Rain Gutter and Top Restoration (4 Viewers)

[Homey15]

I wonder if they used fiberglass webbing to make the surface stronger and flat?

But if I'm understanding you, it's not impregnated with resin correct? It's more like fabric(soft/flexible) than the rock hard fiberglass of the rest of the cap?

 

[120mm]

My 1969 was like that and it just looked like sloppy assembly.

There is no reason to have unimpregnated fiberglass like that along an edge.

 

[Homey15]

There is no reason to have unimpregnated fiberglass like that along an edge.

This. Fiberglass cloth without resin is not waterproof and will hold moisture like any other cloth.

 

[jvincig01]

This. Fiberglass cloth without resin is not waterproof and will hold moisture like any other cloth.

Yeah. Could have been poor craftsmanship back in the day?

 

[Homey15]

Yeah. Could have been poor craftsmanship back in the day?

If I were to guess, I'd say they had a rationale behind it...maybe to soak up deviation in the mating surfaces? Regardless, it is a poor design (in my opinion) and I definitely wouldn't replicate it when going back together with yours.

 

[jvincig01]

But if I'm understanding you, it's not impregnated with resin correct? It's more like fabric(soft/flexible) than the rock hard fiberglass of the rest of the cap?

Correct

 

[bhsdriller]

Maybe it was a Friday at the plant and they wanted to get out of work faster

 

[numby]

I doubt anyone on the assembly line thought "I don't want to tick off a new owner 50 years from now when they're doing a resto. I better add some more epoxy."

 

[jvincig01]

I am no forensic scientist, but I am guessing they used fiberglass cloth with a thicker weave to build a flat surface. The epoxy they used to firm it up is still there in parts but its mostly deteriorated. To me, they didn't use enough. I will bring it to a boat shop and have them build it up using newer techniques.

 

[Timmytorq]

But if I'm understanding you, it's not impregnated with resin correct? It's more like fabric(soft/flexible) than the rock hard fiberglass of the rest of the cap?

I’m not sure if this will help or not but I had to replace a section of my original rain gutter I had to been destroyed by a rollover. I purchased a section from CCOT as others have mentioned on this thread. I ended up needing to get a donor fiberglass top because the one I had was totally filleted at all four corners I also purchased a rivet set from CC0T and with a lot of patience used a tack hammer to round all the rivets over. Once that was done, I used a two part 3M self leveling filler over the rivets in the gutters prior to painting the top and the rails. I had to make a ghetto press to use in my Quart caulk gun to make it work. If you are interested, And I wanted a clean look so I used the good stuff that was about $55 a tube. Approximately four tubes were needed

 

[Timmytorq]

I’m not sure if this will help or not but I had to replace a section of my original rain gutter I had to been destroyed by a rollover. I purchased a section from CCOT as others have mentioned on this thread. I ended up needing to get a donor piece of fiberglass because the one I had was totally filleted at all four corners I also purchased a rivet set from cc 0T and with a lot of patience used a tack hammer to round all the rivets over. What’s that was done I used a two part SEM self leveling filler over the rivets in the gutters prior to painting the top and the rails. If you are interested, I will do some investigating and find out what I used as a filler. And I wanted a really good luck so I use the good stuff that was about $55 a tube. Approximately four tubes were needed

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[Homey15]

That's the good seam sealer, exact product I would/will use for gutter sealing over rivets in the gutter lip.

 

[jvincig01]

@Timmytorq thanks for the great feedback and pictures. That's very helpful!!!

 

[Slapshot]

One product I don’t see mentioned a lot is Eastwood 2k self leveling seam sealer. It’s a true 2 part epoxy product that comes in a regular size caulk tube, so no special caulk gun needed. It goes on easy and takes paint well. You will need 2 tubes.

 

[jvincig01]

Looks like the factory did a nice job of sealing up the front under the gutter. The rest wasn’t nearly as clean as what is pictured here. I chipped away most of the bad stuff. Also took a measurement of the total thickness.

 

[jvincig01]

Got my rain gutter and other parts back from being media blasted. The windshield visor and door pieces came back great. I had them epoxy primered since they didn't need any work. They look brand new and are ready for paint!

The gutter is in a lot better shape than I thought it was going to be. There are a couple of spots where the years of rust got the best of it. I do not know how to weld so I will bring it to someone who can patch these spots for me. After that, I will epoxy primer it as well. Right now the gutter is bare metal.

 

[jvincig01]

Should I just solder these pinholes, cut them out and patch weld, or just leave it alone?

 

[Homey15]

Should I just solder these pinholes, cut them out and patch weld, or just leave it alone?

The couple spots on the straight section look like good contenders for cut out and patch. The pinholes in the round corner area I'd be inclined to try to just weld up.

 

[middlecalf]

The round flat areas can also be easily patched. Turn your welder friend loose…

 

[jvincig01]

I'm always amazed (sometimes frustrated) with what media blasting uncovers. Not sure what these numbers mean but they are on the inside/rear/passenger side of the rain gutter.