Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build (8 Viewers)

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Good idea!
I was fussing around with the OBDLink dongle, removing and inserting a couple of times and connecting to my phone.
I'll give that a try!
My first gig out of the chAir Force was high end home audio, and those early surround sound receivers would lock up their processors after nasty thunderstorms. People would un plug at home but only for a few minutes. Then take their system apart and bring them in, only to have them work perfectly on the bench.

They needed about 15-20 minutes of power loss to fully drain every capacitor and for the processor to truly turn off, and become unlocked up.
 
Here's a little tip for anyone who has a rear shelf in the back. I have the Victory rear quarter panels (GX Rear Window MOLLE Panel | 460 & 470 (03-23) - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VGXRMP.html) and rear shelf (Universal Upper Shelf - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/UNI-UPRS.html).
On the shelf I keep some small blankets/throws, tow strap and my trail tool bag. The other day I had to be on MCB Camp Pendleton and came across a couple Marines trying to change a tire on a Honda Civic. Needless to say I had all the tools needed to help them complete their repair except a torque wrench (pending) which usually is absolutely needed for tire changes. So I pack it all up and stuff it back onto the rear shelf, finish my business on base and go home. Don't drive my rig in a few day and when I do the battery is dead. I mean dead-dead...
Simple fix, take out the handy-dandy li-po starter, hook 'er up and she starts right up!
Now had to think why that happened and recall not too long ago my interior light (middle set I think) was left on).
Then it occurred to me that when I pulled out and pushed back in the tool bag that I tripped the rear interior lights.
Went and checked, sure enough they were on!

So as a heads up, it is near impossible to tell if those lights are on or not with a rear shelf. The only real way is wait till dark and see if there's anything "glowing" in the back. This is the problem with the slow dimming-to-off interior lights we have. you can't just close the door and see if they're on or not.
I'll have to look at the owners manual, but I'm not sure if there's a switch to slide to "Off" and not "Door Open" or "On" position.
So now I have to have the presence of mind to double check that I haven't tripped one of those lights on whenever I remove something from the shelf.
 
Here's a little tip for anyone who has a rear shelf in the back. I have the Victory rear quarter panels (GX Rear Window MOLLE Panel | 460 & 470 (03-23) - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VGXRMP.html) and rear shelf (Universal Upper Shelf - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/UNI-UPRS.html).
On the shelf I keep some small blankets/throws, tow strap and my trail tool bag. The other day I had to be on MCB Camp Pendleton and came across a couple Marines trying to change a tire on a Honda Civic. Needless to say I had all the tools needed to help them complete their repair except a torque wrench (pending) which usually is absolutely needed for tire changes. So I pack it all up and stuff it back onto the rear shelf, finish my business on base and go home. Don't drive my rig in a few day and when I do the battery is dead. I mean dead-dead...
Simple fix, take out the handy-dandy li-po starter, hook 'er up and she starts right up!
Now had to think why that happened and recall not too long ago my interior light (middle set I think) was left on).
Then it occurred to me that when I pulled out and pushed back in the tool bag that I tripped the rear interior lights.
Went and checked, sure enough they were on!

So as a heads up, it is near impossible to tell if those lights are on or not with a rear shelf. The only real way is wait till dark and see if there's anything "glowing" in the back. This is the problem with the slow dimming-to-off interior lights we have. you can't just close the door and see if they're on or not.
I'll have to look at the owners manual, but I'm not sure if there's a switch to slide to "Off" and not "Door Open" or "On" position.
So now I have to have the presence of mind to double check that I haven't tripped one of those lights on whenever I remove something from the shelf.
Might be worth looking for some super low wattage 168 bulbs
 
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Might be worth looking for some super low wattage 168 bulbs
I'm also thinking about either removing them (which I really don't want to do) or a shield over the switches so they can't be accidentally turned on.
 
I'm also thinking about either removing them (which I really don't want to do) or a shield over the switches so they can't be accidentally turned on.
Like this? You could add an inline switch as well that's normally off. A protected switch that cuts supply power.
 
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Like this? You could add an inline switch as well that's normally off. A protected switch that cuts supply power.
Great idea! Wasn't even thinking about tying both the left and right switch into one protected switch! That would be pretty easy.
 
Great idea! Wasn't even thinking about tying both the left and right switch into one protected switch! That would be pretty easy.
I was pretty poor during the Great Recession and bypassed the starter switch in my tacoma with various switches. The dome light pops out with a nylon prybar and some mechanical sympathy, and there should be plenty of room to sneak an aluminum backing plate in there.
 
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Well, my front Icon shocks have started to leak again, time for a rebuild. Love the shocks but having to rebuild them every 15,000 miles at a cost of over $400.00/shock is truly annoying.
What's the service like on those Ironman foam shocks? I'd like to find some shocks that'll give me my 3" of lift, full travel and not require such a costly maintenance.
 
