*** read this if you have Ironman uca ***

[overrovers]

Hi gang,
Had a heck of a day ball joint blew got a new one and replaced but about 10 miles down the road we lost a drivers side cv.

Question is can we remove the drivers CV and drive home ?

 

[Sandroad]

I don't know the answer to your question, but post 3 in this thread has FSM info and other posts have info about R&R for the axle.

About to replace my front cv axle

Good evening, dudes I've had a torn cv boot for a bit and am going to replace the whole axle with a new, fresh Toyota axle. Haven't seen much in the way of a 200 specific cv axle replacement but know that our front ends are very similar to the Tundras. Searching on the YouTube, I believe some...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[tbisaacs]

You’ll lose a bunch gear oil. I’d pick up a Napa CV or something and stick in it.

Is the Ironman UCAs that were recalled?

Good luck man, tough situation.

 

[bloc]

You can leave the CV cups in the diff and knuckle to prevent leaks. Engage the center diff lock to send full power to the rear driveline to avoid smoking your torsen center diff.

Separating the CV shaft from the knuckle-side cup will be tough but it’ll pull out with enough force to compress the c clip. Then dig out the star, cage, and balls, if possible. Just to keep them from flying once you get up to speed.

 

[overrovers]

Thank you for the help everyone! Think a cheap nappa part is the way forward.


They are the iron man ucas and we are so lucky it didn’t give out on the highway pretty terrifying when you cant control the car with the family on board

 

[Boston Mangler]

Holy Hell!

Glad you and fam are ok!

 

[TeCKis300]

Sorry to see that!

A cheap and easy option could be to get a grinder with a cutoff wheel or sawzall, and cut most of the CV shaft out. Leave the stubs on both diff and wheel side.

 

[overrovers]

Sorry to see that!

A cheap and easy option could be to get a grinder with a cutoff wheel or sawzall, and cut most of the CV shaft out. Leave the stubs on both diff and wheel

Sorry to see that!

A cheap and easy option could be to get a grinder with a cutoff wheel or sawzall, and cut most of the CV shaft out. Leave the stubs on both diff and wheel side.

I like this idea it will allow us to limp home and do the fixes properly and get new UPCs

 

[overrovers]

So lucky this didn’t happen on the highway

 

[Artie]

So lucky this didn’t happen on the highway
View attachment 3639867

Well hell… new fear unlocked.

 

[overrovers]

Well hell… new fear unlocked.

Absolutely …. I’m worried about the passenger side now

 

[TeCKis300]

This is my fear of aftermarket parts and I'll use OEM parts as long as it makes sense.

 

[overrovers]

This is my fear of aftermarket parts and I'll use OEM parts as long as it makes sense.

I’m going to switch to something not sure yet but I’m not risking this again

 

[Boston Mangler]

This is my fear of aftermarket parts and I'll use OEM parts as long as it makes sense.

I’m in 100% agreement with @TeCKis300 here

I’ve had every suspension variation under the sun and have learned all my lessons the hard way between myself and friends.

I’m doing my entire 200 build based on what I can do with stock OEM parts and mild lift versus more lift and needed aftermarket arms and such.

No more aftermarket anything unless 100% necessary.

My OEM stuff has lasted 213k from previous owners, so that’s my reasoning.

 

[TeCKis300]

I’m in 100% agreement with @TeCKis300 here

I’ve had every suspension variation under the sun and have learned all my lessons the hard way between myself and friends.

I’m doing my entire 200 build based on what I can do with stock OEM parts and mild lift versus more lift and needed aftermarket arms and such.

No more aftermarket anything unless 100% necessary.

My OEM stuff has lasted 213k from previous owners, so that’s my reasoning.

Yes. Same hard lessons learned from decades of modding. If something is going to fail, it's almost always the aftermarket stuff. Most are barely tested or validated. If they work, there's still the dimension of long term durability which never comes close to OEM parts.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Yes. Same hard lessons learned from decades of modding. If something is going to fail, it's almost always the aftermarket stuff. Most are barely tested or validated. If they work, there's still the dimension of long term durability which never comes close to OEM parts.

This!

And…. Social Media marketing plays a HUGE roll in peddling these parts.

I can’t even guesstimate how many folks I know personally that jumped on the Icon Big $ Stage Whatever shock bandwagon only to have them pissing oil within 10k. But…. Marketing…

I could go on for paragraphs but don’t want to derail your thread sir.

Close to home? Got a fix yet? What area you in?

 

[overrovers]

Finally home

 

[bloc]

Aftermarket parts = towed by a Chevy.

Consider the consequences of your decisions, people!

 

[overrovers]

Aftermarket parts = towed by a Chevy.

Consider the consequences of your decisions, people!

Can not agree more had a good long chat yesterday driving home and it’s going to oem parts

 

[Boston Mangler]

Can not agree more had a good long chat yesterday driving home and it’s going to oem parts

That is great to hear!