R12 Freon - Shipping and Refill
- Thread starter pumbaatx
- Start date
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I work for a different parts supplier, although we carry Denso products and many others.
The company above is based out of Phoenix and took over the business when the former owner was killed. I don't know if they're still honoring the prices shown, they basically are using the format I set up several years back.
You can vacuum test the system if the clutch is bad (assuming the front seal is ok) but remember that vacuum pulls things together, pressure pushes them apart, but if it holds for an hour or so, you should be good.
Should anyone want/need advise on A/C problems or parts, I am the buyer for Merle's Automotive Supply in Tucson. My direct number is 520-620-9519 or email: rscofield@merlesauto.com
I will say this, I was running it max last week with re-circulation on and it was slightly cooler outside, Seems my box is not draining as well as I would like. I need to look at that and see if I make it better.
Anyways R12 and it suddenly (well over a bit of time I guess) suddenly was blowing less and less, still cold but less.
Turned out I froze the box to the point there was a small layer of ice on the outside. R134 never seen that!
Took re-circulation off and cleared up in about 1 hour.
R12 gets that cold!
Anyways R12 and it suddenly (well over a bit of time I guess) suddenly was blowing less and less, still cold but less.
Turned out I froze the box to the point there was a small layer of ice on the outside. R134 never seen that!
Took re-circulation off and cleared up in about 1 hour.
R12 gets that cold!
Got mine from Rock Auto and Toyota Directly. The expansion valve from Toyota is better than what Rock Auto had.
The o-rings were o-rings and the Evap core was a also a Denso.
Denso 4780101 is the right dryer for R12.
At the time I picked up one of their last Condensers (denso as well)
Everything bolted up and installed as expected No leaks.
The only thing I took a gamble on was the compressor. I picked their Various Manufacture one, Turned out to be the correct Denso version.
I chose them as I did not know about the group above and everything was in stock and ready to ship.
On this in the hose to the condenser, mine was fused solid. Steel to Aluminum or something like that and it was done.
As I replaced everything on mine with the exception of the hoses (I flushed these) since it was empty, but still sealed oddly enough.
I used a inexpensive Vacuum pump to make sure everything was resealed and good to go. Then filled the system (wear good leather gloves) per the manual OFF, not running. Filled to the required pressure, Left the gauges on and started up checked and again all was good and worked perfectly.
I bought R-12 freon some time ago (still in R134A timeframe) anyway the freon showed up at my door by ups. Had to be shipped UPS ground and as I recall there was some rule about the recipient having a A/C certification or license. What rules might be in play at present time I'm not sure....FYI
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
We’re you allowed to accept it or did you get smack?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Do you have any idea on current R12 pricing? Neighbor had a A/C repairman out a while back and talking to him he claimed R12 pricing was way down and now it's R22 that is pricey. Now sure if it's different sold thru stationary equipment parts houses verses automotive parts stores. I'm retired but still have my universal card for stationary equipment. Still have R12 around but wouldn't mind have more. Still running R22 in my FJ62 and one of these years may need more than a top off once every decade.
The price of R12 has seems to have stabilized over the past few years. Demand is down-fewer cars using it. I think Craigslist is the best source, I usually see it between $25 and $35 a can. It's usually $50+ in parts stores.
the rule about the license was from the vendor (the place I bought it from), not UPS. Far as I know UPS was only concerned about it be ground only. Again this was a few years ago.
Rules are per EPA
From here Refrigerant Sales Restriction | US EPA
The sales restriction is established by EPA regulations (40 CFR Part 82, Subpart F) under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. Only EPA-certified technicians are allowed to purchase ozone-depleting substances (ODS) used as refrigerants. Technicians may be certified under either the Section 608 or Section 609 technician certification programs. Starting on January 1, 2018, the requirements discussed on this page will also apply to most substitute refrigerants, including HFCs.
- Thread starter
- #31
So this may be a hard question to answer without actually seeing whats happening, but I'll try to describe as best I can.
I put a vacuum on my system this morning. First thing I noticed was that the low side of the compressor was missing its cap. When I connected the gauges, the low side let out a small hiss, which leads me to believe that this side is actually holding some pressure. At this point, I'm pretty sure my compressor is probably fried given that this also likely means it was run dry. Oh well, I was planning on replacing everything anyways. I turned on the vacuum, opened the gauge valves, and let pressure build on the low side to 29 lbs. Then I closed the valves and turned off the vacuum, and within 30 seconds or so, I had lost nearly all vacuum. So this leads to my actual questions...
