mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #21
Rate my TIPS (spark plug condition)
- Thread starter mudgudgeon
- Start date
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #22
ThanksSorry this replacement engine wasn't a plug and play win for you. Not needing another project and then running straight into troubleshooting after the effort to get this engine in and started has got to be frustrating.
It seems possible that the compression issue is from a cam timing issue, head gasket compression leak or valve adjustment/damage issue. A leakdown test followed by a valve train/cam timing inspection may be worth considering if nothing else comes up. Sticking borescopes into the cylinders can sometimes be informative and easy if you have one around though mostly for clearly visible issues like a steam cleaned cylinder.
Hope you catch a break on this or at least the solution falls into place satisfactorily. If fire is involved you could put on a paid livestream of the event for all of us to watch and contribute towards a replacement...
can you post photos of the actual plug wires please
- are they oem YAZAKI date coded or aftermarket ?
- if so what is the date
- what is going on under cap itself ?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #24
I really wanted this thing mobile under its own steam this weekend.
That isn't looking likely at all.
I'll have to figure out other ways of getting things done.
Ass got testing into it, I think at this point there's nothing to lose by opening the to end, inspect/tear down until I have a cause and hopefully solution to the problem.
Swapping HG doesn't scare me, if it's the obvious cause, and the bottom end looks ok. I had the sump off, and from underneath, everything looked as it should. No red flags that's for sure.
Tearing into HG will have to wait a week or two. I have other things more immediate to deal with.
That isn't looking likely at all.
I'll have to figure out other ways of getting things done.
Ass got testing into it, I think at this point there's nothing to lose by opening the to end, inspect/tear down until I have a cause and hopefully solution to the problem.
Swapping HG doesn't scare me, if it's the obvious cause, and the bottom end looks ok. I had the sump off, and from underneath, everything looked as it should. No red flags that's for sure.
Tearing into HG will have to wait a week or two. I have other things more immediate to deal with.
With where you're at now, if the bottom end of your donor engine looks good, what about sticking the head from your original engine straight on with a new gasket? Flush it out well with diesel to be sure it's free of any particles, and drop it on your donor bottom end, and you'll probably have a working engine without stuffing around further. Get a cheap head gasket from supercheap or repco and reuse your bolts, and just get it done.
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Compression test could be off because valves are not fully closing.
Dizzy tooth off, cam lobes worn, arrgh
possibly badly overheated.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #28
I know why it had no compression
Spent about 6 hours in the garage last night, put some tunes on and got in the zone.
Working at a steady pace, it took 5 hours to pull the head. 1 hour tidying first.
Everything went pretty fluidly, no set backs, no ahhh, shoulda done xyz first moments
I also spent some time checking valve clearances. They are all over the shop!!
Now, I need to strip the head, measure shims, check valves, change valve stem seals. Clean the head and block. Check the head is straight.
No.2 cylinder walls look like no 2 pot has had water sitting in the bore in the past. It has a little bit of rust mark on the bore, but it's old. I'm gonna ignore it, and button this back up.
Water galleries are all choked up at the head gasket. Looks like just a build up at the gasket though.
Spent about 6 hours in the garage last night, put some tunes on and got in the zone.
Working at a steady pace, it took 5 hours to pull the head. 1 hour tidying first.
Everything went pretty fluidly, no set backs, no ahhh, shoulda done xyz first moments
I also spent some time checking valve clearances. They are all over the shop!!
Now, I need to strip the head, measure shims, check valves, change valve stem seals. Clean the head and block. Check the head is straight.
No.2 cylinder walls look like no 2 pot has had water sitting in the bore in the past. It has a little bit of rust mark on the bore, but it's old. I'm gonna ignore it, and button this back up.
Water galleries are all choked up at the head gasket. Looks like just a build up at the gasket though.
Sorry for you troubles, hopefully it gets better from here.
That was quick work getting the head off.
That was quick work getting the head off.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks.
Everything was already clean and fresh. Not the first time I've pulled a head of a 1fz-fe unfortunately.
Fingers crossed I can get this back together with no more major headaches
Hopefully it's the downhill run now. What's the status with your rego? Do you need to get a blue slip now to get her back on the road?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #32
Yeah, unfortunately.
