Raybestos brake pistons questions (1 Viewer)

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May 7, 2014
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Well, during the rebuild of my rear calipers, we found out the piston had some pretty good wear so we decided to replace it. I’m getting a little tight on cash, so I opted to use raybestos pistons instead of oem.. the new one is
1/2 mm longer
Grove is 1 1/2 mm closer to the butt end
1/2 mm wider grove

How much of an issue do you guys think this will cause?

IMG_4674.jpeg
 
Not a caliper piston expert, but are you using a Raybestos seal (or OEM) and does it fit snugly in the groove? Seems like the other critical dimension would be the OD, is that the same as the OEM piston? Also, is there any pitting of the piston bore?

Does the package indicate where the Raybestos piston was manufactured?
 
Not a caliper piston expert, but are you using a Raybestos seal (or OEM) and does it fit snugly in the groove? Seems like the other critical dimension would be the OD, is that the same as the OEM piston? Also, is there any pitting of the piston bore?

Does the package indicate where the Raybestos piston was manufactured?
Thanks for the reply. The OD is the same for both, the only difference is length and the grove placement and grove width. I’m using an OEM caliper rebuild kit. I don’t have the packaging handy, so I’m not sure where it was made. I’m tempted to use them, as they should seal up, just don’t want any issues down the rode
 
One WAG is if the seal doesn't fit snugly in the Raybestos piston it might want to buckle/move in the groove (gland) and then it may not seal well??

Wait for someone who's rebuilt a caliper using aftermarket parts to chime in.
 
You should be fine. The longer piston makes no difference. The differences with the width/placement of the channel for the boot look well within tolerance - that rubber boot is pretty forgiving. Make sure you're using a rubber grease around the seal here though as per FSM - it'll create a barrier to stop moisture or dirt getting into the piston. I've got a pretty comprehensive thread on brake system rebuilding you can refer to here:
 
With the piston being longer, your pretty close max length. With a new rotor and pads, your pushing the piston all the way back for clearance. I just rebuilt my rears and I think I had about 1MM clearance. Worse case is you remove a little friction material.
 
The best laugh I ever had was listening to two VaTech interns at work talk about replacing pads on their BMW over a weekend. They couldn't get the new pads over the rotor, so they spent hours sanding them thin enough to fit.
 
Looks like ~$10 for an aftermarket Raybestos rear caliper piston. Often it's cheaper/easier to just get a new caliper compared to buying parts to repair an old one. But then again sometimes money is tight and you do what you can do.


 
I've replaced the pistons with aftermarket in plenty of calipers on Nissan and Toyota rigs. Never had any issue. I have only used replacement seals from the same company though. I say, rock it.
 
I've replaced the pistons with aftermarket in plenty of calipers on Nissan and Toyota rigs. Never had any issue. I have only used replacement seals from the same company though. I say, rock it.
We got them together and everything looks good. Gotta replace one more line then bleed the system. Ready to have it back on the road

IMG_1500.jpeg
 

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