I put a vacuum on my system this morning. First thing I noticed was that the low side of the compressor was missing its cap. When I connected the gauges, the low side let out a small hiss, which leads me to believe that this side is actually holding some pressure. At this point, I'm pretty sure my compressor is probably fried given that this also likely means it was run dry. Oh well, I was planning on replacing everything anyways. I turned on the vacuum, opened the gauge valves, and let pressure build on the low side to 29 lbs. Then I closed the valves and turned off the vacuum, and within 30 seconds or so, I had lost nearly all vacuum. So this leads to my actual questions...
- If I intend to replace the compressor and clutch, the drier, the condenser, and the evap core, am I going to be wasting my time and money, or is the leak likely in one of these 4 parts?
- If I do go through with swapping out all the major components and I still cant hold pressure, what else is entailed in getting the system going, in work and cost?
- Should I pressurize the system beforehand and do a soapy water test? Or different test?
- Thread starter
- #32
Well I feel a bit silly after my last update. As suggested by Rex, I did a soapy water test on my system from the condenser going through the full circuit of fittings and hoses. Basically with my gauges hooked up to the compressor, I pressurized the system with an air compressor and squirted a 50/50 mix of car wash and water on the outside of all A/C parts and fittings. I didn't see any bubbles whatsoever - weird given how fast I had lost vacuum. The system was also holding the pressure... As far as I can tell, the hose fittings on my gauges weren't tightened well enough when I tested everything last week. I vacuumed the system again, and this time no issues. Vacuum held for over an hour.
So next steps, I know I need a new compressor, as the idler is locked up.
So next steps, I know I need a new compressor, as the idler is locked up.
- Should I just get a whole new compressor?
- Sounds like everyone says to do the drier?
- If I'm already in this deep, its only ~$150 more to get a new condenser, evap core, and expansion valve while I'm at it. Should I just do everything, including all new o-rings?
If you are going to open the system, the common sense approach is to replace the dryer. If I were going to work on a truck that old and could buy a new denso compressor then thats what I would do (entire assembly). Condenser has seen many miles .... basically the rest is budget based but from a common sense approach it does make sense to replace a number of those things if you are going to have to open the system anyway.
I always find this interesting.
I redid my AC last year. Had I not be doing an engine swap this winter, i would expect to recharge this in 5-10 years.
I bought tires at the same time. I expect these to last 3-4 years max before I need to replace them.
Tires 5 total $900 mounted.
AC about $600 and it is a once and do it again a LONG time from now.
Now tires are a safety thing, yes I could buy cheaper tires, but I could buy more expensive tires.
AC the price is about even and is also a safety thing. Had I not had AC in the 60 this weekend, I would have passed out at a feel like 112 outside.
Moral of the little story, Do the whole system and do it once. Just careful with the condenser hose as it may be fused in place.
Other than that it really is a simple job.
Look for @Aloha Jen s post on how to install the Evap box. You do not need to take the entire dash apart.
Filling it is also easy, The FSM has procedures for engine off and engine on. I did mine engine off and it was perfect.
I redid my AC last year. Had I not be doing an engine swap this winter, i would expect to recharge this in 5-10 years.
I bought tires at the same time. I expect these to last 3-4 years max before I need to replace them.
Tires 5 total $900 mounted.
AC about $600 and it is a once and do it again a LONG time from now.
Now tires are a safety thing, yes I could buy cheaper tires, but I could buy more expensive tires.
AC the price is about even and is also a safety thing. Had I not had AC in the 60 this weekend, I would have passed out at a feel like 112 outside.
Moral of the little story, Do the whole system and do it once. Just careful with the condenser hose as it may be fused in place.
Other than that it really is a simple job.
Look for @Aloha Jen s post on how to install the Evap box. You do not need to take the entire dash apart.
Filling it is also easy, The FSM has procedures for engine off and engine on. I did mine engine off and it was perfect.
- Thread starter
- #35
These are tight. I undid several of these bolts last week. I gave a few smacks on the bolt head with punch and they loosened without issue.
been a while but most systems only take ounces and not lbs he should be ok
- Thread starter
- #39
I have pounds left over from my granddad's mechanic days. All good!
was replying to another post but messed up somewhere your good to go
