer, but this is going to be a hobby for you for a while.
 
I'd be less worried about major structural damage because of those "after" videos. Dissent bumper peeled the RX fender like a tuna can, which probably took A LOT of energy out of the collision.

LOL at RX being an old lady car. My daughter and wife both drive LX's and I give them both s*** for this :hillbilly:
 
What do you mean by twisted drivelines?

The tube of the driveshaft itself can twist up. Even a few degrees can cause problems but will be invisible to someone that doesn't have the right equipment.

My 80-series had a slight driveline vibe for a while that I attributed to a bad joint. I finally got around to putting new joints in, which didn't change the condition, and when I brought it to the shop for balancing they noticed it was twisted maybe 5 degrees. They said that can be caused by a neutral drop on a heavy vehicle.. but what happened to yours would be in the same ballpark. Something must have happened in the 270k miles before I got it because that wasn't my doing.
 
Here’s a quick daylight assessment, and I’m planning on taking it to a Lexus dealer’s collision center. I have a friend of a friend that works there and we’ll see what they come back with.

 
Here’s a quick daylight assessment, and I’m planning on taking it to a Lexus dealer’s collision center. I have a friend of a friend that works there and we’ll see what they come back with.


Looks like that bumper took the brunt of it. I am amazed the rear door, AHC, tailgate and hatch all function normally.
 
Sad to watch. This would greatly impact our family as we use ours for so many family oriented activities.

I really hope they take care of you and indemnify completely.
 
Dissent should post your videos (collision and aftermath) to their website, and send you a replacement bumper wing for free. I know I'm sold!

In you shoes, I would negotiate as best I could to get a non-totaling payout, replace the bumper wing pay a body shop to straighten out the quarter panel as well as they reasonably can and get a junkyard liftgate. Leave the rest alone and pocket as much as you can for gas money. That is shockingly minimal damage!
 
Is anyone familiar with specifics on how to deal with this? Her insurance called me today and basically told me that I can go to any shop I wasnt, but they have "in network" shops they can recomment. I'll be dealing with Liberty Mutual, and as mentioned earlier, I'm more concerned about the mechanical components vs aesthetics. A collision shop would handle the hatch/tailgate, quarterpanels/paint/ Frame, but would they have the mechanical knowlege for the drivelines/trans/bearings/joinmts?

Who do you have for insurance, and do you have collision coverage? You can go through that as opposed to Liberty Mutual and her property damage coverage. Sometimes the in-network shops have better post-repair warranties (defects in paint, missed damaged items), but it's unlikely they will check drivelines. They'll fix body panels and obviously broken items. If you have a trusted mechanic, I would take it there first and have everything assessed (geometry, etc) before you let them do an estimate.
 
The problem with the 200 is the high salvage value. It totals when hull value less cost of repairs > salvage.

FWIW, I'd start going through BaT or CnB listings to see if you can find recent comps. Insurance won't give you anything close to making you whole on your mods. And I hate to say this, but it's the game... it's too bad you weren't in the vehicle as not signing the medical liability release is a big carrot.

Have a friend with an old Tacoma that was recently totaled. The Taco had easily 2x the hull value in mods. Ended up getting an attorney to make him whole, which worked very well for him. It's a bummer, but this is going to be a hobby for you for a while.
^^^ this.

@radman, I've been down this road with my highly modded 2013 LC. The long saga is in my thread on the accident. 200 LCs salvage all day long at $20K almost regardless of condition if they run. The auction market is the middle east. I bought my wreck back for $19K, stripped all the mods and most of the drivetrain, swapped to the new 200 and auctioned off the "re-stockified" wreck for $20K. Bidders from Iraq, Afghanistan, and a California office of a middle eastern co were the real bidders. I don't want to know where its at or what its being used for now...

The key with insurance is to get the valuation to include your mods if you are trying not to have it totalled. Of course that's a two edged sword if you buy the wreck back as they may also include the mods in the salvage value. In my case, I didn't want the truck totalled and wanted it repaired. I made a comp list of every 2011-2015 200 LC for sale or that had recently sold in the US. I also listed all the mods and the cost plus provided all invoices. I came up with what I felt was the value and ultimately got my insurance co to revalue it with the mods (they used CCC for the valuation). The point here is that this is a negotiation. If you want, I'm happy to share my spreadsheet so you can see how I compiled the data and made my argument. Just DM me.

On a side note, in my case, it was all but impossible to find a body shop willing to even touch it. My body damage was much worse than yours and affected the whole passenger side and roof. in the end, even the shop that had agreed to repairing it, killed it with the first supplemental estimate making the repair $10K more than the value of the rig (they really didn't want to do the work). If you don't have any drive train damage, you maybe have a chance to not be totaled if they value the mods. Also, rules for totaling a vehicle vary by state. In KS (where I'm at), the cost of repair can't exceed 75% of the vehicle value. Not sure about TX.

Sorry this has happened. It really sucks.
 
My frame is fine, and her insurance is covering about $15k worth of body work. The plan is for the lexus collision shop to put the stock bumper skin on, and then I'll deal with reinstalling the Dissent.

I'm not sure what the units of measurement are, but it sure looks fancy...

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That sounds like best case for you I think. You don't get stuck with a salvage title at least. Really need to make sure that driveline is good to go though. When they checked the chassis did they check the position of the rear axle relative to it?
 
Doesn't pre-loss condition include the Dissent bumper? Seems like a waste to repair and paint the tupperware only to pull it back off.

Are they also buying you a new rear from Dissent?
 

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