Means I'll have to fix the handbrake
And knuckles are oozing a bit to much for a blue slip
Well that's it then, time to part her out!Yeah, unfortunately.
Means I'll have to fix the handbrake
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #34
Noooooooooooooooooooo!Well that's it then, time to part her out!
But you're right. Parting it out is probably easier than getting the hand brake to work
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #35
Hopefully I'll have this fired up tomorrow.
Almost done buttoning it up.
The VRS kit I bought had no distributor housing o-ring, I had a spare so that's all good.
Also, the kit only had one bypass pipe o-ring, there's 3 in total. Hopefully I can get them from a parts shop tomorrow.
Putting the dizzy in per FSM
- Line up the groove in the housing with the little nub on the dizzy shaft gear. (I put a touch of yellow paint marker on them)
- line up centre of dizzy lock bolt slot with the centre of the lock bolt hole
- carefully push the dizzy housing into the timing case.
- dizzy timing should be pretty close by the look of it.
This takes the guess work out of lining up the distributor gear orientation.
Almost done buttoning it up.
The VRS kit I bought had no distributor housing o-ring, I had a spare so that's all good.
Also, the kit only had one bypass pipe o-ring, there's 3 in total. Hopefully I can get them from a parts shop tomorrow.
Putting the dizzy in per FSM
- Line up the groove in the housing with the little nub on the dizzy shaft gear. (I put a touch of yellow paint marker on them)
- line up centre of dizzy lock bolt slot with the centre of the lock bolt hole
- carefully push the dizzy housing into the timing case.
- dizzy timing should be pretty close by the look of it.
This takes the guess work out of lining up the distributor gear orientation.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #36
I ground a sharp edged groove into an old head bolt to use as a clean out tap for head bolt holes.
Deburr with a mill file.
Head bolts are 11x1.25mm, finding the correct size clean out tap is like finding rocking horse shìt.
This works like a charm if threads are in decent condition.
Nice clean, RTV free half moons
Service built in 2 piece exhaust cam gear.
I used a standard 6mm X 16mm Toyota bolt, and clipped the flat washer off for clearance to the bearing cap
Cams back in, timing gear still zip tied out of the way.
Intake cam in place. Oil bathed the head, and added lithium/molly assembly lube to journals
The good stuff.
I replaced head bolts. This head has been off before, I suspect the bolts were probably reused previously. These are from Precision Australia, a decent aftermarket manufacturer. Cost me $75 for the full set.
New head gasket in place.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #37
The block deck cleaned up ok. A little pitting in a few places.
Straight edge showed it as flat.
ThreeBond FIPG in place at the timing case just before dropping the head gasket on
Water galleries were partially blocked at the gasket surface with a weird fibrous stuff. It was wafer thin, and galleries seem clean and clear otherwise.
Head is nice and flat. Only concern is a bit of pitting between 1&2, but it's flat with straight edge.
Straight edge showed it as flat.
ThreeBond FIPG in place at the timing case just before dropping the head gasket on
Water galleries were partially blocked at the gasket surface with a weird fibrous stuff. It was wafer thin, and galleries seem clean and clear otherwise.
Head is nice and flat. Only concern is a bit of pitting between 1&2, but it's flat with straight edge.
Looking good! When you finally get this thing back on the road, we'll have to go for a drive somewhere together. 
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #39
Looking good! When you finally get this thing back on the road, we'll have to go for a drive somewhere together.
Definitely!
Was thinking that today. It's so long since I've been bush in this thing
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #40
My saga continues. This last round of shed time was going to smoothly!
Fúcker won't start, absolutely zero spark!
I changed a few harness connectors while I was doing the head and had the harness loose. I'm thinking I have a bad connection at one of them.
It started and ran before I pulled the head, so it's gotta be something I've touched, or I'm just plain unlucky.
Fúcker won't start, absolutely zero spark!
I changed a few harness connectors while I was doing the head and had the harness loose. I'm thinking I have a bad connection at one of them.
It started and ran before I pulled the head, so it's gotta be something I've touched, or I'm just plain unlucky.