Well, my front Icon shocks have started to leak again, time for a rebuild. Love the shocks but having to rebuild them every 15,000 miles at a cost of over $400.00/shock is truly annoying.
What's the service like on those Ironman foam shocks? I'd like to find some shocks that'll give me my 3" of lift, full travel and not require such a costly maintenance.
Oof. Yeah, that's why I opted for 5100s. I don't want to service shocks like that. I am too lazy.
 
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Well, my front Icon shocks have started to leak again, time for a rebuild. Love the shocks but having to rebuild them every 15,000 miles at a cost of over $400.00/shock is truly annoying.
What's the service like on those Ironman foam shocks? I'd like to find some shocks that'll give me my 3" of lift, full travel and not require such a costly maintenance.

I'd be blown away if they needed a rebuild inside of 50K miles. I had them on our last GX and I was very happy with them.
 
I'd be blown away if they needed a rebuild inside of 50K miles. I had them on our last GX and I was very happy with them.
This is directly off their website: https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/I58647_REVE_6623.pdf
I guess I off road more than I though I did! 😝

BELOW ARE GUIDELINES BASED ON HOW YOU USE YOUR VEHICLE BUT YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY:
STREET USE:

• Send in for factory servicing every 40,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Remove any buildup of road salt, mud, or debris from shocks and coil springs anytime accrued
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure yearly. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
STREET/DIRT:
• Send in for factory servicing every 15,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change, offroad trip, or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure each dirt outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
DIRT USE:
• Send in for factory servicing every 1,000 miles.
• Check nitrogen pressure each outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Remove any buildup of mud or debris from shocks and coil springs after every outing.
 
This is directly off their website: https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/I58647_REVE_6623.pdf
I guess I off road more than I though I did! 😝

BELOW ARE GUIDELINES BASED ON HOW YOU USE YOUR VEHICLE BUT YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY:
STREET USE:

• Send in for factory servicing every 40,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Remove any buildup of road salt, mud, or debris from shocks and coil springs anytime accrued
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure yearly. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
STREET/DIRT:
• Send in for factory servicing every 15,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change, offroad trip, or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure each dirt outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
DIRT USE:
• Send in for factory servicing every 1,000 miles.
• Check nitrogen pressure each outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Remove any buildup of mud or debris from shocks and coil springs after every outing.

To be clear here I am talking about Ironman Foam Cell Pros haha. Icons suck!

I had damn near 40K on mine when I sold it and they were no where near ready to be rebuilt. That doesn't mean that wouldn't have changed in the 5-10K following that but all in all I was very happy with them and would seriously consider buying them again.
 
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I mean, they are race shocks with spherical bearings so that's all what I expect.

I love Icon, had their upper A Arms on my 85 5 lug for an extended travel setup that was comical. I just have to wait until I am out of the rust belt and have a different daily.
 
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Oof. Yeah, that's why I opted for 5100s. I don't want to service shocks like that. I am too lazy.
Do you mean Ironman 5100 shocks and struts?
 
This is directly off their website: https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/I58647_REVE_6623.pdf
I guess I off road more than I though I did! 😝

BELOW ARE GUIDELINES BASED ON HOW YOU USE YOUR VEHICLE BUT YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY:
STREET USE:

• Send in for factory servicing every 40,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Remove any buildup of road salt, mud, or debris from shocks and coil springs anytime accrued
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure yearly. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
STREET/DIRT:
• Send in for factory servicing every 15,000 miles or if a leak develops, ride quality decreases, or they begin to make excessive noise.
• Clean with mild soap and water with each oil change, offroad trip, or anytime you notice build up.
• Wax the cylinders yearly with automotive wax to prevent corrosion.
• Check nitrogen pressure each dirt outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Check bearings for excessive wear yearly.
• DO NOT apply any type of lube to the upper and lower bearings.
DIRT USE:
Send in for factory servicing every 1,000 miles.
• Check nitrogen pressure each outing. (252004 charge needle assembly available at any ICON distributor)
• Remove any buildup of mud or debris from shocks and coil springs after every outing.

WTF. I don't want any part of that life. LOL
 
Do you mean Ironman 5100 shocks and struts?
Bilsteins got all 4 for just under 600. They are a 2" monotube with rubber bushings. Also extended travel. The 6Ks are a 2.5" solution with custom springs and rubber bushings.
 
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~30K on my Ironman FCPs and they are going as strong as Day 1. I use them hard towing.

Icons do ride better on pavement IMO. Ironmans ride great on rough unpaved roads and can be rebuilt at home. But you will miss that Icon plushness on your local streets.
 

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